Slip Yoke Binding Fix

mtbtim

mtbtim

Elite Member
I bought my 2000 4runner a couple years ago and it always had that occasional weird thump or clunk coming to a stop or rolling from a stop. I really thought it could be just the transmission finally finding first gear but now I'm thinking different. This subject has been covered on multiple forums and many people believed it was a case of the slip yoke binding as the suspension compressed on a stop and then as the suspension would decompress the slip yoke would unstick and give you that clunk feeling like somebody rear-ended you.

I have greased that slip yoke zerk fitting multiple times but my theory is the grease was never getting back far enough in the slip yoke to prevent the binding. I decided to finally do something about it and just take the slip yoke off, grease the crap out it and put it back together. I drove around the neighborhood doing multiple hards stops and I haven't been able to recreate the clunk. So, I think taking the slip yoke off and greasing it really well might be the solution for some of you out there that have been experiencing the same thing with their 4runners.

The bolts that attach the driveshaft to the differential are on there pretty good. I'm glad I had an impact gun to make it much easier to take apart. I made a video of the repair and I hope it helps somebody out. I was solo so I was relying that I had the camera on my head pointed right. I think the video came out pretty good and I hope to do a better job on the next one.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how I can do a better job in the future, please comment and suggest away.

Here's a link to the video I uploaded to YouTube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKX5UeE2Txs
 
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mtbtim said:
I bought my 2000 4runner a couple years ago and it always had that occasional weird thump or clunk coming to a stop or rolling from a stop. I really thought it could be just the transmission finally finding first gear but now I'm thinking different. This subject has been covered on multiple forums and many people believed it was a case of the slip yoke binding as the suspension compressed on a stop and then as the suspension would decompress the slip yoke would unstick and give you that clunk feeling like somebody rear-ended you.

I have greased that slip yoke zerk fitting multiple times but my theory is the grease was never getting back far enough in the slip yoke to prevent the binding. I decided to finally do something about it and just take the slip yoke off, grease the crap out it and put it back together. I drove around the neighborhood doing multiple hards stops and I haven't been able to recreate the clunk. So, I think taking the slip yoke off and greasing it really well might be the solution for some of you out there that have been experiencing the same thing with their 4runners.

The bolts that attach the driveshaft to the differential are on there pretty good. I'm glad I had an impact gun to make it much easier to take apart. I made a video of the repair and I hope it helps somebody out. I was solo so I was relying that I had the camera on my head pointed right. I think the video came out pretty good and I hope to do a better job on the next one.

If you have any comments or suggestions on how I can do a better job in the future, please comment and suggest away.

Here's a link to the video I uploaded to YouTube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKX5UeE2Txs
Click to expand...

Nice video. I dig the view from the head mounted camera.

I've been contemplating doing this as well. My 97 gets a clunk if I don't keep greasing about halfway between every oil change. That gets old quick. So I've been considering pulling it and giving a good cleaning and re-greasing to see if it can go a while longer without clunking again.
 
I've been doing it this way for a while now. I usually do it every 10k~ miles and haven't had a clunk in a long time. It is easy enough at that interval and is well worth it. I never really liked how much pressure the grease would put into the driveshaft, basically trying to extend the shaft, and it also wouldn't allow the suspension to work as effectively. After greasing, I remove the zerk and go to full compression of the shaft to remove all the extra grease to avoid the pressure buildup. No faults found in this method so far! I always use the molybdenum grease at that location as well.

Cheers!
 
Nicely done. I too get the clunk. I lube the driveshaft, and it is better. But I still get it. I hadn't even considered taking the dang thing apart. Might be doing that this weekend!
 
Well, I hate to say it but the bump feeling is still happening. I thought I might have pumped to much grease into the slip yoke after reassembling the driveshaft, so I removed the zerk fitting, jumped up and down on the bumper and escaped some of the excess grease. Driving my rig today, the symptoms returned.

My next course of action is to examine the transmission mount. One of the members on the forum had similar symptoms and it ended up his transmission mount was bad along with a motor mount. So, the next time I get a chance to work on my rig, I'm going to pull the trans mount and take a good look at it to see if the rubber is still affixed to both sides of the mount.

