Slider Install - Rocker Panel Pinch Weld

[TonyB66]

Didn't see this via search...

I currently have some time to do some test-fitting of the Stubbs HD-SKO sliders that finally arrived.

Did any of you trim the underside of the body or pinch weld running along the rocker panel to allow the support bars to go a little higher? If so, by about how much?

These sliders have four support bars per side. I'm going to mark those spots and look carefully before I break-out the grinder. Figured I'd ask here before I do so.

Thanks!

 

[JZiggy]

Didn't see this via search...

I currently have some time to do some test-fitting of the Stubbs HD-SKO sliders that finally arrived.

Did any of you trim the underside of the body or pinch weld running along the rocker panel to allow the support bars to go a little higher? If so, by about how much?

These sliders have four support bars per side. I'm going to mark those spots and look carefully before I break-out the grinder. Figured I'd ask here before I do so.

Thanks!

Hey Tony,

I have these exact sliders on my truck. I did not have to trim the pinch weld but kept the sliders about 3/8" away (I think thats what it was). The position seemed perfect to me. Here's the page on my thread about it:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2795286-post117.html

 

[TonyB66]

Hey Tony,

I have these exact sliders on my truck. I did not have to trim the pinch weld but kept the sliders about 3/8" away (I think thats what it was). The position seemed perfect to me. Here's the page on my thread about it:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2795286-post117.html

Thanks much for the input, especially since you also have the same sliders.

Jackable jack stands once again, really nice to have.

Doing the 3/8" gap too. Had some scrap wood trim that I taped onto all four legs, which I think can be seen here.

In this current state, the rear door clears by at most 3/16".

I'm feeling that it's not worth the hassle for such minimal gain, and that I won't do any trimming...

From the link you provided, with your scab plates at the bottom of your frame rails, the confirms what I currently have.

That's the Lil' Skip's gas tank skid right next to where that scab will be burned-in. I'll lower it a little when these get welded-up...

What was your approach with respect to front/rear positioning? I'm looking at access to various fasteners, as an example...

 

[calnhob]

Tony,

Are you planning to weld it on yourself? If so, what kind of welder are you going to use?

Also, I didn't see the cost of the HD-SKO on their website.

Sliders are my next upgrade.

 

[TonyB66]

Tony,

Are you planning to weld it on yourself? If so, what kind of welder are you going to use?

Also, I didn't see the cost of the HD-SKO on their website.

Sliders are my next upgrade.

Haven't welded in over 20 years, and I was poor back then! So, I secured a local weldor on the 26th, for this and the PCK.

That said, I'm in the market for a welder, likely a Hobart 190 Handler...

The price was $355 and shipping was only 40 bucks. That said, UPS made for some excitement, and the driver's side slider arrived with a big dent, as can be seen above (middle of door). Richard is upset as he knows it takes a heck of a shot to make that happen, even intentional, possibly. Richard offered to reimburse me if I decide to have the weldor address it. Not sure I'll want to hassle with it as I plan to sand these (400 grit), then a self-etching primer, another sanding, then paint...

 

[calnhob]

That's a pretty good price for the quality.

Wonder if he'd do a group buy...:eyebrows: or if he'd weld it on if you drive up there.

 

[JZiggy]

Haven't welded in over 20 years, and I was poor back then! So, I secured a local weldor on the 26th, for this and the PCK.

That said, I'm in the market for a welder, likely a Hobart 190 Handler...

The price was $355 and shipping was only 40 bucks. That said, UPS made for some excitement, and the driver's side slider arrived with a big dent, as can be seen above (middle of door). Richard is upset as he knows it takes a heck of a shot to make that happen, even intentional, possibly. Richard offered to reimburse me if I decide to have the weldor address it. Not sure I'll want to hassle with it as I plan to sand these (400 grit), then a self-etching primer, another sanding, then paint...

It's just free battle damage

Richard sure is a good guy to deal with and his product is excellent.

 

[JZiggy]

Since I have SR5 flares my sliders tucked in very snugly between them. That was how I determined front-back placement.

 

[TonyB66]

That's a pretty good price for the quality.

Wonder if he'd do a group buy...:eyebrows: or if he'd weld it on if you drive up there.

