So I did my own oil change....

T4Argh

New member
...for the first time on my 2013 4runner, thanks to [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]'s very helpful write up. FYI-It has been serviced by 3 different dealers since I've owned the car and now has 73k miles.

No surprise at all, but there are some issues.

Biggest issue, is that the filter housing plug is stuck on there. It may have been over tightened? But I don't see how it can be tighter than the cap itself since it only needs 18ft/lbs and the plug only 10ft/lbs? Have you guys ever experienced a seized up filter housing plug? I was going to try and carefully remove it but I was afraid I'd be stranded with a broken filter housing cap. So, I left it and decided to source a new cap/plug.

Other issues, are that a couple skid plate bolts are stripped. Not the actual bolt itself but threads that the bolt screws into. Actually, one bolt was replaced (different coating) because the threads were stripped. Seems like an easy fix...BUT how hard is it to remove a few simple bolts?? WTF? I already had one dealer strip my wheel lock key because he used a friggin impact gun to get the lugs off. He even tried to send me off with missing lugs even after I explained that I would be going on a 1000 mile roadtrip with a family of four in the car and fully loaded with luggage and gear.

Now before you flame, I usually do my own oil changes. I've done them all with my previous cars. I recently just got my garage cleaned out and the floors sealed. I finally have the room to do some minor maintenance. Oh yea, newborn babies will eat up your time too. Just too busy sometimes.

Now, I know I can't prove which dealership nor will they ever admit to it but what can I do about the seized up filter cap plug? They'll probably blame me for it since I was the last one to work on it. Can I warranty it? I checked online for a new cap/plug assembly and all sources seem to sell it with a new filter/o-rings and rings out to about 90 bucks.

thanks for letting me vent....

J
 
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*Never hurts to ask the dealer (last one that did the work) but I wouldn’t expect much
*Can you order a new cap and housing assembly, have it on hand and then try harder to remove the plug from the cap? If successful then you can return the new unit if you break the old just reinstall the new and call it a $90 learning experience and move on
 
*Never hurts to ask the dealer (last one that did the work) but I wouldn’t expect much
*Can you order a new cap and housing assembly, have it on hand and then try harder to remove the plug from the cap? If successful then you can return the new unit if you break the old just reinstall the new and call it a $90 learning experience and move on

yea, I'll get a new cap and keep it on standby in case the old cap breaks. seems to be my only option. I really do not want to deal with those service guys.
 
Mine is also seized together, but I'm pretty sure I'm the one who did it. My last two oil changes I just left the cap in place and took the housing off as a unit. I didn't want to risk breaking the plastic housing. I do know I'll eventually need to get them apart to replace the little O-ring.

Let us know how your attempt works out.
 
FWIW, I don't remove the filter cap drain plug, I just remove the cap as a whole. Oil gets everywhere either way so I might as well skip a couple steps. The only thing I don't know is if the O-ring will degrade over time. Guess I'll find out. I still wish Toyota would've left the filter on the top side of the motor. That was ideal.

As for the skid plate bolts, yes, they break and strip super easy. I would just get a tap one size up and make new threads and get some new bolts.
 
I never bother with the cap either, makes a bigger mess to try to drain the cartridge.. just take off the filter housing and you'll be good. (just have a drain pan ready)
As for the skid plate just re-tap it as mentioned above..
My first oil change ever on the truck the tech went out of his way to cross thread 2 of the bolts... They'll hear about it next time I'm there.
 
I hate changing the oil in my 4 Runner. Biggest pain in the ass of any vehicle I have ever owned. The good news is that I now have a new fingernail after changing it the last time when the ratchet slipped.
 
Try a rubber strap around the housing and the socket wrench in the plug. Think of one of those jar lid remover things.
 
An oil filter housing plug that won't budge is just fine with me. Now all I need is a 3/8" ext. and a breaker bar to spin off the whole housing.
Once the housing is off, tilt to drain.
Use the plug instead of the so-called special tool to reinstall.
I have 2 of these "special tools" and for now, do not need them for the 4Runner. Still need them for the 3rd Gen Avalon as it's oil filter housing drain plug breaks loose.
Some are too snug; some aren't.
 
They really need to ban rattle guns at dealerships... I mean its one thing to remove stubborn wheel lugs with, it is completely different too, and not even start by hand, but ram and rattle the f'ker home. Seriously lazy right there.

I watched, mind you no one else behind me in line, waiting or anything, there was no rush, use an impact wrench to put my skid plate back on. I mean I did see him adjusted the pressure down but still, hand thread it for at least couple of spins for f'ks sake. Like I want to re-thread or heli-coil that on a brand new truck.
 
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Lube guys here at work are real bad about cross threading bolts when putting skid plates back on. They just put the bolt on their driver bit and go at it with an impact drill. But I'd definitely give the dealer some shit for it, especially on a newer vehicle.
 
