Sniv's Custom Long Travel Build
- Thread starter snivilous
- Start date
snivilous
Senior Member
With just the top light bar, there is a noticeable shadow that the roof creates that goes out maybe 20 feet or so. Everything else above that point gets lit up really nicely though, but I would think it'd still be annoying unless you had another bar up front to make up for that shadow (like my bumper light bar does) or moved the roof one forward so there was less of a shadow. Regardless, it's still a night/day difference in lighting wherever it's mounted. I'll try to get a picture of just the top bar on to show you how it looks.
Engineering student then? I am too. Nice 4runner, gotta love running with the jeep guys we get that around here too. Here's my pig:
It's got a long way to go, I hope to head out your way some day after I get my expedition build complete.
Haha thanks man, I think you have a killer looking rig with the hoops, HID, and LED bar. I've been thinking recently about adding hoops to my bumper, but we'll see if that ever happens... What field are you majoring in? And give me a shout if you're ever heading west, it'd be sweet to go wheeling/camping/expeditioning
snivilous
Senior Member
So Sunday I helped a guy install a lift on his Runner:
Then yesterday I worked a bit and then went on a quick trip up to Hessie trailhead which is by no means hard, but is fun little road where you have to drive up a river. In the spring the water is a good 2 feet high or so, this was the lowest I've ever seen it aside from the fact a lot was frozen.
And then today I installed a spacer lift on my mom's 4Runner, which has been having some rubbing issues since installing some 32" Duratracs (they are bigger than the previous BFG ATs to rub I guess).
The first side took me like 2+ hours since I couldn't figure out how to get the shock out since it's a limited with XREAS. Once I totally removed the sway bar and disconnected the upper control arm ball joint I was able to barely squeeze the coilover out (I couldn't move it from the truck because the hose was still connected though). Then the second side literally took a half hour. It's so much nicer when you know what you are doing
Before the wheel well was TIGHT:
Now that that is done, I will pull my 4Runner into the garage later tonight and start with the front bumper and reinforce the piss out of it and move towards the back fixing things on my check list and changing the oil. I'll look around at the spare steel we have or maybe buy some tomorrow and see about making a prototype long travel lower A arm.
Then yesterday I worked a bit and then went on a quick trip up to Hessie trailhead which is by no means hard, but is fun little road where you have to drive up a river. In the spring the water is a good 2 feet high or so, this was the lowest I've ever seen it aside from the fact a lot was frozen.
And then today I installed a spacer lift on my mom's 4Runner, which has been having some rubbing issues since installing some 32" Duratracs (they are bigger than the previous BFG ATs to rub I guess).
The first side took me like 2+ hours since I couldn't figure out how to get the shock out since it's a limited with XREAS. Once I totally removed the sway bar and disconnected the upper control arm ball joint I was able to barely squeeze the coilover out (I couldn't move it from the truck because the hose was still connected though). Then the second side literally took a half hour. It's so much nicer when you know what you are doing
Before the wheel well was TIGHT:
Now that that is done, I will pull my 4Runner into the garage later tonight and start with the front bumper and reinforce the piss out of it and move towards the back fixing things on my check list and changing the oil. I'll look around at the spare steel we have or maybe buy some tomorrow and see about making a prototype long travel lower A arm.
MTD
New member
Haha thanks man, I think you have a killer looking rig with the hoops, HID, and LED bar. I've been thinking recently about adding hoops to my bumper, but we'll see if that ever happens... What field are you majoring in? And give me a shout if you're ever heading west, it'd be sweet to go wheeling/camping/expeditioning
Haha thanks man! Yeah I'm a ME major which is awesome and hell all in one lol. I love the bumper, I wish that I had access to a welder to have been able to build my own like you, looks sweet btw. Luckily 4xInnovations is right here in town though so I was able to work with/hang out with adam (UWP ME alumni
when it was being built a little bit. I will definitely let you know if the GF and I head out that way it would be a ball to wheel/camp lol you are lucky out there all we have around here for wheeling is some logging roads :shrug: We usually just get a bunch of the 4runners on campus here together and go and tear it up haha.
snivilous
Senior Member
[MENTION=91276]mrtucker80[/MENTION] Here are pictures of the "horizon line".
