Shrockworks and winch

jstim

New member
So, I am new here. I have a 97 SR5 that I just got my hands on. I am going to do a complete build on it, so I am pretty stoked. I do have some questions for you guys that have been running your 4Rs for a while. I am completely stoked for the Shrockworks front, rear and sliders I will be ordering here soon, but heres the questions, and I appreciate all the input. I scoured this forum pretty regularly. I will post pictures all the way through the build as soon as I get it started.

1. What winch with synthetic cable is coming most recommended with the shrockworks?(warn, smittybuilt, ironman, any others)

2. I read a lot on the SS 1.2 lift kit, but whats the consensus Toytec BOSS or SS 1.2? (Think lots of overlanding, trails, whatever else I can drive it through.)
 
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I have the shrockworks f/r bumpers and sliders on my truck.

I have a warn m8000s and mounted the control box/solenoid under the hood and use the wireless remote to control it. The winch fits perfectly in the front bumper.

There are however many other winches that will fit it just fine that's just what I have and know works great.

As far as your lift goes I don't have either. I'm sure someone else will chime in on your choices.

What tire size do you plan to use?

You also mentioned overlanding a lot. In that case carrying a lot of gear in the back I'd recommend building/piecing together a lift to suit your needs. Like several others I am using OME 861 springs in the rear to better handle the extreme weight of all the gear, tools, fridge, so on and so on.

Welcome! And you'll love those bumpers!
 
The Toytec Boss kit is awesome. Great kit for on and off-road. I'm running the superflex real coils with the bilstein 5100's and it handles my added weight in the rear perfectly.
 
I had been looking at the Warn winch. Most of what I have read says, you get what you pay for, spend the extra 2-300 bucks and buy the warn. As the Overlanding goes....I am a backpacker too, so over time I have become a minimalist. Most of the added weight is my dog....lol. I keep a tent, most times I carry my hammock and sleeping bag, and a cooler, oh cant forget the Jetboil. I dont go ANYWHERE without that. I want to run a 285/75/16 on the lift. It doesnt sound like there is any rubbing with that. Maybe Cooper Discovery STT, or General Grabber? I live in NC, lots of sand, and aggressive tread needed, but frequent the Vegas area......
 
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I hear that lol. Backpacking got me into the 4runner to reach trails I wanted to start hiking from which ultimately led me to develop a big interest in overlanding as a way to explore larger areas and ones without good water access for my purifier. And well driving over stuff is fun.

My pack weight for backpacking is minimal as well but if you take a vehicle further out than a tank of gas allows and to an area with minimal water for extended periods you'll also be carrying more fuel and water. If you are also driving to areas that help is hard to come by its wise to carry gear that can fix up both you and the vehicle if a situation occurs.

If you are trying to get to trails and backpack from there that's awesome. If you are trying to live out of your 4runner for extended periods way out in nowheresville than gear needed to take a care of the truck becomes much heavier than the gear needed to take care of yourself.

In no way do I mean to sound like a lecture lol. My tent is under two pounds and I've spent more time and money on gear to elliminate meere ounces in my pack than I care to admit too. Just when a vehicle comes along for the long haul things get a lot different depending on the time and distance travelled.

Anywhoo! Have you considered the Goodyear duratrac?
Are you going to get the shrockworks rear with or without the swingout?
 
Nah, I hadn't considered the Duratrac. I am always open to suggestions. And I am with you. I shed ounces wherever possible. Living in Alaska for all that time turned me into an REI addict.

Yes, most definitely getting the swing arm. I know from my living in AK, if you are off road, and a tire goes, you may not be able to get underneath it to get to it.
 
255/75/17 duratracs,

Most overlander type guys prefer the tall skinny's when it comes to tires. That size comes in at 32" and weighs something like 45 pounds ( double check the weight at tire rack).

As far as shrockworks, I think you will be very happy with them, besides the wait time I hear no other complaints about the products they build. I don't recall, but are the sliders bolt on? If so you might want to weld instead.

