Slip Yoke Binding Fix

Oh, you're _that_ Tim.

I've been watching your videos since I started wrenching on the 4runner I got not long ago.

Keep up the great work!
 
Oh, you're _that_ Tim.

I've been watching your videos since I started wrenching on the 4runner I got not long ago.

Keep up the great work!

Glad you're liking the videos. On many occasions, I'm using information I obtained from write-ups and videos from others to figure out these repairs. Owning the Factory Service Manuals has been a valuable resource as well. I'm just trying to do a better job of documenting everything so it's easier for people to do the repair themselves.
 
Ok Dudes, I have an update on this whole Slip Yoke Binding phenomena. I got rid of the rear end clunk, bump, thump, however you want to describe it but it came back.

To maintain the slip yoke lubrication, I went back to injecting grease into the zerk fitting every so often and I think this was a big mistake. In my opinion, greasing the slip yoke via the zerk fitting is a waste of time and can cause you problems. When you inject grease to the slip yoke, the grease doesn't really get everywhere you need it to be. It's only lubricating the lower part of the splines and the grease never makes it up to the upper part of the splines.

Now, where it becomes a problem is if you pack too much grease in there. If the bottom of the slip yoke is full of grease, it somehow causes the slip yoke to to give you that rear end thump also. I realized this yesterday when I pulled off my slip yoke once again to investigate why my rear end thump has returned. The splines looked to be lubricated sufficiently because I pulled it apart not too long ago and re-greased it, but the lower part of the slip yoke was full of grease. So, I just took a long screwdriver and scooped up grease on the bottom of the yoke and redistributed it up along the female splines. I put the yoke back onto the driveshaft with the zerk fitting removed. I pushed the female yoke onto the male splines and bottomed it out to make sure the yoke could achieve full travel. The reason to remove the zerk fitting is you're giving the pressure somewhere to go as you slide the female yoke onto the male splines of the driveshaft.

So, what I'm trying to impart to you guys is I've found the clunk can be caused by a couple things. One, the yoke isn't sufficiently lubricated and it's binding and unbinding causing the rear end clunk. Two, additional pressure created by having too much grease in the yoke can also cause the rear end clunk.

I know it's widely accepted that people just give a few squirts of grease into the sip yoke and call it good but I know from having the slip yoke apart many times that a few squirts of grease in there is not going to properly lubricate the splines. Then, there's some that just pack a shit ton of grease into the yoke, drive it around for a while and then remove the zerk fitting and jump up and down on the rear bumper to expel excess grease. I tried the jumping up and down method but I believe you still can end up with too much grease in the yoke which I've learned first hand isn't good.

If you actually read all that, I'm impressed. I vomited out quite a bit there. Moral of the story is lubricate the slip yoke by taking it apart and using the special Ford grease and not to over-grease the yoke. The zerk fitting's purpose now is just to act as a plug to keep water and dirt out.
 
Ok Dudes, I have an update on this whole Slip Yoke Binding phenomena. I got rid of the rear end clunk, bump, thump, however you want to describe it but it came back.

To maintain the slip yoke lubrication, I went back to injecting grease into the zerk fitting every so often and I think this was a big mistake. In my opinion, greasing the slip yoke via the zerk fitting is a waste of time and can cause you problems. When you inject grease to the slip yoke, the grease doesn't really get everywhere you need it to be. It's only lubricating the lower part of the splines and the grease never makes it up to the upper part of the splines.

Now, where it becomes a problem is if you pack too much grease in there. If the bottom of the slip yoke is full of grease, it somehow causes the slip yoke to to give you that rear end thump also. I realized this yesterday when I pulled off my slip yoke once again to investigate why my rear end thump has returned. The splines looked to be lubricated sufficiently because I pulled it apart not too long ago and re-greased it, but the lower part of the slip yoke was full of grease. So, I just took a long screwdriver and scooped up grease on the bottom of the yoke and redistributed it up along the female splines. I put the yoke back onto the driveshaft with the zerk fitting removed. I pushed the female yoke onto the male splines and bottomed it out to make sure the yoke could achieve full travel. The reason to remove the zerk fitting is you're giving the pressure somewhere to go as you slide the female yoke onto the male splines of the driveshaft.

So, what I'm trying to impart to you guys is I've found the clunk can be caused by a couple things. One, the yoke isn't sufficiently lubricated and it's binding and unbinding causing the rear end clunk. Two, additional pressure created by having too much grease in the yoke can also cause the rear end clunk.

I know it's widely accepted that people just give a few squirts of grease into the sip yoke and call it good but I know from having the slip yoke apart many times that a few squirts of grease in there is not going to properly lubricate the splines. Then, there's some that just pack a shit ton of grease into the yoke, drive it around for a while and then remove the zerk fitting and jump up and down on the rear bumper to expel excess grease. I tried the jumping up and down method but I believe you still can end up with too much grease in the yoke which I've learned first hand isn't good.

If you actually read all that, I'm impressed. I vomited out quite a bit there. Moral of the story is lubricate the slip yoke by taking it apart and using the special Ford grease and not to over-grease the yoke. The zerk fitting's purpose now is just to act as a plug to keep water and dirt out.