Bumper LED off:
Bumper LED on:
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And here are some pictures I grabbed from a quick trip through Roosevelt National Forest. There's a loop I "race" my ATV on, I can leave our house and cross into the national forest then loop up and to the top of our road and back to our house. Turns out it's a 4.7 mile loop, good to know that I only average like 15mph on the ATV haha.
Bumper LED off:
Bumper LED on:
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And here are some pictures I grabbed from a quick trip through Roosevelt National Forest. There's a loop I "race" my ATV on, I can leave our house and cross into the national forest then loop up and to the top of our road and back to our house. Turns out it's a 4.7 mile loop, good to know that I only average like 15mph on the ATV haha.
mrtucker80
New member
Thanks for the pictures. I see what you are talking about. With the front bumper bar on it is not too bad. I have a 22" Spot bar on my front bumper and a pair of 27w round floods in there as well so I should have the lower half covered. I really wish I had some cool places to bounce around in the snow like that.
Do you think if it were raised an inch or so that it would help with the cut off? I was thinking about mounting it to the actual cross bar which would raise it about an inch or so above the roof line which should push the cut-off down a little on the horizon.
Do you think if it were raised an inch or so that it would help with the cut off? I was thinking about mounting it to the actual cross bar which would raise it about an inch or so above the roof line which should push the cut-off down a little on the horizon.
snivilous
Senior Member
Sorry for the delayed response, it would help but I don't think it'd be a very noticeable improvement. If you have a 22" spot in the front I don't think you'll have any issues, I can notice the line a little bit with my 20" flood but that's only because the flood bar I have sucks and doesn't penetrate at all.
And come to CO/UT and we can go snow wheeling and camping!
snivilous
Senior Member
Worked on the truck a bit today. Removed the front bumper, rewelded the D-ring/bumper mounts (they integrate with the winch plate/frame) and added some angle iron bracing. I also made sure I got good penetration this time since that was why my D-ring mount broke before. You can tell with my armor the stronger it gets as I get better with welding and am running more heat. My rear bumper has penetration issues which I'll work on tomorrow, then my front bumper had better penetration but obviously didn't do so well being pulled on, and then my front bash plate is the most recent armor and has been nearly destroyed twice now and caved in from hitting stuff so fast but the welds are holding great.
I also got my passenger side mirror fixed. I received my new drivers side mirror and housing today but it looks like it's for a 96-98 since I think it'll fit but it's not the same style... I think I'll send it back and find the right mirror, though it sucks since it was advertised to be an '01. I also pulled my K&N off to clean it, and the intact tube has dirt and what looks like splash marks in it. I'll take the tube off tomorrow and see how far it got and clean it, but I've decided to get a snorkel when I can which probably won't be until summer since I want to get my suspension set to last me for awhile and lock the front and rear.
I think the stock air intake would of done better since its enclosed, but it's hard to say since it sucks air from the fender. I think the reason the intact tube looks like it got soaked is that I hit a lot of puddles, and a few weeks back when me and the white Wrangler went out there was a TON of water and I think I dumped literally hundreds of gallons of water onto the truck and into the engine bay.
I'll have to think about it, I think a snorkel would help but since it's sucking from near the roof I don't think that it would decrease water being sucked in that much since the roof gets splashed routinely... It would help if the intake on the snorkel was faced backwards but that would look retarded. I read the other day you can route the intake tube through the fender and into the cab and then a guy ran double door seals which is the best bet I think as far as stopping water, though I don't know how long you could run recirculate for (if at all). We'll see, it's a long way off, maybe I'll just make a housing for the K&N so water can't enter it as easily. Here's the engine bay right now:
It's been that way for a few months, I'll wash it later this week. Thanks for reading!
