Snatch strap.

Times whatever on the ARB 17k snatch strap. I can't say if it's better than what else is on the market, but it'll do the job for sure. Don't ditch the static strap though - I carry a cheapo with hooks because sometimes there's not enough room for a kinetic recovery, and sometimes I'm recovering a vehicle that doesn't have anywhere to put a shackle. And sometimes you need to tow or be towed - snatch strap is no damned good for that.

I agree with the static strap. I've got one too and actually use it far more than the snatch strap as I'm mostly wheeling in rocks and only need an occasional tug off of a high center or other situation. Snatch straps are better if you're bogged in mud, sand or snow.
 
Queston: The general rule of thumb from what I understand is to have a rope with at least 3X the vehicle weight. I'd think that for just pulling out of a snow bank or ditch that should be sufficient. I don't see this rig in over the pumpkins in mud. So with the T4R coming in at about 6300, I'd want something about 18,900 lbs break strength.

Looking at this product:
Amazon.com: Bubba Rope (176655BKG) Renegade Rope, 3/4" x 20': Automotive
Robot Check
And the shackles.
Bubba rope with 19K lbs break strength. Good? Bad? Indifferent?
All the math and questions above are genuine so if I'm way off somewhere let me know. I've always used tow straps or a winch to drag out a rig, or not gotten stuck.... I don't like mud.

I have also been looking into the length and breaking strength of kinetic ropes to figure out which is best for my use. Front recovery will be using SSS Slimline recovery points, and rear will be using the factory points plus a hitch mounted point. I've heard that if something is going to break during a recovery that it should be the rope because it will be the least violent. Do people agree?

I would appreciate opinions, from those more experienced than me, on the sweet spot for breaking strength. Also, is 30' better than 20'? I've looked into Viking, Bubba, Master Pull, and ASR ropes. The rope lengths are from 20' to 30' feet and the breaking strengths are from 19k to 33.5k. Quality doesn't seem like a concern for any of the brands.

At 19k I like the 30' Viking and ASR ropes. The Bubba Rope 19k version is only 20' and it uses different material than Bubba's higher strength ropes, which would probably be 23k at this width, if they made it. Only Master Pull and ASR make 23k ropes (7/8"). Only Bubba makes a 28.6k rope, which is 7/8" and has a higher strength rating for its width than either the ASR or Master Pull. Not sure if 33.5k is overkill but Viking, Master Pull, and ASR each make one.

- Viking
- 30' x 3/4” - 19k $127
- 30' x 1” - 33.5k $169
- Died Black

- Bubba Rope
- 30' x 7/8” 28.6k $187
- 20' x 3/4" 19k - Only 20' $122
- Black w/ red
- Urethane polymer coating
- Comes with bag

- Master Pull
- 30' x 3/4” 19k $127
- 30' x 7/8” 23k $169
- 30' x 1” 33.5k $185
- Black

- ASR
- 30' x 3/4” 19k
- 30' x 7/8” 23k
- 30' x 1” 33.5k $149
- Grey or add Polymeric coating ($extra)
 
Recovery rope

After using a strap with steel hooks on the end (not good) for a number of years, I'm just beginning to put a better recovery gear kit together. See a recent thread I started on Recovery Gear. I have the 2&3/8"x30' ARB strap as well. Along with shackles, soft shackles, a come-along winch and a snatch block.

Consider that if you're stuck in the snow you may well have your front end into the snow and need to pull it out by the rear. You could use a tow hitch block with a shackle at the rear to connect the snatch strap.

The T4R has one fixed anchor point, or loop, on the back end of the frame on the left corner. I'm looking at adding another loop on the right corner. The exhaust pipe is directly below two bolt holes that are already there for a 2nd recovery point. I'm going to move the tailpipe to a side exhaust and put another loop in there. Toyota sells the loop part for $118 + $5 per bolt.

With two recovery points you can use a 10' long bridle rope tied to two recovery points with a snatch block at the apex of the rope, out a few feet from the vehicle. The block equalizes the load to each recovery point. You attach your snatch strap to the snatch block with a shackle and run it out to the pulling vehicle. If you have a winch on the recovery vehicle you attach the winch hook to the snatch block and pull directly.

