Sniv's Custom Long Travel Build

i dont care what your doing right now.

get me some pictures of the side output light from your single light bars on the sides. if you can stand back a ways so i can see how far and bright the light goes.
your back up lights are the ones im thinking about putting on the back and on the side, (2 back, 2 side, 2 on the other side.) then maybe a large 40" bar up front.
 
the amazing adventures of snivilous!

I guess I missed the part where you "flopped over" your Rig (pg. 4) Ouch!!! But looks like that all worked out, you've been through hell and back my friend, and your truck looks better than ever... keep up the good work! Sub'd-

And BTW Long travel setups are awesome, look forward to seeing that come to life-

I wheeled with a 1st Gen 4R with a LT kit and that thing went everwhere the SAS guys went.

:nicethread:
 
i dont care what your doing right now.

get me some pictures of the side output light from your single light bars on the sides. if you can stand back a ways so i can see how far and bright the light goes.
your back up lights are the ones im thinking about putting on the back and on the side, (2 back, 2 side, 2 on the other side.) then maybe a large 40" bar up front.

I'll try to get some pictures tonight with the good camera. The 40" single row LED bar I used to have was awesome if you're thinking of going that route.
 
So I was feeling shitty earlier today and figured I'd go for a ride. Was just cruising to a hiking trailhead, not even offroading, and my coilover got ripped apart...

9B4B8F27-B923-4DC4-A41E-91409AB89820_zpstmebpfsh.jpg~original


All the plus side it was the coilover that was leaking...

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It pisses me off what happened, I don't get how a shock mount ON THE SHOCK can get ripped off like that... Last time I tried to get the shock warrantied I got some bullshit from downsouth motorsports that the shock was on backorder... This time I better as hell get a new shock since it's bullshit to have a shock rip apart.

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Drove back home on the bump stops after I pulled the coilover on the side of the road to keep it from destroying the lower A arm. My grille also fell off at some point in the journey but I went back with the Cruiser and grabbed it, I'll probably bolt it in next.

Next thing to do is reinstall my stock coilovers, which can't fit my Eibachs, so the front won't have lift until I get a new shock.
 
So I was feeling shitty earlier today and figured I'd go for a ride. Was just cruising to a hiking trailhead, not even offroading, and my coilover got ripped apart...



It pisses me off what happened, I don't get how a shock mount ON THE SHOCK can get ripped off like that... Last time I tried to get the shock warrantied I got some bullshit from downsouth motorsports that the shock was on backorder... This time I better as hell get a new shock since it's bullshit to have a shock rip apart.


Drove back home on the bump stops after I pulled the coilover on the side of the road to keep it from destroying the lower A arm. My grille also fell off at some point in the journey but I went back with the Cruiser and grabbed it, I'll probably bolt it in next.

Next thing to do is reinstall my stock coilovers, which can't fit my Eibachs, so the front won't have lift until I get a new shock.

i was thinking about just installing the ones you have for back up on the sides and rear (6 total, 2,2,2) but i found a china dual row bar for like $55, might buy 2 and put on ether side and then buy like a 40 for upfront. (i think your 50 is a few inches too long)

but yeah if you were on last night your would have seen my post.


dude that seriously blows about your shock, bad thing they are on back order too. :dammit: id be pissed if that happened. at least u could drive it home. altho a ball joint would have been a problem its something u can fix on the trail.
 
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get me some pictures of the side output light from your single light bars on the sides.

Only took a week and a half but I grabbed some pictures up a trail the other day.

These are just iPhone photos, but the 30" side bars penetrate really well. Photos suck dick though especially since they're pointing at a mountainside...

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This is all side LED for the most part:

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And then side plus the two 6" rears:

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Only took a week and a half but I grabbed some pictures up a trail the other day.

These are just iPhone photos, but
And then side plus the two 6" rears:

Worthless! cant count on you for anything. ( still haven't started hacking your truck for a LT kit.)
were your rears on?
But i bought some anyways and fuse block and relays.

everything should be here in a week. YAY!
 