I also got my passenger side mirror fixed. I received my new drivers side mirror and housing today but it looks like it's for a 96-98 since I think it'll fit but it's not the same style... I think I'll send it back and find the right mirror, though it sucks since it was advertised to be an '01. I also pulled my K&N off to clean it, and the intact tube has dirt and what looks like splash marks in it. I'll take the tube off tomorrow and see how far it got and clean it, but I've decided to get a snorkel when I can which probably won't be until summer since I want to get my suspension set to last me for awhile and lock the front and rear.
I think the stock air intake would of done better since its enclosed, but it's hard to say since it sucks air from the fender. I think the reason the intact tube looks like it got soaked is that I hit a lot of puddles, and a few weeks back when me and the white Wrangler went out there was a TON of water and I think I dumped literally hundreds of gallons of water onto the truck and into the engine bay.
I'll have to think about it, I think a snorkel would help but since it's sucking from near the roof I don't think that it would decrease water being sucked in that much since the roof gets splashed routinely... It would help if the intake on the snorkel was faced backwards but that would look retarded. I read the other day you can route the intake tube through the fender and into the cab and then a guy ran double door seals which is the best bet I think as far as stopping water, though I don't know how long you could run recirculate for (if at all). We'll see, it's a long way off, maybe I'll just make a housing for the K&N so water can't enter it as easily. Here's the engine bay right now:
It's been that way for a few months, I'll wash it later this week. Thanks for reading!
snivilous
Senior Member
Do you have the larger calipers? I thought Limiteds and maybe some other models came with the larger calipers that you needed at least 16" rims to fit, since I have a base SR5 I got the smaller brakes...though maybe I'm making that up :blah:
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Another quick update, ran across the road with the 33s. I don't like them so we'll leave them on the FJ, they are too skinny for my taste and of course the rims look pretty dumb compared to mine I think.
At least I know I can fit 33x9.50 with no rubbing issues.
So after we swapped my tires back and rotated them, it was on to moving the Hi-lift mounts. Before the Hi-lift would get bolted to the upper bolt of the two D-rings on the bumper, though if I used a D-ring it would hit the Hi-lift before going perpendicular to the bumper and likewise the winch would hit it, and then of course I had the Hi-lift get hit off in Moab since the hook part hunk below the bumper. So to fix that, I just took the stand offs it bolted too and welded them up higher, so now the Hi-lift will clear my approach angle as well as clear the winch and D-rings
And it'll be mounted substantially stronger since the stand offs are welded on, versus bolted on.
And here is how my bash plate looks right now which will get fixed soon:
Hopefully the bash plate won't be too hard to pound out, though the tubing and stand offs on the inside of it are buckled so we'll see... It did it's job and that's what matters. Still, I had one of the rear mounts on the cross member get sheared off from the cross member. That's proof right there you don't want the bash plate to be too strong otherwise it will start hurting the truck and not absorbing the load, even after the bash plate crumpled it still ripped mounts off the frame. That's what happens when you wheel fast :becky:
Also changed the oil and filter, it's at 151,429 miles.
ALSO: The outer CV housing on the drivers side half shaft is SUPER rusted, this is the Autozone axle. I'm probably going to pull the spindle from it and try to clean it off, I don't know why it's so badly rusted since the stock one is completely fine. Kinda pisses me off, but it'll be an easy fix, guess you just have to paint the cheap (or at least Autozone) axle interfaces...
snivilous
Senior Member
So yesterday and today I finished working on the truck (for the moment). I pounded on the bash plate a bit but it didn't do much, we also took our tractor and pushed on it with the bucket to try and get the dent out and it didn't budge, then we drove our V8 4th gen onto it and it still didn't move. So the bash plate is essentially the same way it looked before, pretty crumpled but it's obviously super strong...
