Snow Driving Tips
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CuzzinOlaf
New member
Let the engine slow the vehicle down if possible so you can help prevent sliding. Beware of ice under the snow and if you have a choice I say drive through the deeper snow instead of the not so deep stuff. Just my $.02.
ToolmanJohn
New member
Leave it in D
If you have a 4WD, leave that on too. ( V8 is always on ). Don't lock the center diff on the road, pointless, let the torsen center diff take care of traction duties along with the traction control system.
Leave yourself more distance to stop (obvious) in bad weather. The 4WD will get you going quick enough, but the braking is dependant on traction for sure. Your best move is to get a dedicated set of winter rubber. Those tires have better wet, snow traction than standard all season tires.
If you have a 4WD, leave that on too. ( V8 is always on ). Don't lock the center diff on the road, pointless, let the torsen center diff take care of traction duties along with the traction control system.
Leave yourself more distance to stop (obvious) in bad weather. The 4WD will get you going quick enough, but the braking is dependant on traction for sure. Your best move is to get a dedicated set of winter rubber. Those tires have better wet, snow traction than standard all season tires.
kgorsuch said:
generally you want to have the engine do braking for you. but the key is that you don't want to downshift too quickly. it's been so long since i've driven an automatic, i don't know how quickly or abruptly they downshift, but the best plan would be to shift it to a lower gear before you start down a hill. when i moved from my '75 jeep cj 3speed to a '95 nissan pickup 5 speed, i put it into a ditch about 3 weeks after i got it. in the jeep i was used to going down this one really steep hill in second gear and it wasn't an issue. with the nissan, i was approaching the hill in 3rd, after i started going down the hill i realized that 3rd wasn't going to hold me back. a smarter person would have lightly used the brakes to bring the speed down, but since i was 17 at the time, i didn't do that, instead i just downshifted to 2nd. well because there was ice under the snow all 4 wheels broke traction because of the quick downshift and around i went.
the key to winter driving, which i learned rather quickly. is to be smooth in everything you do. you never want to the tires to have to transfer much force to the road. start slowly, stop slowly, turn slowly, smoothness is the key.
ToolmanJohn
New member
I suggest no engine braking.
Reason being, as stated by mike_d , you CAN cause a loss of traction if the torque to keep the wheels turning is greater than the tourqe the road surface can provide.
Imagine cruising on a motorcycle at 60mph, then starting to downshift with the clutch pulled in because you are taking an exit. You kick down a few, forget where your gear position is, shift down some more, and let out the clutch at about 30mph. Rear wheel locks up, tire skids, sh]t your pants, pull the clutch, and save your bacon.
Even an automatic tranny can do this. Try driving 60 on the highway and dropping it into 1st. Engine will redline, and probably send you into a 4 wheel skid (in 4wd mode). Low traction conditions are unsafe circumstances for downshifting. It used to be a good technique in old RWD vehicles, because the rear brakes would tend to lock much sooner than the front. So gradually using engine braking to slow the vehicle would use the engine and transmission to slow the drive wheels gradually. Then came brake proportioning circuits, anti-lock brakes, taction control. Now there is no point in downshifting, anti-lock brakes keep the vehicle from skidding.
The only reason I would bother with engine braking would be on loooooong steep descents (think Mt Washington observatory road, damn scary). You could easily overheat the braking system on a normal vehicle this way, and lose braking power completely. Using the engine here makes sense, you can use engine torque to maintain a lower speed.
Reason being, as stated by mike_d , you CAN cause a loss of traction if the torque to keep the wheels turning is greater than the tourqe the road surface can provide.
Imagine cruising on a motorcycle at 60mph, then starting to downshift with the clutch pulled in because you are taking an exit. You kick down a few, forget where your gear position is, shift down some more, and let out the clutch at about 30mph. Rear wheel locks up, tire skids, sh]t your pants, pull the clutch, and save your bacon.
Even an automatic tranny can do this. Try driving 60 on the highway and dropping it into 1st. Engine will redline, and probably send you into a 4 wheel skid (in 4wd mode). Low traction conditions are unsafe circumstances for downshifting. It used to be a good technique in old RWD vehicles, because the rear brakes would tend to lock much sooner than the front. So gradually using engine braking to slow the vehicle would use the engine and transmission to slow the drive wheels gradually. Then came brake proportioning circuits, anti-lock brakes, taction control. Now there is no point in downshifting, anti-lock brakes keep the vehicle from skidding.