I'm a firm believer in trying to cut cost when doing upgrade and additions to the rig. However, I spare no dime on items that are life saving, such as brakes, and winches, get the best you can afford. Sleep better at night knowing that if you get stuck out in BFE, that your winch won't crap out on you. Not to say the other winches will, but WARN is tried and true product.

Everybody has an opinion, decide what will be best for you and read up an build threads that have the products you are looking to get PM other members, ask how they feel about said product. I'm sure you will find members are more then willing to help.

Good luck, and welcome!
 
I keep my pack in my 4Runner, loaded and ready for any occasion!

With that being said, it sounds like your probably running lots of solo trips far off the beaten path. Which also means that your going to want your winch to work when you need it because its likely your only out!

Like mentioned above, the warn m8000 is pretty much our standard for these trucks. Great bang for your buck and isnt any less or any more than you'd need. They come standard with steel cable, but if you want to save weight you can swap it out for synthetic line, which we can also get for you in multiple colors and thicknesses.

I'm in the early stages of experimenting with OEM lift components (Land Cruiser Coils and Tundra Struts/springs), but if you wanted a quick kit I wouldn't hesitate to suggest Toytec. I have installed a few of their kits and have been impressed with the product and ride quality of their coil-overs and other suspension components.
 
I went with Sonoran steel 1.2
I just like the idea of being ale to get most parts from the dealership less the re valued shocks. But I think that was one of the early kits.
Call Steve tell him what you want to do and he will dial you in.

That being said I have shrockworks front and sliders.
The wait time it well worth it. It's been approx 5-6 years and may trips and only the powder coat is showing its age around where they cut in their logo, and that's after bouncing of rocks, a few trees, and some light water crossing. Also shrockworks will work with you on small details. Mines again was a early one they added contoured brush protection over the lights. I was doing a lot of remote camping and felt more comfortable with extra protection from errant branches.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/136914-pics-shrockworks-front-bumper.html

Also if your budget can handle it do the tundra brake up grade when you do your lift, you will have everything off and you will need to bleed the system anyways since you will be extending the rear brake line.

Lastly I wish I went with the warn m8000s, I have a 9000xp and sits in the garage because of the added weight. 73 vs 87 might not seem like a lot but with the bumper and all it rakes a bit with out lots of gear in the back.

I think loudrunner seen my set up, I got to the meet after his lift was installed.
 
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I too like the thought of being able to call someone and get the parts I need when I need them, if I need them. It is really too bad that BDS doesn't make a kit for the 4R. They have some of the most awesome stuff out there. Yeah, I am looking at the M8000S. That might possibly be the route I go.... I just hope the front coilovers on whatever I get will take the weight and handle it well. I would like to try to keep the 4R level if possible too. Things in due time. I did email Steve, gave him the rundown of what I plan on doing with it, what it is, and what I am putting on it. Once I get back to the states, I will start a thread with the build on it. Its going to be AWESOME! Hey anybody know if the bajarack will open with the sunroof?

Oh, and whats all the hub hub about that Tundra brake kit? I have read that the e-brake doesn't work with it or something....I am going to do a big brake kit up front, need some more stopping power with all the weight.

Maybe someday......I get a D4D and wedge it in there.....heres to dreaming
 
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I went with Sonoran steel 1.2
I just like the idea of being ale to get most parts from the dealership less the re valued shocks. But I think that was one of the early kits.
Call Steve tell him what you want to do and he will dial you in.

That being said I have shrockworks front and sliders.
The wait time it well worth it. It's been approx 5-6 years and may trips and only the powder coat is showing its age around where they cut in their logo, and that's after bouncing of rocks, a few trees, and some light water crossing. Also shrockworks will work with you on small details. Mines again was a early one they added contoured brush protection over the lights. I was doing a lot of remote camping and felt more comfortable with extra protection from errant branches.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/136914-pics-shrockworks-front-bumper.html

Also if your budget can handle it do the tundra brake up grade when you do your lift, you will have everything off and you will need to bleed the system anyways since you will be extending the rear brake line.

Lastly I wish I went with the warn m8000s, I have a 9000xp and sits in the garage because of the added weight. 73 vs 87 might not seem like a lot but with the bumper and all it rakes a bit with out lots of gear in the back.