I doubt very much on the GB. He uses quality US steel, and is damn proud of that; and of the reasons I chose his product. He's busting his butt now with orders.

It's just free battle damage

Richard sure is a good guy to deal with and his product is excellent.

Since I have SR5 flares my sliders tucked in very snugly between them. That was how I determined front-back placement.

I'll second that! A high quality product, competitive price and top-notch support. What else is there?!

Ah, I see. With a Limited, it's different... I'll pick a spot, trace around the scab plates, then replicate on the side. Thanks!

 

[T4topher]

Didn't see this via search...

I currently have some time to do some test-fitting of the Stubbs HD-SKO sliders that finally arrived.

Did any of you trim the underside of the body or pinch weld running along the rocker panel to allow the support bars to go a little higher? If so, by about how much?

These sliders have four support bars per side. I'm going to mark those spots and look carefully before I break-out the grinder. Figured I'd ask here before I do so.

Thanks!

I know we don’t have the same sliders but jerry from BAMF did end up trimming the bottom of my front flares just a tiny bit but he didn’t touch the pinch weld. Let me know if you want a picture.

 

[twitchee2]

I have those same sliders, I love them. My just let my pinch welds self clearance. been there for 10 years, no issues.

 

[TonyB66]

I know we don’t have the same sliders but jerry from BAMF did end up trimming the bottom of my front flares just a tiny bit but he didn’t touch the pinch weld. Let me know if you want a picture.

Thanks for chiming-in.

Richard makes these based upon the trim package and said that no cutting would be needed on the fenders. I can now confirm that is accurate. Thanks for asking.

Clamped them up to make sure the scab plates are flush to the frame. Can't do so on the rear two legs due to the gas tank...

To help with welding day positioning and to aid in replication on the other side...

Traced the scab plates with a Sharpie.

The day before these get welded, I'll remove paint on and around the traced scab plate lines...

Just realized that this is not my maintenance/build thread! Need to stop for the day as we are going to some Chinese dance show. Drat. Thanks for the help.

 

[TonyB66]

I have those same sliders, I love them. My just let my pinch welds self clearance. been there for 10 years, no issues.

Just saw your post. Another happy Stubbs customer!

Richard recommended not having the slider welded such that it's touching the pinch weld. I guess it will bang a lot. He recommended 3/8 to 1/2" spacing.

 

[phattyduck]

Just saw your post. Another happy Stubbs customer!

Richard recommended not having the slider welded such that it's touching the pinch weld. I guess it will bang a lot. He recommended 3/8 to 1/2" spacing.

The body and frame are mounted together with rubber bushings. Depending on body/frame flex, there could be a fair amount of movement there.

I was waiting for the 'self clearance' comment though. :madgrin:

-Charlie

 

[twitchee2]

Just saw your post. Another happy Stubbs customer!

Richard recommended not having the slider welded such that it's touching the pinch weld. I guess it will bang a lot. He recommended 3/8 to 1/2" spacing.

Correct, I have about that much spacing but it does flex into the pinch weld. I just didn't clearance for that.

Regardless, you are going to have an awesome setup. I actually welded some extra gussets on the 90* of the plate and outrigger for a little extra support.

 

[theesotericone]

I welded mine with 3/16" clearance off the pinch welds. Since then they've taken some extremely hard hits on the rocks and by another car. They "self clearanced" by about another 3/16" I'd say 3/8" is more then enough Unless you plan on really wheeling your rig hard. If that's the case trim the pinch welds also.

How the hell did UPS manage to ding Richards sliders? I've had them on many many hard hard miles of dirt and I only managed to put one dent in them. To say they're tough is an understatement. Looks like you'll have to come out and play on the rocks with me one day so you can put one on the other side. I think symmetry is important. lol

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Didn't see this via search...

I currently have some time to do some test-fitting of the Stubbs HD-SKO sliders that finally arrived.

Did any of you trim the underside of the body or pinch weld running along the rocker panel to allow the support bars to go a little higher? If so, by about how much?

These sliders have four support bars per side. I'm going to mark those spots and look carefully before I break-out the grinder. Figured I'd ask here before I do so.

Thanks!

