Small Utility Camping Trailer?

One wheel bearing might need to be addressed as I sense a slight wobble. He was asking $1k. Got it for a few hundred less...

Never bought a trailer before. DMV-wise in CA, what do I need to do? Oh, it has a "permanent" plate or PTI (permanent trailer identification), if that makes any difference...
If you got a title with it, it should be easy. Just like any other title transfer. Without the title (bill of sale) it will still be easy, just a bit slower. This is when you should have a AAA membership... so much shorter lines!

As for the wheel bearing. It should be easy. Take off the wheel, remove the cotter pin and hub nut, pull off hub. Check bearings for wear. If they are good, just repack and *almost* snug the hub nut and put the cotter pin back in. There should be the tiniest detectible play in the bearing when preloaded correctly. If not good, replace the parts that are worn and repack the same way. There are plenty of sources online for the parts you need, like etrailer.com.

-Charlie

PS. PTI trailers still cost $10 every 5 years. Not a big deal, just an FYI.
 
If you got a title with it, it should be easy. Just like any other title transfer. Without the title (bill of sale) it will still be easy, just a bit slower. This is when you should have a AAA membership... so much shorter lines!

As for the wheel bearing. It should be easy. Take off the wheel, remove the cotter pin and hub nut, pull off hub. Check bearings for wear. If they are good, just repack and *almost* snug the hub nut and put the cotter pin back in. There should be the tiniest detectible play in the bearing when preloaded correctly. If not good, replace the parts that are worn and repack the same way. There are plenty of sources online for the parts you need, like etrailer.com.

-Charlie

PS. PTI trailers still cost $10 every 5 years. Not a big deal, just an FYI.

Thanks much Charlie.

I did receive a State of California Certificate of Title with the purchase. I was somehow under the impression, possibly mistakenly, that this can be done online, as opposed to a DMV visit, or AAA for those who have such.... Maybe I should call the DMV.

I was advised to check-out etrailer.com by the seller and others, so I will make it a point to do so! If not that expensive, I'll likely get new bearings for each wheel.

EDIT / ADD: Some baseline photos...

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One of the first things I plan to do is remove the aluminum decking and wire brush some of the rust (hopefully not much) and then use Corroseal, which is also a primer. Top coat will simply be Rustoleum flat black (rattle can, multiple). Before I do any of that, I want to come-up with a rack idea, something for a RTT (thinking iKamper), but also that will accept 8x4 foot sheets (plywood, drywall, etc.). Thinking of some creative fold-down tabletop surfaces of each side as well. I might go pick-up some scrap steel to practice welding. It has been 20+ years, and I wasn't exactly good then...
 
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Looks like a great base to start from. Investigate getting matching bolt pattern hubs to the 4Runner so you can 'share' wheels/spares. Are you planning on making a lid for it? If not, make sure you use well sealed containers. It'll get dusty back there!

Edit: New matching hubs (6x5.5") with everything you need, $37 each! https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/etrailer/AKIHUB-655-35-K.html

-Charlie

Charlie, that's awesome! One of my favorite posters on this forum because you are super knowledgable, and also so willing to share and help, proactively even. Thanks much.

That's exactly what I want to do, and the seller had done that also (swap-able wheels between his rig and this trailer). The bearings and matching 3rd gen 4Runner hubs, everything for both sides - about 75 bucks. Sweet. $24 shipping though... If I can exceed 99 dollars, I get free shipping. Anything else I should consider?

Yup, I want a cover or lid and ideally one that works "well" with a rack. This guy seems to have found such a combo, but I can't tell what exactly what components he's referring to...

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/collection-of-trailer-builds.52549/page-36#post-2477664
 
Charlie, that's awesome! One of my favorite posters on this forum because you are super knowledgable, and also so willing to share and help, proactively even. Thanks much.

That's exactly what I want to do, and the seller had done that also (swap-able wheels between his rig and this trailer). The bearings and matching 3rd gen 4Runner hubs, everything for both sides - about 75 bucks. Sweet. $24 shipping though... If I can exceed 99 dollars, I get free shipping. Anything else I should consider?
:grouphug:

The next step up would be an axle with brakes, but that's a bit of $$$. Sounds like you will be keeping the trailer under 2k lbs, so that probably isn't really needed.

How are the trailer lights and wiring? Coupler? Bearing buddies? Spare tire mount? Hmmm...

-Charlie
 
:grouphug:

The next step up would be an axle with brakes, but that's a bit of $$$. Sounds like you will be keeping the trailer under 2k lbs, so that probably isn't really needed.

