Skid Plate Bolt Replacement

[FrothyLlama]

Hey guys,
I'm sure this has been posted on the forum but Tapatalk search doesn't seem to do me much justice. I'm missing a bolt on the front of my front skid plate on my 2006 V8 and sometimes my skid will vibrate and make funky sounds, does anyone have the part number or specs for the bolts?
TIA

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[y=mx+b]

Hey guys,
I'm sure this has been posted on the forum but Tapatalk search doesn't seem to do me much justice. I'm missing a bolt on the front of my front skid plate on my 2006 V8 and sometimes my skid will vibrate and make funky sounds, does anyone have the part number or specs for the bolts?
TIA

The front skid plate bolts are m8x1.25, and so are the tank skid bolts if you ever need those too. Not sure on dealer PN, but I replaced with stainless from ACE and lathered in antiseize. I've had no issues with galling threads

 

[JH225]

Yep, M8x1.25 and 30mm long.

The stock bolts are very soft, and they are self starting so you can screw up the threads on both the bolt and the nut VERY easily. If you’re replacing one, I would replace them all. Stainless or just stronger bolt material is nice.

If you wanna really solve the problem: buy an M8x1.25 tap and run it in and out of each bolt hole to clean the threads before putting in each new bolt.

- if the threads are already stripped and there’s no bolt stuck in the hole, then run the M8 tap through to clean up the threads.

- bolt sheared off in a hole? Get a fresh set of drill bits and start small. Eventually you are going to drill out the entire bolt diameter and then keep going. Step up to an M10x1.25 or M10x1.50 tap and retap the threads (M10 uses an 11/32 drill bit). Then replace with M10 bolts.


Last time I crawled under my rig I had some crossed threads and one sheared bolt, so last weekend I went through and swapped everything to class 10.9 M10x1.25 (ace didn’t have an M8 tap and it was Sunday morning). Took me 90 minutes at Sunday morning pace drill and tap all skid plate bolts. Total cost of ~$30. Never going to be a problem again.


To reiterate what was said above: use thread anti-seize and NOT thread locker.


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[FrothyLlama]

Yep, M8x1.25 and 30mm long.

The stock bolts are very soft, and they are self starting so you can screw up the threads on both the bolt and the nut VERY easily. If you’re replacing one, I would replace them all. Stainless or just stronger bolt material is nice.

If you wanna really solve the problem: buy an M8x1.25 tap and run it in and out of each bolt hole to clean the threads before putting in each new bolt.

- if the threads are already stripped and there’s no bolt stuck in the hole, then run the M8 tap through to clean up the threads.

- bolt sheared off in a hole? Get a fresh set of drill bits and start small. Eventually you are going to drill out the entire bolt diameter and then keep going. Step up to an M10x1.25 or M10x1.50 tap and retap the threads (M10 uses an 11/32 drill bit). Then replace with M10 bolts.


Last time I crawled under my rig I had some crossed threads and one sheared bolt, so last weekend I went through and swapped everything to class 10.9 M10x1.25 (ace didn’t have an M8 tap and it was Sunday morning). Took me 90 minutes at Sunday morning pace drill and tap all skid plate bolts. Total cost of ~$30. Never going to be a problem again.


To reiterate what was said above: use thread anti-seize and NOT thread locker.


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Thanks! The threads are fine, not sure how they managed to lose the bolt. Luckily all my other bolts came out easy a month ago when I did my oil change.

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[FrothyLlama]

Got it at home depot guys, thanks.
For future reference for anyone who looks this up, the M8x1.25x25mm fits perfect.

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