And I'm now in Northern Utah for a long time. [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] and I moved in together which is sweet! I replaced the blown bilstein and good bilstein coilovers with the stocks plus a 2" spacer I had to try and level it a bit, though literally after the first 2 minute test drive around the street one shock was visibly bubbling and you could hear it depressurizing. Now both front shocks are gone after the drive and one wheeling trip, so they're more like coil guides. Whatever... just need to hold off for LT like I keep saying... :wacko:

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The Runner did really good towing the trailer plus all my gear to Utah. Besides going over Loveland pass I was able to maintain the speed limit and was able to do 70+ on I-80, just dropping it into 3rd every now and then which I usually have to do anyways...

It's sweet that the lake is now 8 miles from our house vs an hour and a half like in Colorado. Runner won't get much work done until the next paycheck. Mostly be playing with Baby Blue this summer since it's cheaper and the water feels good :D Until LT at least :thumb:

Not that it's 4Runner related but my other hobby for the past 3 years. Baby Blue being the one on the left:

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1989 Kawasaki 650sx - Factory Pipe, Mikuni 44mm SBN, polished Westcoast Intake manifold, polished exhaust manifold, high compression head, 9/15 skat-trak impeller, bilge pump, custom handlepole, hull and ride plate chopped 7 inches, EME foot holds, fully turfed, nitrous oxide injection with custom wiring harness and 2lb tank, premix conversion, straight bars, etc.

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Right before moving here I milled the high compression head down so my compression is now bumped to ~190psi. Stock at elevation was 135psi, the high compression head bumped that to 165psi, and now it's even higher :D The ski is way out of tune right now from the increased compression and the elevation being lower here than what I normally ride (4300ft vs 5300ft or so). So far I haven't needed to run race gas which I'm surprised by, but I also haven't tried the nitrous out with the increased compression so I wouldn't be surprised if I start pinging when boosting... But that comes once I get the carb and pipe dialed in again and find where I can get some nitrous and then slowly bumping the nitrous jetting and see what I can pull out. In the past I've run up to 30hp jet and that was a huge power boost, we'll see how safe it feels going this time. Gotta pull as much power out of this little 635cc as I can :thumb:

Anyways, thanks for reading!

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And [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] you know I can't keep schedules involving my own truck, it's been 6 months since I thought I would long travel, how can you expect me to take a picture quickly?! :fish:
 
i miss my jet skis, (sit down polaris) they were quick and stable on the water. i could sit out there all day with out tipping over. loved them.
never road a stand up but i would like to.

im serious, come of to the sand dunes and explore a whole new way of off roading!!!
 
i miss my jet skis, (sit down polaris) they were quick and stable on the water. i could sit out there all day with out tipping over. loved them.
never road a stand up but i would like to.

im serious, come of to the sand dunes and explore a whole new way of off roading!!!

I'm confident this next paycheck I will get my suspension finally installed, since I will be done with the initial costs of moving and have a fully paycheck finally! Once I have the LT I'm down for sure!!! Depending on what [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] wants to do we could bring the 1G and 3G down since they should both be long traveled then.

If you come through Logan stop by so you can try a stand up, waaaaaay cooler than a sit down where all you do is a go in a line or a circle! Guys piss standing up, not sitting down :lmao:
 
Time is coming around to start ordering parts for my A arms, I was browsing Total Chaos and it appears the stock bump stop is retained on their kits:

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My assumption for my kit was to cut out the stock bump stop area so I can utilize the CVs available up travel. With stock, at full compression the CV is barely angled past flat and from that picture it appears at full bump the CV would still be there since the frame/stock bump stop hasn't been modified. Total Chaos says 13" of travel, which it would appear is 13" of travel using a CV that essentially goes from flat to drooping when cycled meaning you could almost double the travel if the frame/bump stop wouldn't limit the lower arm (and you could stuff a big enough shock). Am I missing something or are most people just too lazy/don't want to take the time to seriously fab up and modify the front end so they can get 20+" of working 4WD?

