So I did my own oil change....

reelamin said:
Yep, Mine is stuck and is not coming off. My indicator is easily 1" past where the one in Antman's pic is. No question it will be broken or damaged getting it off. I put a breaker bar on it...and the entire housing is flexing and moving and I can see the plastic starting to move on the lugs. My local mechanic said "No way I'm touching that because it will strip or break" same with the Quick Lube.

Calling the dealer who sold me the rig and did the last oil change (still under warranty) to have them fix the issue. What really sucks is having to drive four hours one way.
Click to expand...

I got a 2015 SR5 last summer, and took it to the dealer for the first oil change (free!). It was time for the second oil change, so I took it last Friday, 3/30, to the guy that has done my routine maintenance for years. Apparently, when his tech put the cap back on, he broke one of the "ears" so I've been losing a pretty good amount of oil. We went out of town on 3/31, so I took it to a few places to try to get it fixed. None of them could remove the cap. So, my guy has it again today because I'm stubborn like that (if he broke it, he's going to fix it). If he can get the cap off he'll replace it, but he admitted that he might have to replace the entire housing. And he's going to clean up the undercarriage...there's oil everywhere under there.
 
spbridenstine said:
I got a 2015 SR5 last summer, and took it to the dealer for the first oil change (free!). It was time for the second oil change, so I took it last Friday, 3/30, to the guy that has done my routine maintenance for years. Apparently, when his tech put the cap back on, he broke one of the "ears" so I've been losing a pretty good amount of oil. We went out of town on 3/31, so I took it to a few places to try to get it fixed. None of them could remove the cap. So, my guy has it again today because I'm stubborn like that (if he broke it, he's going to fix it). If he can get the cap off he'll replace it, but he admitted that he might have to replace the entire housing. And he's going to clean up the undercarriage...there's oil everywhere under there.
Click to expand...

Am I understanding correctly that they are using those housing wrenches that only grab the ears? If so, get a tight fitting TOY640 off Amazon and you should be able to twist that thing right off there with a breaker bar.
 
KP Texan said:
Am I understanding correctly that they are using those housing wrenches that only grab the ears? If so, get a tight fitting TOY640 off Amazon and you should be able to twist that thing right off there with a breaker bar.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what they used to take it off. And, if I had to bet, I'd say that the damage was done when putting it back on. I'll print the Amazon listing for that TOY640 and give it to the guy. Thanks!
 
To OP:
On first oil change (I am a second owner-first owner serviced truck [MENTION=47655]toyota[/MENTION] dealership only) I had the same issue: filter housing plug was stuck… I have tried removing that plug to no avail- including using belt (strap) wrench to hold the oil housing… so I left plug in there until the second oil change.
That is when I put the electric Impact Wrench on the plug while filter housing was still on the truck… plug came right off with no effort at all and since I am doing my own oil changes I had no issues taking that plug off from that point on.

Sucks that you have skid plate bolts stripped… like you said it is fairly easy fix… and issue like that are main reasons why I am doing work on my truck by myself including oil changes…
 
T4Argh said:
....Other issues, are that a couple skid plate bolts are stripped. Not the actual bolt itself but threads that the bolt screws into. Actually, one bolt was replaced (different coating) because the threads were stripped. Seems like an easy fix...BUT how hard is it to remove a few simple bolts??
J
Click to expand...

It is my belief that the weld nuts in the sub-frame were out of specification, or possibly damaged during the nut welding process. I strongly recommend using a M8x1.25mm tap (lubricated with oil) to run all of the skid plate weld nuts. Then, ditch those stock bolts for something stainless or phosphate coated.
 
My drain is also seized on my cap as well. It has been since I’ve owned the truck. This may just be a common issue but it’s an easy work around to just remove the whole cap as a unit. If you do it slowly enough you can really limit any mess. It doesn’t bother me at all and I won’t spend the money on a new one when there’s otherwise nothing wrong with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
"Free" oil changes and the Baxter option

I had similar experiences with the local Toyota dealer when I got my two "FREE" oil changes. There's no free lunch. They stripped or jammed the front engine skid plate bolts so badly I could not get them to turn. I bought an impact wrench to get more torque and ended up stripping the heads into a round head. I had to install my new lift so I cut the skid plate around 3 of the 4 bolts so I could pull it off. Once the skid plate was cut away I was able to turn the nuts using a chisel and hammer on one side of the head. The OEM skid plate was a total loss.

I haven't changed the oil yet because I'm working on a remote oil filter location using a Baxter Performance machined part. The idea is to eliminate the filter canister and use a spin-off filter. Baxter makes two ways to accomplish this. Either you put a machined aluminum adapter where the canister was and use a spin-off filter where the canister used to be - or you use a slightly different adapter and run AN-10 hoses up to a machined aluminum base to connect a remote spin-off oil filter mounted up in the engine bay. I wanted the oil filter out from under the engine and not on top of the new RCI skid plate so I chose the later method, which is much harder to assemble and install than the adapter that holds the spin-off filter below where the canister used to be, but above the skid plate. After a few evenings of installing the remote adapter and making hose connections, I'm not quite done or I would post a photo of it.

Here's a thread about the metal canister and the Baxter Performance parts. Read down the first two or three pages to see a photo of the two Baxter options installed.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/251249-changing-metal-oil-canister.html
 
The only way to fly. :)

WP_20180220_17_27_59_Pro_LI_zpsz7xco0mw.jpg




.
 
WVhillbilly said:
I have not changed the oil in mine yet as I just bought it.
But that looks to be much simpler than the factory set up.
Click to expand...

Convenience looks great there... but God almighty, you better hope no rock or stump bends your skidplate enough to make any contact...

...Cuz first contact looks like it'll now be with that oil filter, with how far the adapter sticks out.

If that happens, you will be looking at a pretty big oil slick on the rocks and a grenaded engine.

Might want to upgrade to an aftermarket 1/4" skid...
 
1996_Valencia_Owen said:
Convenience looks great there... but God almighty, you better hope no rock or stump bends your skidplate enough to make any contact...

...Cuz first contact looks like it'll now be with that oil filter, with how far the adapter sticks out.

If that happens, you will be looking at a pretty big oil slick on the rocks and a grenaded engine.

Might want to upgrade to an aftermarket 1/4" skid...
Click to expand...

[MENTION=96475]zonzin[/MENTION] showed us other images of his filter adapter in the thread I linked above. It's farther from the skid plate than it appears in this photo. And that's an RCI 1/4" skid plate in the photo. See the thread I linked in my post above.

Your point is well taken though. That's partly why I chose to use the other Baxter option and run AN-10 hoses up to an oil filter adapter in the engine bay. It's only an inch or two lower than the black Baxter ring in zonin's photo.

If you hit your 1/4" skid plates hard enough to bend them up 2 to 3 inches, you're driving beyond your limits.
 
1996_Valencia_Owen said:
Convenience looks great there... but God almighty, you better hope no rock or stump bends your skidplate enough to make any contact...

...Cuz first contact looks like it'll now be with that oil filter, with how far the adapter sticks out.

If that happens, you will be looking at a pretty big oil slick on the rocks and a grenaded engine.

Might want to upgrade to an aftermarket 1/4" skid...
Click to expand...

I have a Samurai to beat through the rocks. Samurai engines are cheap and you can pull them without a lift. :D
 
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