The only reason I would bother with engine braking would be on loooooong steep descents (think Mt Washington observatory road, damn scary). You could easily overheat the braking system on a normal vehicle this way, and lose braking power completely. Using the engine here makes sense, you can use engine torque to maintain a lower speed.
TranceKrayz
New member
Re: Re: Snow Driving Tips
well put! that's the advice they give on the news for winter driving. in fact, a good driver is a smooth driver, no matter what conditions. even those on the race tracks try to be as smooth as possible.
mike_d said:
well put! that's the advice they give on the news for winter driving. in fact, a good driver is a smooth driver, no matter what conditions. even those on the race tracks try to be as smooth as possible.
Iowa4Runner
New member
1. Get familiar with counter-steering.
2. Be aware that heavy braking can affect your ability to steer.
3. Think "low torque". Use light throttle and high gears ("D").
4. Generally you'll want VSC to be active, so don't the lock center differential unless you're stuck or plowing slowly though deep snow.
5. Be VERY careful in slushy conditions. It's tempting to speed up when the tire tracks in your lane break though to bare pavement. But if you drift a little and get your tires into heavy wet slush you're going to be in for a heck of a ride.
2. Be aware that heavy braking can affect your ability to steer.
3. Think "low torque". Use light throttle and high gears ("D").
4. Generally you'll want VSC to be active, so don't the lock center differential unless you're stuck or plowing slowly though deep snow.
5. Be VERY careful in slushy conditions. It's tempting to speed up when the tire tracks in your lane break though to bare pavement. But if you drift a little and get your tires into heavy wet slush you're going to be in for a heck of a ride.
boston_kevin
New member
well put ToyotaDoodz
Every year I take my vehicles out in a deserted parking lot (not near any light poles) that I know is in good condition and have fun. I reaffirms my knowledge about how the vehicle will do in a skid, turn, fast acceleration, sudden braking, etc.
AS far as engine braking. If you have the V8, try it in a parking lot first. VSC should correct any errant behavior you notice. If you have the V6 and you are not in 4WD, avoid it like the plague. I learned the hard way in my old 67 Mustang about engine braking in a rear-wheel drive vehicle (20 years ago). I am not sure how the VSC would handle this situation, but I am relatively sure it would be a little confused as the tail end passes the front.
Above all, do everything deliberately, smoothly, and slowly. If you are going to turn, go slow, decelerate smoothly and turn smoothly (not the wheel wrenching turns), then accelerate slow and smooth out of the turn. When you hesitate to do something, you can set yourself up for a problem (i.e. like deciding whether to accelerate up a hill or not when it is packed snow or ice).
Every year I take my vehicles out in a deserted parking lot (not near any light poles) that I know is in good condition and have fun. I reaffirms my knowledge about how the vehicle will do in a skid, turn, fast acceleration, sudden braking, etc.
AS far as engine braking. If you have the V8, try it in a parking lot first. VSC should correct any errant behavior you notice. If you have the V6 and you are not in 4WD, avoid it like the plague. I learned the hard way in my old 67 Mustang about engine braking in a rear-wheel drive vehicle (20 years ago). I am not sure how the VSC would handle this situation, but I am relatively sure it would be a little confused as the tail end passes the front.
Above all, do everything deliberately, smoothly, and slowly. If you are going to turn, go slow, decelerate smoothly and turn smoothly (not the wheel wrenching turns), then accelerate slow and smooth out of the turn. When you hesitate to do something, you can set yourself up for a problem (i.e. like deciding whether to accelerate up a hill or not when it is packed snow or ice).
Thanks for all the advice. I think I will definitely try the parking lot suggestion. I've never had an SUV before. I can handle my car fine in the snow - there are so many gizmos on this thing though I didn't know if there was anything I should know about (i.e., DAC, 4HI, 4LO, Differentials etc.).
Kenny g...
PS: With my luck, we'll have a dry winter and no snow...
Kenny g...
PS: With my luck, we'll have a dry winter and no snow...
Rayh78 said:
I was gonna say the same thing, if you can avoid any peak driving hours, whats the point in going to work to makea 100 bucks for a days work only to have some 9-5er crash into you and cause 5k in damage.