I think loudrunner seen my set up, I got to the meet after his lift was installed.


You can shave some weight off of your winch you have by swapping to synthetic line. The winch doesn't have to come with synthetic line to run it. We sell it separately as well as aluminum fairleads.

You can drop about 20 lbs loosing the steel cable and roller fairlead.
 
Tire size

So this might be a dummy question...which you will have to excuse. The last few days my brain hasnt been working right. So I originally was thinking 285/75/16...be doing a bit of overlanding etc. But with all the sand around me, and time I will be on the beach. Since its so close in size, does anyone think I will get any rubbing with the 305/70/16?
 
So this might be a dummy question...which you will have to excuse. The last few days my brain hasnt been working right. So I originally was thinking 285/75/16...be doing a bit of overlanding etc. But with all the sand around me, and time I will be on the beach. Since its so close in size, does anyone think I will get any rubbing with the 305/70/16?

Air down the 285's properly and you'll do just as well in the sand as the 305's.
 
So this might be a dummy question...which you will have to excuse. The last few days my brain hasnt been working right. So I originally was thinking 285/75/16...be doing a bit of overlanding etc. But with all the sand around me, and time I will be on the beach. Since its so close in size, does anyone think I will get any rubbing with the 305/70/16?

Also just to clarify I bet either size will rub without taking time to clearance the front wheel wells. 265/75R16 seems to be the largest you can go without moding to prevent rubbing.
 
Also just to clarify I bet either size will rub without taking time to clearance the front wheel wells. 265/75R16 seems to be the largest you can go without moding to prevent rubbing.

Oh mods are coming, going to order the SS 1.2...that way I can get an additional 3 inches up. I cant do anything right now as I am stuck in the mountains...
 
Oh mods are coming, going to order the SS 1.2...that way I can get an additional 3 inches up. I cant do anything right now as I am stuck in the mountains...

You misunderstand. A suspension "lift" is not going to gain you any clearance. This is a common misconception, but unless you space down the bump stops to limit up travel tires will rub the same amount on 3" of lift as they do on 0". To prevent rubbing you must grind, cut, pound etc. or install a body lift to get clearance for larger tires.

A suspension lift that does not relocate bump stops simply changes ride height. It may keep larger tires from rubbing at ride height but will do nothing once the suspension starts to cycle. Fenders should be "clearanced" with no struts installed so you can check for interference at full bump.
 
You misunderstand. A suspension "lift" is not going to gain you any clearance. This is a common misconception, but unless you space down the bump stops to limit up travel tires will rub the same amount on 3" of lift as they do on 0". To prevent rubbing you must grind, cut, pound etc. or install a body lift to get clearance for larger tires.

A suspension lift that does not relocate bump stops simply changes ride height. It may keep larger tires from rubbing at ride height but will do nothing once the suspension starts to cycle. Fenders should be "clearanced" with no struts installed so you can check for interference at full bump.

ahhh good point sir......good point....
 
Anymore recommendations for winches that fit in the Shrockworks?

It's a standard 10" x 4.5" mount so any winch should fit. Just plan on relocating the control box and get one you can afford. I went with an Engo 12K for my Relentless bumper and it's been rock solid. I

After I clocked it the free spool lever actually fit outside the access hole which was a huge bonus. I can access everything without having to try and cram my hand in a small hole. The only thing I had to modify to make it work was grinding about 1/4" off the backside of the lever. It fits so tight against the bumper it acts as it's own stop. I'll get you a close up photo if you can't make it out in my Trails thread.
 
It's a standard 10" x 4.5" mount so any winch should fit. Just plan on relocating the control box and get one you can afford. I went with an Engo 12K for my Relentless bumper and it's been rock solid. I

After I clocked it the free spool lever actually fit outside the access hole which was a huge bonus. I can access everything without having to try and cram my hand in a small hole. The only thing I had to modify to make it work was grinding about 1/4" off the backside of the lever. It fits so tight against the bumper it acts as it's own stop. I'll get you a close up photo if you can't make it out in my Trails thread.

Nice, looking at Warn, Comeup & Superwinch.
 

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