How are the trailer lights and wiring? Coupler? Bearing buddies? Spare tire mount? Hmmm...

-Charlie

Agreed, with expected loads, I don't think brakes will be needed.


The lights are adequate, look fairly new actually, but, as you can see, the tail lights might be prone to getting busted. Was considering a guard, or re-location...

I heard about bearing buddies, and it's on my list to learn more about, so I don't know if that's worth getting at this point.

How about an articulating hitch? I always thought those are pretty neat. And yes on the spare tire mount. I might hold-off on that a bit until I decide what size wheels and tires I go with later...
 
For those interested, I failed to mention that I called the DMV on Friday. I was on hold to speak with a rep for over 1.5 hours; and I think posted here during that wait...

Operator "Hope" said that they require title transfer to be within 10 days of purchase, I think business. The soonest appointment at my local DMV was not until 14 August though. She asked what I paid for the trailer and said that I can mail payment using a check, noting the trailer's license plate number on the check. So, that's what I'll be doing...

I will place an order at etrailer later today. Bearing Buddies look to be cheap insurance, and will get me over 100 bucks, for free shipping. In the cart:

https://www.etrailer.com/p-AKIHUB-655-35-K.html (qty 2)

https://www.etrailer.com/p-BB1980A-SS.html (qty 1)

EDIT/ADD: Purchased.

flOVMrR.jpg
 
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How about an articulating hitch?
Had some recent experience with this. I pulled my 4'x8' utility trailer loaded with firewood to the desert recently...

Two things to note with a regular hitch off road:
- If you grease the ball (good for on road noise and longevity) it will get RUINED off road. Grit/grim in there just eats up the ball and gums up the works. I will be using a dry/graphite lube from now on and live with the higher wear.
- It doesn't articulate worth a damn and can/will bend the coupler.

I only took it on a very mild access road to a dry lake bed (two other guys towed car trailers out there, one with a full-size and one with an RV). I could barely get the coupler off and it took a while to clean it enough to get it back together at the end of the weekend.

Most (all?) articulating couplers aren't road legal, but I wouldn't worry about it too much. They will be a bigger hassle to hitch up, but if you are driving anywhere where you will be articulating between the truck and trailer, you'll want one. It will also be better for dust/dirt/grime. I don't have a specific suggestion though, I don't really plan on doing tons of off-roading with my cheap utility trailer, at least, not yet.

-Charlie
 
even if you swap to matching hubs/wheels so you have the 6x5.5" bolt pattern I would suggest carrying a spare tire for the trailer.
Nice to be able to pull the spare from your truck to use on the trailer but sucks when you find out you need 2 spares and have one...
It has happened to me more than once
 
Had some recent experience with this. I pulled my 4'x8' utility trailer loaded with firewood to the desert recently...

Two things to note with a regular hitch off road:
- If you grease the ball (good for on road noise and longevity) it will get RUINED off road. Grit/grim in there just eats up the ball and gums up the works. I will be using a dry/graphite lube from now on and live with the higher wear.
- It doesn't articulate worth a damn and can/will bend the coupler.

I only took it on a very mild access road to a dry lake bed (two other guys towed car trailers out there, one with a full-size and one with an RV). I could barely get the coupler off and it took a while to clean it enough to get it back together at the end of the weekend.

Most (all?) articulating couplers aren't road legal, but I wouldn't worry about it too much. They will be a bigger hassle to hitch up, but if you are driving anywhere where you will be articulating between the truck and trailer, you'll want one. It will also be better for dust/dirt/grime. I don't have a specific suggestion though, I don't really plan on doing tons of off-roading with my cheap utility trailer, at least, not yet.

-Charlie

Good stuff Charlie.

After about 30 minutes of research/reading, I'm leaning toward the Max Coupler. Damn thing is nearly half the price I paid for the trailer. It's DOT certified:

Max Coupler - Adventure Trailers Store

even if you swap to matching hubs/wheels so you have the 6x5.5" bolt pattern I would suggest carrying a spare tire for the trailer.

Nice to be able to pull the spare from your truck to use on the trailer but sucks when you find out you need 2 spares and have one... It has happened to me more than once

You convinced me. Not that I wasn't, but some good insurance I admit. With some desirable and possibly expensive wheels, and a desire to match, it can get expensive I bet.
 
Good stuff Charlie.

