Anyone know of any pictures or videos on how to remove the front skid plate on a 2008 limited V8? Is it 2 pieces? I can't seem to find any youtube videos specific to a 4runner. I am trying to change the left front cv axle due to a torn boot and and I want to be able to get at the front differential fill and drain plugs. Not sure if I am able to see them without removing it. Or if anyone has any better ideas. Any help would be most-appreciated.
Skid Plate Removal 4th generation
- Thread starter dmccarthy
- Start date
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Start soaking the nuts/bolts in you favorite rust buster such as PB Blaster as you research. They tend to be rusted. I am considering using stainless steel bolts. Definitely use antiseize when reinstalling.
it is a two piece, rear and front. I believe there are 6 total bolts, 2 rear, 2 middle, and 2 front. Front of the skid has hooks so it doesn't fall as you remove the middle bolts.
it is a two piece, rear and front. I believe there are 6 total bolts, 2 rear, 2 middle, and 2 front. Front of the skid has hooks so it doesn't fall as you remove the middle bolts.
Says the guy who recently said "And if you love maintenance of miscellaneous fluids, lubricants and misc greases, an AWD T4R is heaven....well if it wasnt for those damm skid plates !
Why rip someone who askes a question? That what this forum is for, to get good answers, not critisism. Lighten up.
Unless your vehicle is lifted, it helps a lot to run it up on ramps so you can get your whole head under there to see where the bolts are. The rear bolts on the front skid plate are recessed and pretty tough to figure out the first time unless you can look straight up at them.
As was said, there are hooks at the front of the front plate to hold it up. I usually remove the front bolts first and let the hooks support it, then remove the rear bolts and take it off.
You'll definitely want the front skid plate off to change the CV axle. I'd plan on doing the seal where it goes into the transfer case as well. Otherwise you'll likely get to do the job twice - spoken from experience.
As was said, there are hooks at the front of the front plate to hold it up. I usually remove the front bolts first and let the hooks support it, then remove the rear bolts and take it off.
You'll definitely want the front skid plate off to change the CV axle. I'd plan on doing the seal where it goes into the transfer case as well. Otherwise you'll likely get to do the job twice - spoken from experience.
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Also, after you have removed your skid plate bolts, you might want to tweak them:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/32297-skid-plate-bolts.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/32297-skid-plate-bolts.html
There are actually 8 bolts. The 4 bolts for the rear plate are independent of the 4 for the front plate.
I rate the skid plats as annoying, but to be puzzled by their installation and removal....? It is a bolt in a hole, maybe we should tell the guy to turn it counter-clockwise too.
Honestly not ripping the guy, just giving my advice. Was it wrong to assume his skill level...maybe, you know what they say about assume-ing. I do enjoy the irony of a guy bi tch ing about a guy bi tch ing telling a guy to lighten up.
wadle5
New member
Still bitc*ing I see. . . . :lalala:
adkfinn
Member
Fellow New Englander here. Aerokroil is your friend.
https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA
This stuff is way better than PB Blaster (my old go-to penetrant) and soaking a couple of times per day for a few days in advance will go a long way towards making this easier. Once you do get everything apart, I would suggest chasing the threads with a tap and die kit and would urge you to consider never seize on the threads for the re-install. Other than that, like others have said, get under there and get at it. The attachment for the skids is not complicated and it should be an intuitive process once you get started. HTH, good luck!
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Maybe it could have been worded better, but I would agree with cautioning the OP about tackling a CV axle if he's concerned about how to remove the skid plates. Since he has a V-8, the front skid has to come off to change the oil filter*. Since he's unfamiliar with removing the skid, that tells me he's never changed his own oil on the 4R.
*Unless the OP is sometimes known as Plastic Man. You'd need PM like abilities to change the oil filter from the top on a 2UZ 4R. :cheers:
*Unless the OP is sometimes known as Plastic Man. You'd need PM like abilities to change the oil filter from the top on a 2UZ 4R. :cheers:
CommanderZol
New member
Just changed my oil and filter with the skid plate stuck on.
Had to squeeze my arm in through the driver side wheel well but it got the job done!
Didn't realize there was more than the front two bolts and the truck was on the ground so that skidplate wasnt going anywhere.
Now that I know better I will be removing all eight bolts and replacing them with stainless steel ones asap. Salty NE winters are cancerous.