I then welded a new rear drivers side mount to the cross member for the bash plate, the old one had been ripped off.
Rewired the subwoofer with good connections, grounded the amp housing, and made the wiring a bit neater. It sounds better I think, though I have an issue where when I start the truck the sub works fine but after I disengage the parking brake the sub starts to hum UNLESS I switch on the headlights...? I thought grounding the amp housing fixed it but I was wrong, I was going to wrap aluminum foil around the wiring in the center console to block whatever signal the amp (presumably the head unit) is picking up but I was too lazy so I just drive around with the headlights always on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Today we washed the truck and engine bay, now you can actually see the engine!
And finally went and fixed the rear bumper. Some of the welds broke when the truck got tipped onto its side, and the right fender section had been contacting the body. Easy fix, just used a clamp to pull the outside section over where the weld had broken with the center section (below the lift gate) and then rewelded it. The metal was caved in too where the weld had broke, so I just welded a plate over the dented section and then ground it down flush. My CB antenna now doesn't hit the lift gate when it opens And I went for a quick test drive to make sure the bumper wasn't rubbing the body.
I still have some noises when I'm offroad, otherwise it's pretty silent on flat surfaces. I don't have the winch wrapped around the bumper and pulled taught to one of the stock tow points like I usually do, so the hook might be rattling and then I don't have anything holding the hi-lifts foot steady so it can vibrate, and of course my D-rings in the front. It sounded like something was vibrating in the rear too, which I think is from the quick disconnects since they are pretty old and have a lot of slop in them. Anyways, compared to my buddies Jeeps with their links making noise, or super harsh suspensions, or lockers ratcheting when they corner, mine is still super quiet haha
When I went for the test drive I also came across some guys camping, they had an F-250 pulling a trailer with a rock crawler on it. Converted Jeep running what looked like 42" tires on bead locks, there were some other vehicles but I noticed a SAS'ed 2nd gen running at least 35" tires too. Was pretty sweet though I didn't stop to talk.
Poser shot, and she's ready to head back to school! Thanks for reading
I then welded a new rear drivers side mount to the cross member for the bash plate, the old one had been ripped off.
Rewired the subwoofer with good connections, grounded the amp housing, and made the wiring a bit neater. It sounds better I think, though I have an issue where when I start the truck the sub works fine but after I disengage the parking brake the sub starts to hum UNLESS I switch on the headlights...? I thought grounding the amp housing fixed it but I was wrong, I was going to wrap aluminum foil around the wiring in the center console to block whatever signal the amp (presumably the head unit) is picking up but I was too lazy so I just drive around with the headlights always on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Today we washed the truck and engine bay, now you can actually see the engine!
And finally went and fixed the rear bumper. Some of the welds broke when the truck got tipped onto its side, and the right fender section had been contacting the body. Easy fix, just used a clamp to pull the outside section over where the weld had broken with the center section (below the lift gate) and then rewelded it. The metal was caved in too where the weld had broke, so I just welded a plate over the dented section and then ground it down flush. My CB antenna now doesn't hit the lift gate when it opens
And I went for a quick test drive to make sure the bumper wasn't rubbing the body.
I still have some noises when I'm offroad, otherwise it's pretty silent on flat surfaces. I don't have the winch wrapped around the bumper and pulled taught to one of the stock tow points like I usually do, so the hook might be rattling and then I don't have anything holding the hi-lifts foot steady so it can vibrate, and of course my D-rings in the front. It sounded like something was vibrating in the rear too, which I think is from the quick disconnects since they are pretty old and have a lot of slop in them. Anyways, compared to my buddies Jeeps with their links making noise, or super harsh suspensions, or lockers ratcheting when they corner, mine is still super quiet haha
When I went for the test drive I also came across some guys camping, they had an F-250 pulling a trailer with a rock crawler on it. Converted Jeep running what looked like 42" tires on bead locks, there were some other vehicles but I noticed a SAS'ed 2nd gen running at least 35" tires too. Was pretty sweet though I didn't stop to talk.