After about 30 minutes of research/reading, I'm leaning toward the Max Coupler. Damn thing is nearly half the price I paid for the trailer. It's DOT certified:


What about a pintle hook? If I was building an off-road trailer that's the connection I would use. It'll be stringer then the neck of your trailer and has loads of articulation.

I'm waiting to see what you come up with for the RTT mount. Are you planning on leaving the RTT on full time?
 
Can you use AAA for the registration and title change?

Hey Brian, apparently that's the way to go for those who have AAA. I actually just finished my note to the DMV now. Will snap photos of everything before I send. Typical of me...

What about a pintle hook? If I was building an off-road trailer that's the connection I would use. It'll be stringer then the neck of your trailer and has loads of articulation.

I'm waiting to see what you come up with for the RTT mount. Are you planning on leaving the RTT on full time?

Matt, good to hear from you. Yes, the Pintle made the short list so-to-speak. I believe they are also called a Lunette. By quite a few accounts, they can be a bit on the loud side, to the point of even being a bit distracting for some. If the wife and kids were not along for the ride, I might have gone that route. I still might as I won't be making that purchase for a little while yet...

Seeing some ideas on what to do for a lid and rack... At the moment, something like this seems the most appealing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpC69r1Ozso

I will construct a "carport" for this trailer when I make one for the 4Runner. I plan to have a loft of sorts for the RTT (probably an iKamper) where it can be suspended up high and then lowered down onto the rack...

I'm very open to novel ideas for what type of lid to use and rack. The rack must be able to take 4x8 sheets. Something you can appreciate.
 
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Matt, good to hear from you. Yes, the Pintle made the short list so-to-speak.

The pintle will be loud. Since it floats in the collar anytime you stop and pull forward you'll here a slight clunk. That may be bothersome but the strength of that connection would outweigh the noise for me.

My best advice for setting up the rack and cover is just lay out what you plan on carrying and find a home for it. Worry about the rack connection last. You can use a drawer system, a hinged cover, a sliding cover(that may also double as a staging area) or a combo of all the above.

I'd look to get the RTT as low as possible and as centered over the trailer wheels as possible. With a few hours of thought you should have a pretty good idea of how you want to go. The execution on this sort of project is pretty easy once you have a real plan.

When I designed my storage/sleeping platform in my 88 van I spent days figuring out where things needed to be. What get's used most, least, what fits better here or there. Even with all that planning I still made small modifications for the next month till it was perfect for my use. I'm sure you'll find the same experience with the trailer. Plan it out and be prepared to make changes if it doesn't work the way you want.
 
The pintle will be loud. Since it floats in the collar anytime you stop and pull forward you'll here a slight clunk. That may be bothersome but the strength of that connection would outweigh the noise for me.

My best advice for setting up the rack and cover is just lay out what you plan on carrying and find a home for it. Worry about the rack connection last. You can use a drawer system, a hinged cover, a sliding cover(that may also double as a staging area) or a combo of all the above.

I'd look to get the RTT as low as possible and as centered over the trailer wheels as possible. With a few hours of thought you should have a pretty good idea of how you want to go. The execution on this sort of project is pretty easy once you have a real plan.

When I designed my storage/sleeping platform in my 88 van I spent days figuring out where things needed to be. What get's used most, least, what fits better here or there. Even with all that planning I still made small modifications for the next month till it was perfect for my use. I'm sure you'll find the same experience with the trailer. Plan it out and be prepared to make changes if it doesn't work the way you want.

Very sensible, logical.

I wish I could do as you explain, but I'm left to guess as gear-wise I'm so clueless what our family of four will need or want at this point. We have not had such an outing as of yet... I'll have to refine as I go.

I too thought of a sliding cover or lid. I like the concept and have not seen one yet. Whatever lid I decide upon, I'd prefer one that is removable, ideally easily. If I need to haul an appliance or make a dump run, I'd like to have open skies in the cargo box.

Also, I'm envisioning fold-down "tables" (think tailgate-like) on each side of the trailer. When not in use, they fold up toward the rack and secured, if that makes any sense. One side to be used for food prep, cooking, water for cleaning-up, and the like, and the other side for chow.
 
The pintle will be loud. Since it floats in the collar anytime you stop and pull forward you'll here a slight clunk. That may be bothersome but the strength of that connection would outweigh the noise for me.

My best advice for setting up the rack and cover is just lay out what you plan on carrying and find a home for it. Worry about the rack connection last. You can use a drawer system, a hinged cover, a sliding cover(that may also double as a staging area) or a combo of all the above.

