Simple Improvements to JBL MultiDisk System?

[TeryT]

I've read through several threads on people who didn't like the JBL 10 speaker system. I'm not that unhappy with it, although it could be better. I've played extensively with the settings, and can usually get it to sound halfway decent (sweetest spot is actually in the back seat).:guitar2: :violin:

Because of the complexities of changing this factory system, it seems like either simple changes, or ripping the whole thing out & starting over are the only/best solutions.

Someone suggested installing a resister or a volume control on the center surround dash speaker . Is this possible & has anyone done it? I do find myself wishing I could tone this speaker down some - plus it seems like it robs power from other speakers.

So maybe we could consolidate some of the various ideas that's been floating around to improve this system - but I'd really like to use the KISS principle here, or do nothing at all. :hello:

 

[Chris_in_Boise]

I agree...that center speaker is ridiculous.

I hated it so much that I disconnected my center speaker altogether. :bash:

You need to unsolder the leads from the back of the speaker, but it's pretty easy because you don't need to disassemble your whole dash to do it. Just pop the speaker grill out and you have access to the speaker.

Afterwards, you need to completely re-tweak your bass and treble settings.

I did it when I got my 4Runner about two years ago, and I've been SO much happier with the sound.

BTW, I left the center speaker in place and plugged my CB radio's aux output into it. Now it has a useful purpose in life!

 

[TeryT]

So Chris - Is the sound now still surround, but just without the center speaker? In other words, when you switch between surround on & off - does it sound different?

 

[Chris_in_Boise]

Sure, the surround mode still works.

But (if I recall correctly) I don't have it turned on because I think it "colors" the music too much. I'm more of a purist who wants to hear what the artists originally intended.

However, to each his own.

If you're going to perform the speaker-lobotomy operation, let me know and I'll provide you with all my JBL stereo settings so that you can try them as a starting point afterwards.

I remember it sounded mighty strange at first after I disconnected the center speaker, but after some tweaking, I was able to get a fairly pleasant sound.

The stereo is still a rip-off and doesn't sound as good as an average mid-range car stereo, but that's just our lot in life.

 

[TeryT]

I think I might be more interested in installing something to control the volume of that center speaker. Ideas?

 

[sharp4runr]

Wow, I like the center channel but I'm not a huge audiophile like you guys seem to be.

 

[RXvedub]

all you need is a potentiometer from radio shack. install it under the dash, do the tweakin you want then tuck it away out of site.


By the way, you can use that spot for a navigation powered speaker if you want to get rid of it completly, all you need to do is to figure out how to mute the sound system when it speakes

 

[TeryT]

all you need is a potentiometer from radio shack. install it under the dash, do the tweakin you want then tuck it away out of site.

Why tuck it away? So as not to void the warranty possibly? I was thinking of runing the control down to the dash or center consol.

 

[RXvedub]

Why tuck it away? So as not to void the warranty possibly? consol.

I am big on modifing while still looking stock, thats why I want to replace the factory sub but keep it there, and trying to put the after market sub in the factory nav location and ordering the cover for it.

I do alot of installs on after market stuff for work and all the switches and knobs dont look cleen to me.

Maybe you can use a second factory light dimmer switch???

Thats all

 

[TeryT]

A 2nd factory light dimmer!? I'm there. Think that will work?

I want to keep it stock looking too if at all possible.

But I still maintain that to get the best sound out of this unit - sit in the back seat! LOL

 

[RXvedub]

But I still maintain that to get the best sound out of this unit - sit in the back seat! LOL

Why dont you fade ir to the rear to get more of the back sound forward?

 

[TeryT]

Why dont you fade ir to the rear to get more of the back sound forward?

Yup - tried every setting there is on that thing - still nothing sounds nearly as good as sitting in the back seat!

You pick up the mid-ranges, the woofer & the rear tweeters best there, and it sounds awesome & completely surround.

 

[TeryT]

I agree...that center speaker is ridiculous.

I hated it so much that I disconnected my center speaker altogether. :bash:

You need to unsolder the leads from the back of the speaker, but it's pretty easy because you don't need to disassemble your whole dash to do it. Just pop the speaker grill out and you have access to the speaker.

Afterwards, you need to completely re-tweak your bass and treble settings.

I did it when I got my 4Runner about two years ago, and I've been SO much happier with the sound.

BTW, I left the center speaker in place and plugged my CB radio's aux output into it. Now it has a useful purpose in life!

I wanted to thank you for this advice! It was easy to get to. I picked up a 25 ohm potentiometer at RS, and it works, but is a little big. I'm trying to find another one.

Bottom line is this is a great fix for the sound. I drove home tonight enjoying the stereo much more now that that center speaker wasn't blaring so much. It's nice at about an additional ohm or two of resistance - there but not screaming.

 

[wkparker]

TeryT, I'm not sure about the impedance of the center speaker, but if it is 4 or 8 ohms and now the amp sees a 25 ohm load, sooner or later you may cook the amp. You really need something that changes the volume while showing the amp a constant load - like the in-wall volume controls for whole-house audio systems. Little big for a T4R if you want to be able to access it, though.

 

[TeryT]

TeryT, I'm not sure about the impedance of the center speaker, but if it is 4 or 8 ohms and now the amp sees a 25 ohm load, sooner or later you may cook the amp. You really need something that changes the volume while showing the amp a constant load - like the in-wall volume controls for whole-house audio systems. Little big for a T4R if you want to be able to access it, though.

Thanks. That is one reason I want a switch that doesn't go as high. If I can't find one, I would set it only at the minimal range - say 2-3 ohms. This reduces the volume pretty well. I'm told these speakers are 2 ohm, so the most the amp would see is around 5.

Does that sound OK? What about just leaving the speaker disconnected (which would be the 2nd best option)?

 

[Chris_in_Boise]

I say pull the plug completely on that evil spawn of a speaker!

I did and haven't regretted it for a minute.

 

[TeryT]

You guys are f@cking retards. That is so dam stupid.

Oh yeah!? Well my 4Runner can beat your 4Runner! LOL :twak: So your brilliant suggestion is _______ ?

Actually, found out that the higher the resistance the better, i.e., you just don't want the amp seeing a lower resistance - that would add load (I knew that, but it's been too long since I worked all those basic electronics formula in class!).

 

[TeryT]

Solution to center speaker

Here's what I wound-up doing with the center speaker, which seems the simplist way to improve this system.

After searching around several stores, I installed a 0-25 ohm, 3 watt potentiometer. I couldn't find one that fit in the nice little accecsory switch pop-outs (pots that will handle some wattage are larger), so I drilled a hole in the bottom of the dash, where it looks like something should be anyway. (I'll try to add a pix later.)

To cut back the brightness of this center speaker, you only need about 2- 4 ohms resistance. If you just wanted to do that, Radio Shack carries 10 watt 1 ohm resisters that you could series together. I also experimented with several of these resisters and SPDT switches - which would fit in the pop-outs. Eventually I decided on installing the 0-25 ohm pot where it is, even though it's not as accessable as a switch would be.

(If you can find a low resistance pot with a longer stem, then you could make one of these work in the pop-outs, but you would have to construct a bracket of some sort.)




The pot knob is just to the right of the brake controller (red button) in an indentation that looks like it was made for a switch or sumptin. The close up is (obviously) in the 2nd pix.