Southeast Overland has the 3/8" rope bridle and soft shackles.
Home | Southeast Overland

The use of a high strength rope with little elongation is another option. A snatch strap uses kinetic energy (stretch) to increase the pull. A rope would rely on brute strength from the pulling vehicle or a winch where ever that may be adequate. Look at Samson Amsteel Blue rope for breaking strength vs size and I think you'll see the 1/2" rope has more capacity than the above ARB snatch strap capacity. The 7/16" rope is used in Wyeth-Scott 3 ton come-along. I ordered a book on rope splicing and if I can make a loop at the end I'll get the 1/2" rope and use it in my snatch block which handles up to 1/2" rope. Or use it shackled to the snatch block and tied to a bridle line. I might also make my own bridle with this rope. You can buy the rope in any size and length at the following supplier:
Marine Hardware, Mustang Survival Gear, Grundens Raingear, Scotty Downriggers & More! - LFS Marine and Outdoor

The damper blanket someone linked above is an important part of any recovery line using a kinetic strap or stretchable steel cable from a winch. There are lots of ways to implement this damper but the one shown is probably the easiest. See my thread for more info on safety.
 
Times whatever on the ARB 17k snatch strap. I can't say if it's better than what else is on the market, but it'll do the job for sure. Don't ditch the static strap though - I carry a cheapo with hooks because sometimes there's not enough room for a kinetic recovery, and sometimes I'm recovering a vehicle that doesn't have anywhere to put a shackle. And sometimes you need to tow or be towed - snatch strap is no damned good for that.

I agree with the static strap. I've got one too and actually use it far more than the snatch strap as I'm mostly wheeling in rocks and only need an occasional tug off of a high center or other situation. Snatch straps are better if you're bogged in mud, sand or snow.

Here is what ARB has to say about static straps:

ARB said:
Straps and Ropes:
This might be a tough habit to break, but never conduct a vehicle-to-vehicle recovery with a tow strap. A true tow strap is only used for flat-towing a disabled vehicle off the trail and to a meeting point with a tow truck. A proper tow strap is constructed from polyester, which has minimal stretch. Additionally, the tow strap will have a means of automatically adjusting its length to prevent the strap from dragging on the trail or road. This is most often accomplished with a bungee cord sewn inside the polyester webbing. It is not designed to be used to retrieve a stuck vehicle.

The proper implement for vehicle-to-vehicle recovery is a kinetic recovery strap or rope. Kinetic straps and ropes are constructed from woven nylon, which allows for stretch in the range of 20 to 35 percent.

not saying you guys are wrong, just allowing a different perspective on vehicle to vehicle recoveries. They also probably have a vested interest in you buying one of there snatch straps so there may be bias or they may be a really reliable recovery information source.
 
Here is what ARB has to say about static straps:



not saying you guys are wrong, just allowing a different perspective on vehicle to vehicle recoveries. They also probably have a vested interest in you buying one of there snatch straps so there may be bias or they may be a really reliable recovery information source.

Ah yes, but a cheapo static strap is best for pulling sleds in the snow with kids or friends riding them. Not going to use my ARB snatch strap for that!:focus:
 
[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] had a good conversation in one of my threads a while back. If you want to geek out on why the Kinetic is worth the extra money, check this out.

Alright [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION], you have officially asked me the most complex question to date! So here goes:

(disclaimer: in order to understand this explanation you need to understand physics and upper level math. In order to not reinvent the wheel I pulled selected links from the internet to help with the explanations. Everything here applies to a general condition but every recovery is unique with it's own set of challenges. Use this information at your own risk because recovering a vehicle is inherently dangerous. The data presented looks correct to me but I did not go through and check every single formula or conversion. I will try to write this so non engineers and physicists will understand. Use this as a general guide only!)

In reality, the recovery point on a vehicle is important, but not as important as the recovery method or equipment.
Let's start by addressing the actual question of "Is a front mounted receiver safe for a vehicle recovery?" The answer is, you guessed it, yes and no lol. Let me explain:

Without knowing the actual material specs of the hitch and the actual conditions in which the recovery is taking place I cannot tell you whether the hitch mount will fail. If the manufacturers tell you the rating though you should take that number as gospel. But in reality, what does this rating mean?

