So I own a 3d printer. Nylon spacers?

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I would be VERY careful about this, I would recommend trying to find out what material the majority of the industry is using for spacers in automotive applications and then seeing if your machine is compatible/capable of utilizing that material. I also believe a lot of these components are injection molded and/or pressure formed so you may need to factor that into your design vs. say something that's just glued together (in a sense, I know that's a very crude analogy). The last thing you want to do is use something that may deform, fracture, and/or degrade prematurely under the abuse a suspension takes.

As for the dimensions, you could probably just add about .5~1" to the diameter of the spring's outermost diameter and then factor in things like coil seal and mouting surface to coil seat bucket after that.
 
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I am sure there will be a time that I will look back and laugh at being in awe of a 3-d printer. Much like the first time I heard of a machine that you could watch and record movie, a machine you could put food in and have it hot in seconds, or a phone that you could talk on in your car. That is some interesting technology. How much does something like that cost? How much does it cost to print things?
 
Sungod said:
I am sure there will be a time that I will look back and laugh at being in awe of a 3-d printer. Much like the first time I heard of a machine that you could watch and record movie, a machine you could put food in and have it hot in seconds, or a phone that you could talk on in your car. That is some interesting technology. How much does something like that cost? How much does it cost to print things?
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There's DIY kits that run a couple grand and do a good job, upto I believe large units that are a hundred thousand or more. A lot of companies are using 3D printers for prototyping and pre-production manufactuering as its more affordable than traditional methods from what I have read. There's even 3D printers that print with metal!

Operating cost is mostly electricity, material, and time; if you own your own unit its mostly electricity and material. I believe some places charge around something like $100-200 per pound of material used? I may be wrong.
 
I'm a grad student and just set one up in our lab. We got a desktop printer that can print with just about any plastic material, dual extruder heads, and a heated bed. The printer costs about $1500 and the material is $33/kg.
 
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I am going for it! Can anyone get me some measurments of one and some pics of where they go. I have yet to take my suspension apart. I will be replacing it all in a month. I can do mechanical thins so if it breaks I'll just take it out.

My printer started at $900 shipped. I can print any material on the market right now after a hot end upgrade(the part that melts the filament).

I have probably stuck $200-$400 in parts to upgrade it. None are necessary it just makes it print like a machine worth twice of 3 times the value.

The nylon I will be using is extremely tough. I am surprised by it.

Delamination and Impact testing of parts 3D Printed in taulman 645 - YouTube
High Speed Video of initial pre-fracture test of 3D Printed Polymer - YouTube
 
cacarbuff said:
Hey [MENTION=46404]stevos758[/MENTION]... I'm looking for a machine for home use. Which one did you go with?
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Solidoodle 3

Solidoodle 3D Printer, 3rd Generation

Read up on it here.

SoliForum - 3D Printing Community

This is all I know. There are a few other options out there but I like mine. You have to be able to tinker with things. It's not completely plug and play. If you have any mechanical skills or computer knowledge you can google how to fix/mod/calibrate it.

If you are serious about printing all materials buy an E3D hotend right away.

If you need any help let me know.

There is a guy on the forums that will be selling his. He has it fully modded out and is getting awesome prints.

Any interest in my SD3 (Page 1) ? Buy/Sell/Trade ? SoliForum - 3D Printing Community
 
Personally I don't think that the risk is worth the reward.

The resolution of a household 3d printer makes the parts more prone to fracture and ultimately failure as compared to an injection molded part. If the part were to completely fail it could lead to other damages, which could potentially cost you a lot more money then you would save. The last thing that I would point out would be the material differences between 3D printed parts (most likely PLA or ABS) and either machined aluminum or polyurethane.

To me the $40+SH cost of a set of Daystar rear spacers beats having to draft the parts, successfully print them out, and added the peace of mind going with a proven product.

Just my 2 cents, but good luck with the project going forward and keep us all posted.
 
3d PRINTERS

Hello friends, it is very impressive what these printers and their different models have the ability to print, I still hallucinate, they are very good, of course depends on the brand and what you want to print. All it has to do with 3D models for me is a universe to discover. I have a website where I have a variety of <a href="https://www.stlfinder.com/"> 3dModels </a> , that I would like you to view and also share your opinions with friends: https://www.stlfinder.com/ .
 
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