If you really wanna feel your vehicle out, hit a parking lot late night and slide around and figure it out, lock it up so you know how the ABS works and the tires grip, and the rest
I would definatly have to agree with the smooth driving tatic.
I am currently in Flagstaff for the winter and we have already received 35 inches of snow so far. I took my 98 4runner out while it was snowing last weekend and had some fun in the parking lots. I drove around in 4WD high and had the traction control on. I kept it slow into braking situations and around the turns I was slow on the gas. The roads had about 2-3 inches(after being plowed) and a little bit of ice. There were a lot of cars and trucks without 4WD going up hills and completely stoping because they were just spinning there rear tire. I almost crashed the 4runner the year before on ice just being stupid. I only had it in "D", hit the gas and totally lost control. I ended up missing a wall and skidded the other way over the curb. I could have been a lot worse. I think I have learned my lesson since then.
I took advantage of the big parking lots with 3-4 inches of snow. I put the 4runner in 4WD high and practiced braking in the snow, keeping control, and just wanted to see how the 4runner handled. I did all kinds of figure eights in the snow and it was alot of fun. I was heading back to the dorms when I was behind a Ford F250 that was spinning his tires as he went up the road. He came to a complete stop, hit the gas, and slid the back end right into the curb. He did not have 4WD. I just looked to see if anyone was coming behind and ahead of me and I just drove around him with no problem. It was funny. I would say that you should just stay at a slow speed and do not get on the gas too hard.
I am currently in Flagstaff for the winter and we have already received 35 inches of snow so far. I took my 98 4runner out while it was snowing last weekend and had some fun in the parking lots. I drove around in 4WD high and had the traction control on. I kept it slow into braking situations and around the turns I was slow on the gas. The roads had about 2-3 inches(after being plowed) and a little bit of ice. There were a lot of cars and trucks without 4WD going up hills and completely stoping because they were just spinning there rear tire. I almost crashed the 4runner the year before on ice just being stupid. I only had it in "D", hit the gas and totally lost control. I ended up missing a wall and skidded the other way over the curb. I could have been a lot worse. I think I have learned my lesson since then.
I took advantage of the big parking lots with 3-4 inches of snow. I put the 4runner in 4WD high and practiced braking in the snow, keeping control, and just wanted to see how the 4runner handled. I did all kinds of figure eights in the snow and it was alot of fun. I was heading back to the dorms when I was behind a Ford F250 that was spinning his tires as he went up the road. He came to a complete stop, hit the gas, and slid the back end right into the curb. He did not have 4WD. I just looked to see if anyone was coming behind and ahead of me and I just drove around him with no problem. It was funny. I would say that you should just stay at a slow speed and do not get on the gas too hard.
Gryphon
New member
The biggest thing I can thing of is: You may be able to get moving good, but remember, No-one can stop well on ice!
I am more concerned about other folks than myslef usually...tho the other day, we had a nice slick morning, went over a frost heave in the road that sloped off to the side and nearly took the ditch sideways! Not fun, but got straight again!
I am more concerned about other folks than myslef usually...tho the other day, we had a nice slick morning, went over a frost heave in the road that sloped off to the side and nearly took the ditch sideways! Not fun, but got straight again!
Steph-runner
New member
A good set of snow tire
like pirelli ice & snow or toyo open country g-02 +
like pirelli ice & snow or toyo open country g-02 + I agree with everything posted here - in summary I would say get yourself a set of winter tires (and rims to save your alloys) and drive smooooootthlly - plus look out for the idiots who are still remembering these two things at this time of year (winter driving always seems to be easier in February when everybody has remembered how to drive in winter or has taken themself off the road already)..
MicaBlue03
Member
Using all the gizmos while driving in the snow
Lots of good info here, and perhaps I can summarize for those who don't want to have to think about the technology:
*Switch to AWD if you have the multimode system of the V6s. If you want, you can leave it in this mode all winter. Other than that, no need to fiddle with the gizmos at all.
*Drive as smoothly as possible and think ahead (these two strategies are closely related!)
*If you get the yellow light flashing in the dash, this lets you know the system is taking some action on your behalf, and this suggests there is some significant slipping going on. If you're just motoring along and not aware of any problems, ask yourself if you should slow down. You may also hear some clicking or chattering when the system is working.