Poser shot, and she's ready to head back to school! Thanks for reading
Cartzo
New member
Sheared link I found (passenger side):
You're welcome for fixing that...:thumb:
snivilous
Senior Member
So quick update, I got back to school Sunday night with no issues and finished my last class yesterday (Friday) and now have finals next week and then heading home! I sold both my front LED bars (20" bumper and 40" roof) to some of my buddies. I am now going to buy a 30" single row for the bumper because it'll be lower profile and higher output than the old 20", and fit the curves of the bumper a bit nicer; and then a 50" dual row for the roof which I will mount over the windshield, which as I may of mentioned before I needed giant brackets to fit my 40" over the windshield so the 50" should fit a lot nicer and have a lot higher output as well. I found some cheaper places to buy LED bars, at least the 30" ones--looking at most of $125 with free shipping. We'll see if it works, it's this cheap chinese place (same LED bar as before though) but it seems like you are buying direct from the manufacturer maybe...
Anyways, I will order it up so when I get home the bars should have arrived. I will be looking at a minimum of 35,000 lumens (rated) for just frontal lighting plus 9,000 per side, and I might grab some little 6" or pod LEDs for the rear if I'm feeling it...
And today I helped one of the jeep guys install the LED bar and some other mods on the jeep. I can say that's the coldest I've ever been working on a vehicle, as it was maybe 15 degrees out with a single propane heater for over 3 hours, and the other guys had been there 2 hours longer than I was!
Makes me really appreciate having a heated garage back home
I also ordered a new CB microphone and it works great, $10 off ebay. I'll send in my broken one and hopefully get that fixed under warranty. I got [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] to tune my subwoofer which sounds awesome now, when I go home I will switch the ground out to ground to the chassis vs the battery and see if the shorter connection fixes the humming I get with my headlights off. My drivers side dome light is burned out, and my drivers side facing LED bar won't turn out which I suspect is from a wire being disconnected when I was removing the front LED harness earlier today.
Also, I was planning on selling my 31s and getting 33s over Christmas though I really want 35s. I talked to my dad and he agreed I should just wait until summer and get 35s then, especially after I read an article in Toyota DIY how cheap gears are (like $500 for gears and install, I thought it'd be multiple $1000). So I'll probably go to 5.29s and 35s over the summer. In the meantime I haven't been able to work on the long travel much, but the plan is to still go for it. Hopefully my parents will gift me all the metal and joints I need, and I should make enough money to buy some 10" travel coilovers. It'll be tight though since I will have to get home and measure everything right away, finish the preliminary design and get everything ordered and start building right away. Plan is to go with the original square tubed skeleton sandwiched between plate, as that should be cheap, easy to make, and strong.
Anyways, thanks for reading as always, hopefully it's warmer wherever you are! My dad said it was -15F a few mornings ago back home in CO, so it can always get worse! Going snow wheeling tomorrow so will get some pictures :hello:
My roommate and I :rockon:
Anyways, I will order it up so when I get home the bars should have arrived. I will be looking at a minimum of 35,000 lumens (rated) for just frontal lighting plus 9,000 per side, and I might grab some little 6" or pod LEDs for the rear if I'm feeling it...
And today I helped one of the jeep guys install the LED bar and some other mods on the jeep. I can say that's the coldest I've ever been working on a vehicle, as it was maybe 15 degrees out with a single propane heater for over 3 hours, and the other guys had been there 2 hours longer than I was!
Makes me really appreciate having a heated garage back home
I also ordered a new CB microphone and it works great, $10 off ebay. I'll send in my broken one and hopefully get that fixed under warranty. I got [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] to tune my subwoofer which sounds awesome now, when I go home I will switch the ground out to ground to the chassis vs the battery and see if the shorter connection fixes the humming I get with my headlights off. My drivers side dome light is burned out, and my drivers side facing LED bar won't turn out which I suspect is from a wire being disconnected when I was removing the front LED harness earlier today.