Well, the rating has to be used in context. Eddie mentioned that a "winch pull would be gentle and a hard tug would put more force on the vehicle." That could be true or not. If you are making a STATIC recovery (vehicle is stationary and a winch or come along is being used for example) the loads being transmitted will be more constant (instead of gentle) compared to a DYNAMIC recovery (vehicle is stationary and pulling vehicle is moving) that means forces will change considerably. Let's take a few examples:

Example 1: Vehicle is stuck and a winch is being used with wire rope connected to another vehicle.
In this example, the winch puts out a known force. The vehicle that is the "tie down" vehicle is a known weight and we all know that force required to slide the tie down vehicle across the dirt is much less than the weight of the vehicle right? This is a static recovery, for all intents and purposes used here today. This method is used quite often and is very straightforward. There is minimal rope stretch and the forces transmitted will be limited to the force required to slide the anchor vehicle or get the vehicle unstuck. You can also keep going and if your winch has enough pulling force this will continue until something fails. The math here is simple: Winch develops “X” amount of force on “Y” wrap and “Z” force is required to break free the stuck vehicle. If your components are good for the “Z” force you will be fine. If not, well...

Example 2: Vehicle is stuck and another vehicle is pulling it with a recovery strap.
This is an example of a DYNAMIC recovery. The strap is designed to stretch and by doing so will “ramp up” the transmitted forces. It will go from zero to maximum forces required to break the vehicle free from it’s position, the total amount of force able to be generated or until something fails.

Now THIS math is quite a bit different. It’s one thing to have something at rest, or static. It’s a different ball game when something is moving! The math, while straightforward, might require a primer. I have included a few links here:

This link should be used to understand the concepts Kinetic energy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This link should be used to better understand the relationships of vehicle dynamics http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hrakha/Publications/ASCE Constant Power Truck Acceleration Model.pdf

This is a nice link explaining recovery straps and their strength properties How To Choose A Recovery Strap Or Tow Strap - YouTube

Here is another link on the basic equipment needed for recovery Road to Recovery

And here is a link that goes through the math of making an actual recovery Offroadtb.com Dynamic Recovery

I have taken an excerpt from this last link that you should find pertinent to this conversation. In these series of calculations he is showing the differences of using a proper recovery strap, a static strap (non stretch) and a chain. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS POST! Why? [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] asked me if using a front hitch was a safe recovery point. I answered “yes” and no” and the following explanation will justify my answer. As you will see in his three examples, just by changing the equipment has changed the transmitted forces tremendously!

“The effects of using a non-dynamic connector:
We’ll use an average 5,000 lb vehicle as our example recovering vehicle. The two vehicles are attached with the strap, loose at first. The recovering vehicle proceeds forward with a bit of gas, reaching only 5 mph when reaching the end of the strap. At this point the vehicle has gathered kinetic energy equal to 1/2*mass*velocity^2.
KE = 0.5 * 5000 lb * (5 mi/hr)^2 = 5.7 kJ
We will assume for this instance that the stuck vehicle will remain stuck and will not budge (worst case)… so all of the recovering vehicle’s energy transfers into the strap and is turned into elastic potential energy. This stored energy will be equal to the kinetic energy that the truck had. This stored energy relates to the force exerted on each end by the following: energy = average force * distance. The distance is how far the strap stretches. The average force is assuming the rope exerts constant force, which ours does not. Because it’s force exerted most closely resembles a linear relationship to the stretch, the average force should be multiplied by 2 to get the maximum exerted force (which is all we are interested in here)… assuming the system reaches equilibrium without failure.

In instance 1, we will use a dynamic strap, which can stretch about 6 feet.
5.7 kJ / (6 ft) * 2 = 2,089 lbf (well within the safe range of most straps)

For instance 2, we used a static strap, which we will assume stretches only 4 inches before reaching equilibrium.
5.7 kJ / (4 in) * 2 = 25,072 lbf (enough to snap a strap or possibly rack your frame)

For the last instance, what if we used a chain, which has extremely minimal stretch. So we will say 0.5″…
5.7 kJ / (0.5 in) * 2 = 200,576 lbf (you will certainly break something!!)

So, I hope this gives you a real world, numerical understanding of why dynamic straps should ALWAYS be used in dynamic vehicle-to-vehicle recoveries.
* I did not show unit conversions for the sake of simplicity (there were a lot)”


Well! Now you guys should see that not all pulls are created equal! Same conditions, same vehicles, the only thing that changed was the connecting method!
I have used all three methods of connection in the past. We have even taken a hydraulic cylinder with a pressure gauge attached, mounted the cylinder in the connecting straps and used the pressure to measure the force developed during drawbar pull tests. These ratios are very close to our actual testing conclusions.

So, to summarize, IF you use the proper methods for recovery a front mounted receiver with the proper hooks should be fine. Even the OEM hooks will suffice with the proper recovery technique. I hope this answers your questions. Oh, don’t try to use these calculations for your own application unless you really understand the math. This guy left out a LOT of steps and conversions but it kept it simple and easy to understand.
 