*If the system beeps at you, it's complaining that it can't get the vehicle to go the direction you want. Unless you're deliberately trying to throw the vehicle around for fun or otherwise get it out of shape, it may be time to back off. Or it may already be too late!
*The system works when you're in reverse, too. The 4Runner's wheel sensors are one of the few that can tell which direction the wheels are turning, and are active/accurate down to speeds like 0.1 MPH or so.
[This applies to the current generation 4Runners; I can't speak for the rest]
A few details:
The 4Runner system (stability control, traction control, throttle-by-wire, antilock brakes, electronic brakeforce distribution, brake assist, Torsen center differential, etc.) is an excellent one, though a bit conservative. That's why there's generally no need to do anything but put the vehicle in 4WD and pay attention to blinking lights or beepers. And drive carefully, of course.
Practice on a slick surface (snowy parking lot or hill) is fun and enlightening, but not essential. The system is designed so that it doesn't require your understanding or active intervention. BTW, I don't think there is a significant benefit to shifting out of D, but perhaps a lower gear would make long downhills a little easier
If you're bashing ahead through deep snow and beginning to lose momentum (especially if you think it's because of de-throttling), you can try locking the differential. Spinning tires (normally prevented by traction control) can be helpful in deep snow or mud.
Lots of good info here, and perhaps I can summarize for those who don't want to have to think about the technology:
*Switch to AWD if you have the multimode system of the V6s. If you want, you can leave it in this mode all winter. Other than that, no need to fiddle with the gizmos at all.
*Drive as smoothly as possible and think ahead (these two strategies are closely related!)
*If you get the yellow light flashing in the dash, this lets you know the system is taking some action on your behalf, and this suggests there is some significant slipping going on. If you're just motoring along and not aware of any problems, ask yourself if you should slow down. You may also hear some clicking or chattering when the system is working.
*If the system beeps at you, it's complaining that it can't get the vehicle to go the direction you want. Unless you're deliberately trying to throw the vehicle around for fun or otherwise get it out of shape, it may be time to back off. Or it may already be too late!
*The system works when you're in reverse, too. The 4Runner's wheel sensors are one of the few that can tell which direction the wheels are turning, and are active/accurate down to speeds like 0.1 MPH or so.
[This applies to the current generation 4Runners; I can't speak for the rest]
A few details:
The 4Runner system (stability control, traction control, throttle-by-wire, antilock brakes, electronic brakeforce distribution, brake assist, Torsen center differential, etc.) is an excellent one, though a bit conservative. That's why there's generally no need to do anything but put the vehicle in 4WD and pay attention to blinking lights or beepers. And drive carefully, of course.
Practice on a slick surface (snowy parking lot or hill) is fun and enlightening, but not essential. The system is designed so that it doesn't require your understanding or active intervention. BTW, I don't think there is a significant benefit to shifting out of D, but perhaps a lower gear would make long downhills a little easier
If you're bashing ahead through deep snow and beginning to lose momentum (especially if you think it's because of de-throttling), you can try locking the differential. Spinning tires (normally prevented by traction control) can be helpful in deep snow or mud.
MicaBlue03
Member
Essential snow driving tip
jharris2, you're right and I feel a bit foolish for not mentioning that. In most populated areas it seems the principal hazard is one of the multitudes of "other guys" who will complicate your life and lead to body repair.
Amen to watching out for the overconfident folks. On a ghastly slick night a few years ago I was motoring along I-5 carefully when someone zipped past me going maybe twice as fast as sensible. I later had the satisfaction (I guess that's the right word) of watching him do a 360 deg. spin a little way ahead of me, tagging both the front and rear ends of his sedan. Mostly just bashed bumpers, but probably painful to explain to his insurance company.
jharris2, you're right and I feel a bit foolish for not mentioning that. In most populated areas it seems the principal hazard is one of the multitudes of "other guys" who will complicate your life and lead to body repair.
Amen to watching out for the overconfident folks. On a ghastly slick night a few years ago I was motoring along I-5 carefully when someone zipped past me going maybe twice as fast as sensible. I later had the satisfaction (I guess that's the right word) of watching him do a 360 deg. spin a little way ahead of me, tagging both the front and rear ends of his sedan. Mostly just bashed bumpers, but probably painful to explain to his insurance company.
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