My local fab guy that did the welding for my Stubbs sliders suggested clearancing the pinch weld along the rocker panel before he burned everything in to account for the flex between the body and frame. Instead of cutting the pinch weld, he used vice grips and bent it up and in towards the frame to keep the pinch weld seam as structurally sound as possible. I have a photo on my phone but the damn attachment feature isn’t working at the moment and I gave up with Photobucket a while ago.

 

[Mighty Buffalo]

My local fab guy that did the welding for my Stubbs sliders suggested clearancing the pinch weld along the rocker panel before he burned everything in to account for the flex between the body and frame. Instead of cutting the pinch weld, he used vice grips and bent it up and in towards the frame to keep the pinch weld seam as structurally sound as possible. I have a photo on my phone but the damn attachment feature isn’t working at the moment and I gave up with Photobucket a while ago.

The guy that welded mine on did the same thing. He said just from the rubber body mounts it could chatter against the pinch seam, so he just took an angle grinder and knocked it down.

 

[thenightman]

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3189392-post158.html

I am one of the few that did clearance the pinch weld. I just made incisions, and pounded sections of the steel about 2.5" long where the legs go flat. I did not cut it off, as I did not want to have to reweld those areas. I did cut off plastic there, and elsewhere in the area so I could fit the sliders higher. I definitely think it was worth it for 1/2" of ground clearence, that's the same clearance as having 1/2" more lift, or jumping up to a 1" taller tire.

Also, I would definitely add a gusset at the frame. Give it some thought while you are at Shen Yun.

 

[TonyB66]

I welded mine with 3/16" clearance off the pinch welds. Since then they've taken some extremely hard hits on the rocks and by another car. They "self clearanced" by about another 3/16" I'd say 3/8" is more then enough Unless you plan on really wheeling your rig hard. If that's the case trim the pinch welds also.

How the hell did UPS manage to ding Richards sliders? I've had them on many many hard hard miles of dirt and I only managed to put one dent in them. To say they're tough is an understatement. Looks like you'll have to come out and play on the rocks with me one day so you can put one on the other side. I think symmetry is important. lol

Good info that confirms that 3/8" is likely the way to go. Richard is quite upset about several shipping experiences with UPS. My sliders came late, and on the same day as Roy's (Savage) bumpers. The UPS truck couldn't hold the stuff, so they had a rental truck to carry everything. For a dent like that, the force had to be great. Would like very much to come down that way someday. My last Whitney climb was over 15 years ago...

My local fab guy that did the welding for my Stubbs sliders suggested clearancing the pinch weld along the rocker panel before he burned everything in to account for the flex between the body and frame. Instead of cutting the pinch weld, he used vice grips and bent it up and in towards the frame to keep the pinch weld seam as structurally sound as possible. I have a photo on my phone but the damn attachment feature isn’t working at the moment and I gave up with Photobucket a while ago.

The guy that welded mine on did the same thing. He said just from the rubber body mounts it could chatter against the pinch seam, so he just took an angle grinder and knocked it down.

I like that approach, as opposed to cutting or grinding. Again though, I really can't go much more than 1/8" higher for rear door clearance. Do the Limited doors hang lower? If so, that might explain some things....

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3189392-post158.html

I am one of the few that did clearance the pinch weld. I just made incisions, and pounded sections of the steel about 2.5" long where the legs go flat. I did not cut it off, as I did not want to have to reweld those areas. I did cut off plastic there, and elsewhere in the area so I could fit the sliders higher. I definitely think it was worth it for 1/2" of ground clearence, that's the same clearance as having 1/2" more lift, or jumping up to a 1" taller tire.

Also, I would definitely add a gusset at the frame. Give it some thought while you are at Shen Yun.

Keith thanks for the link with photos. I see that you have a Limited also. Maybe your sliders don't angle upward as much as these. No way I can go that high without impacting the rear door...

As for gussets, I spoke with Richard about that, and he is not a fan, at least with these frames. We had a very long phone conversation the first time we spoke, like 2 hours long. Best to ask him directly, but I seem to recall him saying that the slider should be the weak link. Allow it to be the fail point (bend). He has seen over-engineered sliders overwhelm frames and cause serious damage. He's a very knowledgeable guy, and super friendly too...

You nailed it - we saw Shen Yun. Our youngest fell asleep. At 100 bucks a seat, not exactly a good feeling.