Chain analogy

posted by 1Engineer ... “The effects of using a non-dynamic connector:
We’ll use an average 5,000 lb vehicle as our example recovering vehicle. The two vehicles are attached with the strap, loose at first. The recovering vehicle proceeds forward with a bit of gas, reaching only 5 mph when reaching the end of the strap. At this point the vehicle has gathered kinetic energy equal to 1/2*mass*velocity^2.
KE = 0.5 * 5000 lb * (5 mi/hr)^2 = 5.7 kJ
We will assume for this instance that the stuck vehicle will remain stuck and will not budge (worst case)… so all of the recovering vehicle’s energy transfers into the strap and is turned into elastic potential energy. This stored energy will be equal to the kinetic energy that the truck had. This stored energy relates to the force exerted on each end by the following: energy = average force * distance. The distance is how far the strap stretches. The average force is assuming the rope exerts constant force, which ours does not. Because it’s force exerted most closely resembles a linear relationship to the stretch, the average force should be multiplied by 2 to get the maximum exerted force (which is all we are interested in here)… assuming the system reaches equilibrium without failure.

In instance 1, we will use a dynamic strap, which can stretch about 6 feet.
5.7 kJ / (6 ft) * 2 = 2,089 lbf (well within the safe range of most straps)

For instance 2, we used a static strap, which we will assume stretches only 4 inches before reaching equilibrium.
5.7 kJ / (4 in) * 2 = 25,072 lbf (enough to snap a strap or possibly rack your frame)

For the last instance, what if we used a chain, which has extremely minimal stretch. So we will say 0.5″…
5.7 kJ / (0.5 in) * 2 = 200,576 lbf (you will certainly break something!!)

So, I hope this gives you a real world, numerical understanding of why dynamic straps should ALWAYS be used in dynamic vehicle-to-vehicle recoveries.
* I did not show unit conversions for the sake of simplicity (there were a lot)”

1Engineer copied the same info into my thread on Recovery Gear last week.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/213078-recovery-gear-options.html
It's all good info from a guy who knows how to crunch numbers. But the math quoted above is not typical of how you'd actually use a chain. And it assumes you can get going 5 mph in the length of the kinetic snatch strap, tow strap or chain. With the snatch strap your best pull is if you can get some momentum going before you hit the end of the strap but you likely need two straps for a longer pull line to gain speed.

What I said last week is this:

One problem with this mathematical comparison of the three lines is that you assume the pulling vehicle is moving at 5 mph when it hits the end of the chain. We all know that with a chain you'd pull the slack out slowly before applying any force. You'd start pulling from a dead stop. We can all imagine that if you hit the end of a chain at 5 mph what will happen to the anchor points or the chain. The weakest point will break.

See my post a couple of pages back about the reason we use anything made of steel at a working strength limit (WLL) instead of the ultimate or breaking strength.

One video I saw yesterday said that if something fails in a line of rigging a chain will drop rather than go flying because it has no stretch or kinetic energy. Of course that assumes it is not attached to a kinetic strap or rope or a winch cable.

Long ago an old codger said to me, "A chain is only as good as the weakest link". Now that I'm older than that old codger I have to wonder about using short lengths of chain as part of a recovery system.
 
1Engineer copied the same info into my thread on Recovery Gear last week.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/213078-recovery-gear-options.html
It's all good info from a guy who knows how to crunch numbers. But the math quoted above is not typical of how you'd actually use a chain. And it assumes you can get going 5 mph in the length of the kinetic snatch strap, tow strap or chain. With the snatch strap your best pull is if you can get some momentum going before you hit the end of the strap but you likely need two straps for a longer pull line to gain speed.

I've been and done recoveries countless times over the past 30 years. If you can't get it out with a straight pull what do you do? Back up, put some slack in the strap or chain and jerk it out. The whole point of the post was to show the difference in forces between three different recovery options and from experience the calculations are very close to real life.
 
Snapping chains

I've been and done recoveries countless times over the past 30 years. If you can't get it out with a straight pull what do you do? Back up, put some slack in the strap or chain and jerk it out. The whole point of the post was to show the difference in forces between three different recovery options and from experience the calculations are very close to real life.

Thanks for the reply and clarification. I just can't imagine wanting to jerk on a rigid chain. You do have the experience.
 

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