I have always been a Valvoline guy, anyone running synpower or max life full synthetic in their rigs? I always ran it in my Tacoma, but that had the 5,000 mile change interval
 
...for the first time on my 2013 4runner, thanks to [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]'s very helpful write up. FYI-It has been serviced by 3 different dealers since I've owned the car and now has 73k miles.

No surprise at all, but there are some issues.

Biggest issue, is that the filter housing plug is stuck on there. It may have been over tightened? But I don't see how it can be tighter than the cap itself since it only needs 18ft/lbs and the plug only 10ft/lbs? Have you guys ever experienced a seized up filter housing plug? I was going to try and carefully remove it but I was afraid I'd be stranded with a broken filter housing cap. So, I left it and decided to source a new cap/plug.

Other issues, are that a couple skid plate bolts are stripped. Not the actual bolt itself but threads that the bolt screws into. Actually, one bolt was replaced (different coating) because the threads were stripped. Seems like an easy fix...BUT how hard is it to remove a few simple bolts?? WTF? I already had one dealer strip my wheel lock key because he used a friggin impact gun to get the lugs off. He even tried to send me off with missing lugs even after I explained that I would be going on a 1000 mile roadtrip with a family of four in the car and fully loaded with luggage and gear.

Now before you flame, I usually do my own oil changes. I've done them all with my previous cars. I recently just got my garage cleaned out and the floors sealed. I finally have the room to do some minor maintenance. Oh yea, newborn babies will eat up your time too. Just too busy sometimes.

Now, I know I can't prove which dealership nor will they ever admit to it but what can I do about the seized up filter cap plug? They'll probably blame me for it since I was the last one to work on it. Can I warranty it? I checked online for a new cap/plug assembly and all sources seem to sell it with a new filter/o-rings and rings out to about 90 bucks.

thanks for letting me vent....

J
Feel your pain and you are in good company. I did my first change on my baby yesterday after Toyota care ran out. Found the driver side skid plate bolt sheared and a piece of rubber wedged in the plate to keep it from rattling. I purchased a Tap/Die set for 8 x1.25 metric thread and took care of it. Cleaned up the other bolt threads and put anti seize on the threads. Also for my troubles, cleaned the congealed mass of oil left from the dealership changes. I've had my T4R just under 2 years and will do most of the routine maintenance moving forward.
 
It's not that difficult.

I've only done it three or four times so far. Maybe it will get easier...

As for vehicles, I've only owned 20 or so but I can promise you that this is the worst to change the oil in.
 
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Feel your pain and you are in good company. I did my first change on my baby yesterday after Toyota care ran out. Found the driver side skid plate bolt sheared and a piece of rubber wedged in the plate to keep it from rattling. I purchased a Tap/Die set for 8 x1.25 metric thread and took care of it. Cleaned up the other bolt threads and put anti seize on the threads. Also for my troubles, cleaned the congealed mass of oil left from the dealership changes. I've had my T4R just under 2 years and will do most of the routine maintenance moving forward.

:wow2:

i would be quite unhappy (:hurt:) about it if this was my truck. you seem to be taking it quite well. guess you are better than me. lol
 
This thread inspired me to do my own oil change as usual, I was getting lazy and was going to use the dealer for the free oil change but I dont trust them due to my past experiences and reading about so many others. Took my time and took pride in a job well done ! no missing bolts , nothing cross threaded , I put a little anti-seize on the bolts :) used the correct oil filter wrench. Genuine Toyota synthetic motor oil and Toyota filter. Cleaned up after myself. Can't tell it was ever touched.
all is good
 
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i'm sure there are good dealers service departments out there but I have yet to find one and threads like this are the reason that I do all my own stuff.
 
Stuck Big Time

Yep, Mine is stuck and is not coming off. My indicator is easily 1" past where the one in Antman's pic is. No question it will be broken or damaged getting it off. I put a breaker bar on it...and the entire housing is flexing and moving and I can see the plastic starting to move on the lugs. My local mechanic said "No way I'm touching that because it will strip or break" same with the Quick Lube.

Calling the dealer who sold me the rig and did the last oil change (still under warranty) to have them fix the issue. What really sucks is having to drive four hours one way.
 
Yep, Mine is stuck and is not coming off. My indicator is easily 1" past where the one in Antman's pic is. No question it will be broken or damaged getting it off. I put a breaker bar on it...and the entire housing is flexing and moving and I can see the plastic starting to move on the lugs. My local mechanic said "No way I'm touching that because it will strip or break" same with the Quick Lube.

Calling the dealer who sold me the rig and did the last oil change (still under warranty) to have them fix the issue. What really sucks is having to drive four hours one way.

Bastards.
 

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