I'd look to get the RTT as low as possible and as centered over the trailer wheels as possible. With a few hours of thought you should have a pretty good idea of how you want to go. The execution on this sort of project is pretty easy once you have a real plan.

When I designed my storage/sleeping platform in my 88 van I spent days figuring out where things needed to be. What get's used most, least, what fits better here or there. Even with all that planning I still made small modifications for the next month till it was perfect for my use. I'm sure you'll find the same experience with the trailer. Plan it out and be prepared to make changes if it doesn't work the way you want.

Matt, while working the grill, downing a few beers, I found myself staring at the trailer, as you said, postulating cover/lid ideas. I'm pretty sure I want to go with a sliding top. When pulled-out to the tailgate, I envision two drop-down, adjustable legs that makes for a 5x6 foot table. I'd like to source some heavy duty drawer slides, maybe something like this....

Heavy-Duty-Drawer-Slides-Long.jpg


If you, or anyone here, knows of a good source for drawer slides, or something comparable, please share.

This is not to be a personal trailer build thread per se, although I imagine I'll be using it somewhat in that fashion. I encourage others to use this thread to ask questions about such trailers and share their own trailer ideas and modifications...
 
Not high jacking here, but I'm kind of where you are. I just picked up a trailer for $300. The first time I posted pics, I was told it was an old M101 trailer but it was in the tall grass. I was also told to look for the Canadian Version since they already had 6 lug hubs and were built stronger.

Now getting it home and looking at it with a bit of research, I'm pretty sure it isn't. Maybe a imitation??

First thing that I noticed was it has slots for 2x4s on the side of it. Also, it has a tailgate where the military ones didn't seem to. And no hand brake.
I was looking for a plate anywhere on it with info but no luck. It looks like the tongue was rebuilt.

Anyone have any info on this type of trailer? I'm posting here, because I would love to get some ideas on building and this thread will be a good source, I believe.

20180817_200426 by psraff, on Flickr

20180817_200434 by psraff, on Flickr

Could it be just the normal run of the mill light weight trailer?
 
Not high jacking here, but I'm kind of where you are. I just picked up a trailer for $300. The first time I posted pics, I was told it was an old M101 trailer but it was in the tall grass. I was also told to look for the Canadian Version since they already had 6 lug hubs and were built stronger.

Now getting it home and looking at it with a bit of research, I'm pretty sure it isn't. Maybe a imitation??

First thing that I noticed was it has slots for 2x4s on the side of it. Also, it has a tailgate where the military ones didn't seem to. And no hand brake.
I was looking for a plate anywhere on it with info but no luck. It looks like the tongue was rebuilt.

Anyone have any info on this type of trailer? I'm posting here, because I would love to get some ideas on building and this thread will be a good source, I believe.

20180817_200426 by psraff, on Flickr

20180817_200434 by psraff, on Flickr

Could it be just the normal run of the mill light weight trailer?

Geez, not hijacking at all! That's exactly what I want to see and encourage here, as I stated above...

I like the size. Looks to be comparable to mine. And for 300 bucks, that's a good find! What do you know about the suspension? If you post these photos on one of the forums referenced in this thread, I'm guessing you'd find someone who knows what you have. I'd otherwise scour the trailer for any markings then search the web...

Any license plate on it, or is that even needed up there? Speaking of which, I got the meaning of your Runner license plate. Creative.
 
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Geez, not hijacking at all! That's exactly what I want to see and encourage here, as I stated above...

I like the size. Looks to be comparable to mine. And for 300 bucks, that's a good find! What do you know about the suspension? If you post these photos on one of the forums referenced in this thread, I'm guessing you'd find someone who knows what you have. I'd otherwise scour the trailer for any markings then search the web...

Any license plate on it, or is that even needed up there? Speaking of which, I got the meaning of your Runner license plate. Creative.

Thanks! There isn't a license plate on it, yet. There will be, but the previous owner never did, or did he have the title for it. I'm going to work on it a bit and then go to the DMV and say it's a homemade trailer and they will make a title for it.

I did search on it, but no plate or info at all. On the front, lower driver side, there appears to be two rivet holes, so I bet that's where the ID Plate use to be.

The suspension, is 7 small leafs, with grease zerk on each end. I'll post more pics to those other forums and return here with any info. I was thinking of going axleless suspension because I didn't think Toyota wheels would fit, but this morning, I took a wheel spacer out and test fit and I think they match up! So that could save me some money for now.

I want to get some tracing paper and print out these pics and put some ideas on paper. What's in my head doesn't always work out in real life. LOL
 

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