Your story Tim is almost exactly what I found to be true. If you use the zerk fitting, it does nothing but build up grease at the bottom of the yoke. I removed mine and manually brushed it on the splines. I believe this is the best way to keep it lubricated.

The zerks on the ujoints can still be greased like normal.
 
Mr. Toolman

Andy L. here from the great 2017 1st gen taco free wheel hub build party.

I also have the proverbial drive line clunk in a 2000. have also messed around with different idea's for lubing it.

I'm actually starting to think 1 of 2 things and maybe both?

#1 the "Sleeve Yoke" is worn? FSM does mention it but... kind of vague on details.
#2 not sure about you but I have 3" of lift on my rear. so I'm thinking... maybe the lift brings the "Sleeve Yoke" out enough so any wear on it now is enough to cause the clunk to be much worse.

I might try and replace the "Sleeve Yoke" and see what happens, if that does not fix it... thinking drive line spacer to get back into spec length because of the lift.

what do you think?
 
Your story Tim is almost exactly what I found to be true. If you use the zerk fitting, it does nothing but build up grease at the bottom of the yoke. I removed mine and manually brushed it on the splines. I believe this is the best way to keep it lubricated.

The zerks on the ujoints can still be greased like normal.

1, 2, or 3 inch brush?

Horsehair or synthetic?

Wooden or plastic handle?
 
Zerk Fitting

Can anyone who has disassembled the slip yoke, fully cleaned, and re-lubricated with Ford XG-8 PTFE grease, recommend if the zerk fitting should be installed after the yoke has been fully compressed and then expanded back to its neutral position? I am wondering if it is better to have the zerk fitting installed to keep out water/dirt, or leave it off so no pressure builds up. Has anyone experimented with other devices connected to the zerk fitting threads that allows it to breath, but still keeps out water/dirt? Kind of like the differential breather.
 
So I'm reading a bunch of possible fixes for this thud noise that sounds like the back of my truck is falling off. I've only had it happen 2 times to me in the 40k miles I've been driving it but it's freaking me out and I'm guessing that this slip yoke deal is the problem. Yea I can grease a zerk all day and drop the shaft and pack it in also but is that really going to fix the problem and is it going to get worse later down the road even with the greasing?

Couple questions..

So I've read in some other forums and post that here has been a "campaign" (recall) that involves a replacement driveshaft, but the issue persists. What these post say is that toyota is working on a 2nd replacement, and will be another "campaign."

Question is, has anyone heard of Toyota actually replacing this or is it just a bunch of run around? I worked at a service writer for a dealer here in the Colorado Springs area and you can get Toyota to bend on their manufactured defective parts but sometimes it takes a push. I know cuz when I worked there, the customers pushed me around and I had to push Toyota around and they do come through sometimes but has anyone on here ever got a free call toyota replacement drive and what's the verbage I should be using?

Hoping I can get Toyota to swallow a driveshaft(gulp), and fix what they manufactured wrong.

Thankfully I have a Yota master tech that still works there that he can look up tsb's and campaigns for me and get the inside scoop.

Please comment what you know and I'll respond what my Yota tech guys say.

Thanks
 
You need to figure out the problem first before you try getting toyota to replace a driveshaft that may be perfectly fine.

Now given the thud that you are hearing, it is entirely possible that your slip yoke just needs to be greased. If you can turn a wrench, it's really simple to do it.
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has a video on exactly how to do it and what causes it. I would honestly start there. 45 minutes of your time and you may never hear that thud again. I would get an occasional clunk from the drive shaft and since I properly cleaned it/grease it, I have never heard it since.

while you are under there, see if any of the Ujoints have play in them.

PS. Do not just pump a ton of grease in the zerk fitting on the slip yoke, it will just make it worse.
 
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Hoping I can get Toyota to swallow a driveshaft(gulp), and fix what they manufactured wrong.
You think that Toyota has any responsibility for a ~20 year old part that has been on a working vehicle this whole time? Wear and tear is a real thing, and they aren't responsible for it.

It might be your slip yoke, it might be sticking rear brakes, it might be something else. As others have said, figure out your problem before throwing money at random parts.

-Charlie
 
Excellent video. Good to actually see the yoke apart. Had the same thumping noise on my 98 when I first bought it last year. Like you I cleaned the yoke sleeve where it entered the drive shaft and gave it a few shots of grease every time I was under the rig and it freed up after a few months. Noise went away. You are on the right track, start looking at the drive train.

https://youtu.be/Jyltxe2nPEg

Posted a video above. Just wanting to make sure this is what the thud you guys are referring to. I'm having a bang, thud, pop, boom.. but not that many. Just once every so often. I've had it happen twice since I got it 40k miles ago but had it happen 3 times since after 150k.. And I bought it at 113k. Thankf for the input but I'm about to invest in some grease!
 
So..

After dropping the axle, and cleaning and greasing, that seemed to be the fix. Haven't had the issues since and it's been a few weeks I think. Real easy fix that a trained monkey can do. So he'll yea. Thanks for the info and yea, Tim's video helped tremendously.

As far as the slip yoke/driveshaft campaign, there is no longer anything in Toyota Tsb's that says anything about this, if they ever did.. who knows. But for now, that seems to be the fix for the thud, and it's been smooth sailin.

Thanks for the tips and stuffs.
 

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