[MENTION=79343]enigmadsm[/MENTION] [MENTION=96765]Illestreker[/MENTION] [MENTION=68342]djskorch[/MENTION] [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION]

EDIT: In short I want my front suspension to get as much travel as possible, which means it's ultimately limited by the CVs and I don't see anything showing that the 13" travel from bolt on kits is using anywhere near the maximum travel of the Tundra CVs. And I know a lot of other factors (cutting/reinforcing the frame, UCA rotating too high and into the coilover, fitting shocks to handle all that travel, steering travel requirements, etc.) come into play, but I can work around those.
 
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The people utilizing more than the standard 12" of travel are usually going with a 10" coilover, custom shock towers/ hoops, and often you'll see engine cage so as to brace the hoops so they don't crack due to leverage and frame flex. I think your bumper or cross member at full stuff utilizing more up travel would essentially be a snow plow. I'm sure there's a reason 4WD's are limited to 12-13" CV-wise, but I did see a cool thread on center mounting a 1st gen Tacoma to achieve more travel with 4WD. I think on Dezert Rangers. Custom CV's for that kind of thing are big bucks though. Herocopter on TTORA has a cool custom 4WD LT 3rd gen build in case you haven't ran across it.
 
The people utilizing more than the standard 12" of travel are usually going with a 10" coilover, custom shock towers/ hoops, and often you'll see engine cage so as to brace the hoops so they don't crack due to leverage and frame flex. I think your bumper or cross member at full stuff utilizing more up travel would essentially be a snow plow. I'm sure there's a reason 4WD's are limited to 12-13" CV-wise, but I did see a cool thread on center mounting a 1st gen Tacoma to achieve more travel with 4WD. I think on Dezert Rangers. Custom CV's for that kind of thing are big bucks though. Herocopter on TTORA has a cool custom 4WD LT 3rd gen build in case you haven't ran across it.

Yea I'm already planning on running 10" coilovers and having them go into the engine bay and have a cross brace to react the moment like you said. That's a good point about bottoming out from stuffing too far...

EDIT: A guy on DR said the same thing, the CVs can take more travel but you'll need huge wheels to keep from hitting the ground at full bump.
 
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Am I missing something or are most people just too lazy/don't want to take the time to seriously fab up and modify the front end so they can get 20+" of working 4WD?

[MENTION=79343]enigmadsm[/MENTION] [MENTION=96765]Illestreker[/MENTION] [MENTION=68342]djskorch[/MENTION] [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION]

EDIT: In short I want my front suspension to get as much travel as possible, which means it's ultimately limited by the CVs and I don't see anything showing that the 13" travel from bolt on kits is using anywhere near the maximum travel of the Tundra CVs. And I know a lot of other factors (cutting/reinforcing the frame, UCA rotating too high and into the coilover, fitting shocks to handle all that travel, steering travel requirements, etc.) come into play, but I can work around those.

Bottom line is how much time, money and headache do you want to invest. With all 3 of those, anything is possible. I think that you are correct in that most people dont want to have to start modifying frame rails and other components to maximize wheel travel. The bolt on long travel kits work well for what they are and what 99% of people who buy them want from them.

Looking at the picture above, I do agree that the limiting factor at this point for uptravel is the factory bump stops. I think without too much effort, you could gain another 2-3" by removing them and slightly modifying that area to handle a resivour bump. I think that trying to get to the magic 20" number without major modifications is unlikely however.

Our class 10 car pulls roughly 22-23" in the rear using cv's. Those axles are at least 50-60% longer than the tundra ones as well as not having to deal with steering components, shock mounting options and all the other limitations you will encounter with the runner.

Im not saying dont go for it. I would love to see a runner with 20" up front. Just be prepared for a lot of un thought of issues.
 
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What are your plans for the rear? I can tell you from experience the 14" or so I pull on my front is severely limited by the rear end. Unless your planning a full rear end overhaul as well it wouldn't be worth it to be able to cycle that much up front.
 
What are your plans for the rear? I can tell you from experience the 14" or so I pull on my front is severely limited by the rear end. Unless your planning a full rear end overhaul as well it wouldn't be worth it to be able to cycle that much up front.

^^^ Especially true for high speed stuff, you want more travel in the back than in the front to keep the front end floating over stuff while the back stays planted. Similar to a dirt bike over whoops. I know Sniv's usage is more mixed than the average LT rig, but it's something to factor in...
 

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