Also, I was planning on selling my 31s and getting 33s over Christmas though I really want 35s. I talked to my dad and he agreed I should just wait until summer and get 35s then, especially after I read an article in Toyota DIY how cheap gears are (like $500 for gears and install, I thought it'd be multiple $1000). So I'll probably go to 5.29s and 35s over the summer. In the meantime I haven't been able to work on the long travel much, but the plan is to still go for it. Hopefully my parents will gift me all the metal and joints I need, and I should make enough money to buy some 10" travel coilovers. It'll be tight though since I will have to get home and measure everything right away, finish the preliminary design and get everything ordered and start building right away. Plan is to go with the original square tubed skeleton sandwiched between plate, as that should be cheap, easy to make, and strong.
Anyways, thanks for reading as always, hopefully it's warmer wherever you are! My dad said it was -15F a few mornings ago back home in CO, so it can always get worse! Going snow wheeling tomorrow so will get some pictures :hello:
My roommate and I :rockon:
snivilous
Senior Member
So went snow wheeling today. Started out below Bear Lake up Logan Canyon and headed towards Swan Lake in Idaho. This was the first time I've ever aired down for wheeling, and I dropped to 15psi. I was afraid my dinged rim would have issues but it worked fine. I was surprised how well the truck plowed through everything, granted it usually out wheels most of the rigs I go with in the snow, but I think airing down helped a lot.
The snow at the highway where we aired down was about 8" deep.
For the beginning of the trail there were some snow mobile tracks, and we passed a cross country skier. The first area of issue was this culvert where I got stuck. I run lead when we go wheeling, and I could of hit the section faster but I had slowed down since I didn't want to slide off the road into the ditch.
Though that's why you wheel in pairs!
The snow was probably around 10" deep at this point.
The jeep backing up to pull me. The ARB snatch strap I have is really nice, it took two yanks but I got moving. I then hit the section again with more speed and no issue.
After that there was a bit of a rise and then what I think is Swan lake was on the left and we crossed into Idaho.
We then followed the trail around the edge of the lake, which at the end were a group of about 6 people with some snowmobiles who watched us chugging along. I felt pretty beast with the truck just chewing through the powder and the snowmobilers staring at us like 'what the hell are those guys doing?' It was kind of nerve wracking though since the trail went into a pretty steep up hill section which I didn't know if I could make it up, but again no issues.
After the hill the snow mobile tracks stopped and I was now plowing the path without any packed snow (granted before it was only a single snow mobile track to help traction). At the top of the hill took some attempts to get through, but once after that the hill sloped down and I got zooming. Then we ran into this field:
Which ultimately stopped us. I made it maybe halfway across before I couldn't go any further, and this was hitting the section at about 20mph in 4Lo.
I would go, plow through, back up and do it again with slow progress. I pulled to the side of the trail and had the Jeep go around since he's locked in the front and has 33s but he got stuck almost instantly and had to get dug out, though I think with some rocking back and forth he could of made it out just fine.
We kept at this for awhile with me trying a couple hundred foot running start in 4Hi and 4Lo but could only gain maybe 10' at a time, and the jeep had an even harder time making progress (probably since his axle was plowing through snow and my bash plates would help float me over it and since I weigh probably 1000lbs more).
The snow at this section of trail was probably 24" of powder which was sweet Though after all the attempts we decided to turn around since progress was so slow and we were afraid of the transmissions getting too hot, which I could smell mine getting hot since I was constantly at or over 4000rpm in 4Lo.
