Snow chains on front wheels w/ LR UCAs

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I'm looking for input on what thickness of snow chain I can clear on my front tire configuration:

3" lift
SPC Light Racing upper control arms on full outboard position

Wheels & tires:
Either 265/75/16 on stock backspacing
or: 285/75/16 on 4" backspacing

I'd like to run an aggressive class U chain if possible.

As most snow chain discussions inevitably become a debate regarding whether chains are necessary:
Please resist the temptation to tell us how you've never needed chains in your life, that real men only drive bald tires in snow, or that you summited Mt Everest on all terrains with 2wd.

I'm looking for knowledge and experience regarding clearance with similar front suspension configurations. Thanks in advance!
 
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I'm looking for input on what thickness of snow chain I can clear on my front tire configuration:

3" lift
SPC Light Racing upper control arms on full outboard position

Wheels & tires:
Either 265/75/16 on stock backspacing
or: 285/75/16 on 4" backspacing

I'd like to run an aggressive class U chain if possible.

As most snow chain discussions inevitably become a debate regarding whether chains are necessary:
Please resist the temptation to tell us how you've never needed chains in your life, that real men only drive bald tires in snow, or that you summited Mt Everest on all terrains with 2wd.

I'm looking for knowledge and experience regarding clearance with similar front suspension configurations. Thanks in advance!

It's not possible to summit Mt Everest with any kind of tire. People can barely breathe up there. Let alone have enough oxygen for a 4runner to run.
 
No knowledge regarding your particular setup however most vehicles I have ever seen try to run chains on IFS results damage to the vehicle. Since you seems set on using them I would do lots of test fitting and checking with whatever you decide to buy.

Have you not had good results without chains, or just chaining up the rear axle?
 
Class S 1.46 in .59 in
Class U 1.97 in .91 in
Class W 2.50 in 1.50 in


Found this info for required clearance for each class of chain. First measurement if for clearance need on tread and second is clearance needed on each sidewall. I doubt you have that much room, but you might as well measure and find out.
 
From everything I've read it's not good to chain the front. It will result in more damage then what it's worth. Steering rack, uca, I too thought it would be nice to have all 4 chained up but after researching it a little I decided against it.

i guess if you got some total chaos upper control arms or something similar it would at least give you more room to play with, or maybe even a skinnier tire?
 
your clearance issues will be back at the fire wall and on the frame... the UCA should be the last of your concerns. im pretty sure you will only get away with it with cable type chains if that. if you want the added traction, buy a locker.
 
I've run all 4 tires chained up on a variety of rigs in the past and sometimes it can be awesome . But it WILL break something eventually. Even on solid axle trucks. I will not even chain the front of my plow truck anymore . But if you have to chain up just to get out of something, if you stick with 265/75s ( or narrower ) and limit flex, your fenders will probably be ok.
 
I don't have any experience with your setup , nor have I summited Everest, although I did laugh at the reference. I can tell you is that I have run chains on the front of my 87 (no idea on grade, sorry) on 31's with little to no lift, and been fine, until I heard that horrible sound of my fenders being eaten alive by the chains. If you gotta chain, I'd recommend not going down the path I did, as I did zero research prior, and had to replace fenders, body work, prime, spray, etc. hope this helps
 
Sounds like my chances are bleak. I'll just have to cycle the suspension and measure the clearances I guess.
 
I run 265/75 and I only chain the front up when I need to, I don't do high speed driving just slow crawling when I have the chains on and with stock upper control arms never heard rubbing, actually I rub more now with bald 265/75 and Spidertrax wheel spacers..
 
So I have an update on this, for any that were curious. Today, high winds pushed snow drifts upwards of 2 feet deep across my steep driveway. It was time to put this to the test.

My setup:
stock wheels
265/75/16 GY Silent Armor tires
RUD Grip 4x4 tire chains
Light Racing upper control arms, set out as far as possible

My tightest clearance within typical flex conditions was the spindle to tire measurement, at 20mm. I had at least 30mm clearance elsewhere.

My RUD chains are listed as needing 16mm clearance at the sidewall for safe operation.

Armed with these tidbits, I proceeded to install my second set of chains on the front tires. It appears that the 16mm requirement was conservative, as I have well over 4mm clearance at the spindle. Looks more like 10mm.



I drove 10 miles around the forest roads in my neighborhood, bashing thru snow drifts, windows down listening carefully for contact. Max speed was 23mph. I could detect no indication of contact anywhere. This is excellent news for me, since the snow plows don't visit all the roads I frequent.

 
Good to know and see. One more bit of food for thought; I have always considered chains as a last resort, ie to get me out of trouble, not into it... What happens when you get stuck chained up at all 4 corners? How do you plan on getting out then?

Let me say from experience that extracting/recovering a vehicle that is fully chained up (f/r) and stuck is a not always easy. So consider that before chaining up, or maybe just do the rear.

But again glad to see that you are not having any issues
 
I run 265/75 and I only chain the front up when I need to, I don't do high speed driving just slow crawling when I have the chains on and with stock upper control arms never heard rubbing, actually I rub more now with bald 265/75 and Spidertrax wheel spacers..

Have you summited Everest with said set up yet? If so, were you in two wheel drive?
 
Good to know and see. One more bit of food for thought; I have always considered chains as a last resort, ie to get me out of trouble, not into it... What happens when you get stuck chained up at all 4 corners? How do you plan on getting out then?

Let me say from experience that extracting/recovering a vehicle that is fully chained up (f/r) and stuck is a not always easy. So consider that before chaining up, or maybe just do the rear.

But again glad to see that you are not having any issues

I don't plan on making a habit of chaining up all 4, as most of the time 2 is sufficient. There are times when it will be handy though, deep snow or recovering other stuck vehicles are likely eventualities.

In my neighborhood, not having chains on can often mean body damage, stuck vehicles and pissed off locals, because it's barely wide enough for 2 vehicles in most places. Spinning 360s down the mountain road until you run into something to stop your momentum, be it a rock wall, guard rail or another vehicle just once is enough to cure most of their aversion for chains. I helped the local volunteer fire dept clear half a dozen vehicles stuck on our switchbacks and blocking the road Xmas day alone. None had chains on...holiday visitors to the mountain who were unprepared. The steepness of the road makes it a unique circumstance.

When my choice is either bash thru some wind drifted snow to get home, or turn around and sleep elsewhere that night, you know what I'm going to do. The winch sitting in the garage intended for my new bumper (getting powder coated any day now) and the shovel I carry should help me extract myself if necessary. If not, I now travel with all the equipment needed to either spend the night, or hike out to home or help. A very cold walk back one evening in early November helped me realized I was not carrying enough gear. My go bags now religiously come with me on any trip, regardless of how short I plan on being gone.
 

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