I still think taking the slip yoke off and greasing it is a good idea because I don't believe the yoke gets lubricated well enough with that zerk fitting at the back of the yoke.
 
mtbtim said:
Well, I hate to say it but the bump feeling is still happening. I thought I might have pumped to much grease into the slip yoke after reassembling the driveshaft, so I removed the zerk fitting, jumped up and down on the bumper and escaped some of the excess grease. Driving my rig today, the symptoms returned.

My next course of action is to examine the transmission mount. One of the members on the forum had similar symptoms and it ended up his transmission mount was bad along with a motor mount. So, the next time I get a chance to work on my rig, I'm going to pull the trans mount and take a good look at it to see if the rubber is still affixed to both sides of the mount.

I still think taking the slip yoke off and greasing it is a good idea because I don't believe the yoke gets lubricated well enough with that zerk fitting at the back of the yoke.
Click to expand...

Will you take pictures of this process? I suspect this what's happening to mine.
 
allwheeldrive said:
You are on the right track! What type of grease did you use. You may just need to use a different grease for the splines.
Click to expand...

I just used an all-purpose moly type grease I bought at O'Reilly. If someone has an actual brand and name of a good grease they like for this application, please chime in.
 
4Runner4TW said:
Will you take pictures of this process? I suspect this what's happening to mine.
Click to expand...

Yes, at the very least I'll take photos. But, I'll probably video the process with a GoPro mounted on a head strap. I'll post it back on this thread. So, in case I forget to get back to you personally, subscribe to this thread so you will be guaranteed to be notified when new posts are made.
 
mtbtim said:
I just used an all-purpose moly type grease I bought at O'Reilly. If someone has an actual brand and name of a good grease they like for this application, please chime in.
Click to expand...


There was a driveline type grease that is a Ford product if I remember correctly that we used at work for a long time. Seemed to work good. It's pretty thick and is literally smurf blue in color. After a quick Google search, looks like Ford xg-8 was the one. It may not be blue anymore, but is used for the same problem we have with our trucks.
 
allwheeldrive said:
There was a driveline type grease that is a Ford product if I remember correctly that we used at work for a long time. Seemed to work good. It's pretty thick and is literally smurf blue in color. After a quick Google search, looks like Ford xg-8 was the one. It may not be blue anymore, but is used for the same problem we have with our trucks.
Click to expand...

Thanks for researching the grease for the slip yoke. Going to order some from Amazon and give it a go.

Here's the link to the Amazon page:http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-Fluid-XG-8-Lubricant/dp/B000NU77DA

Read some of the reviews. They're explaining the same symptoms we're experiencing on our trucks.
 
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Excellent video. Good to actually see the yoke apart. Had the same thumping noise on my 98 when I first bought it last year. Like you I cleaned the yoke sleeve where it entered the drive shaft and gave it a few shots of grease every time I was under the rig and it freed up after a few months. Noise went away. You are on the right track, start looking at the drive train.
 
Thanks to [MENTION=75799]allwheeldrive[/MENTION] suggestion, I got some Ford XG-8 grease, pulled the slip yoke again, cleaned it up really good and re-greased it.

I did a test drive and so far so good. No bump feeling coming from the rear end.

I'll report back after I get some more miles on it to see how this repair is holding up.

Here's a link to a YouTube video showing the job:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jyltxe2nPEg
 
4Runner4TW said:
Just watched the second video and seems very easy and straight forward. Was wondering if you had an update?
Click to expand...

Yes, I do. Took my 4runner from San Jose to Lake Tahoe and back, approximately 500 miles and no symptoms anymore. Time will tell how long this fix lasts. It's my theory that just greasing the zerk fitting is not enough to prevent the binding. I know some people are packing a lot of grease into the slip yoke to cause driveshaft movement. While this may be the way enough grease is making it's way to the upper splines, it's taking up space that the slip yoke needs to move when the suspension compresses. I don't know if this will actually cause any other problems other than possibly a harsher ride in the rear due to the packed slip yoke hindering the suspension movement, but I have heard it can cause undo pressure against the transfer case causing problems.

I think pulling the slip yoke, lubing it up really good and re-installing it will be just another preventative maintenance thing I do on my truck. One member said he does it every 10,000 miles. If this fix last 10,000 miles, I'll be stoked.

I believe the Ford XG-8 grease is the part that makes this repair work. I don't think other greases will have the same results, at least it didn't for me. If you're going to do it, clean up all the old grease out of there first like I did.

Hope it works for you too.
 
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