Overall it was awesome, and I'm more convinced I need bigger tires so I won't be getting high centered in the snow! I'm going to check my tranny fluid tomorrow when I go to air up, which hopefully it's not burnt, though I'm considering getting another tranny cooler and running a dual (or triple) tranny cooler setup. I also need to get a transmission temperature gauge; though my engine temperature never went a hair over where it normally stays. Anyhow, thanks for reading and have an awesome weekend!
The snow at the highway where we aired down was about 8" deep.
For the beginning of the trail there were some snow mobile tracks, and we passed a cross country skier. The first area of issue was this culvert where I got stuck. I run lead when we go wheeling, and I could of hit the section faster but I had slowed down since I didn't want to slide off the road into the ditch.
Though that's why you wheel in pairs!
The snow was probably around 10" deep at this point.
The jeep backing up to pull me. The ARB snatch strap I have is really nice, it took two yanks but I got moving. I then hit the section again with more speed and no issue.
After that there was a bit of a rise and then what I think is Swan lake was on the left and we crossed into Idaho.
We then followed the trail around the edge of the lake, which at the end were a group of about 6 people with some snowmobiles who watched us chugging along. I felt pretty beast with the truck just chewing through the powder and the snowmobilers staring at us like 'what the hell are those guys doing?' It was kind of nerve wracking though since the trail went into a pretty steep up hill section which I didn't know if I could make it up, but again no issues.
After the hill the snow mobile tracks stopped and I was now plowing the path without any packed snow (granted before it was only a single snow mobile track to help traction). At the top of the hill took some attempts to get through, but once after that the hill sloped down and I got zooming. Then we ran into this field:
Which ultimately stopped us. I made it maybe halfway across before I couldn't go any further, and this was hitting the section at about 20mph in 4Lo.
I would go, plow through, back up and do it again with slow progress. I pulled to the side of the trail and had the Jeep go around since he's locked in the front and has 33s but he got stuck almost instantly and had to get dug out, though I think with some rocking back and forth he could of made it out just fine.
We kept at this for awhile with me trying a couple hundred foot running start in 4Hi and 4Lo but could only gain maybe 10' at a time, and the jeep had an even harder time making progress (probably since his axle was plowing through snow and my bash plates would help float me over it and since I weigh probably 1000lbs more).
The snow at this section of trail was probably 24" of powder which was sweet
Though after all the attempts we decided to turn around since progress was so slow and we were afraid of the transmissions getting too hot, which I could smell mine getting hot since I was constantly at or over 4000rpm in 4Lo.Overall it was awesome, and I'm more convinced I need bigger tires so I won't be getting high centered in the snow! I'm going to check my tranny fluid tomorrow when I go to air up, which hopefully it's not burnt, though I'm considering getting another tranny cooler and running a dual (or triple
) tranny cooler setup. I also need to get a transmission temperature gauge; though my engine temperature never went a hair over where it normally stays. Anyhow, thanks for reading and have an awesome weekend!
snivilous
Senior Member
[MENTION=82691]Broker[/MENTION] What fiberglass fenders are you running? I'm shopping around and hope to order some this week, I've heard McNeil Racing is pretty good. And what Tacoma fenders do you have? Some places have 95-2000 and then 01-04 Tacoma fenders, though I can't see a difference in them though I would assume the earlier year would fit the 4Runner better. I'll give the companies a call later this week to see what they say too.
Broker
New member
I have fiberworx tacoma fenders. No idea what year, but I don't think there is a difference in fenders between the years of tacomas. I almost went with the McNeils but talked with fiberworxs guys at one of the offroad shows here and they had me sold.
I think the fenders are alright. I can see where I might have some issues down the road with them, the glass is cracking a little around the mounts, and I may have to re-enforce them later.
I think the fenders are alright. I can see where I might have some issues down the road with them, the glass is cracking a little around the mounts, and I may have to re-enforce them later.
Cartzo
New member
You may want to turn your high pass filter up a notch or two to let a bit more of the higher tones through. I like it to hit lowww though :thumb:
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