So the 4runner fails headlight tests with a "poor" rating

Westerly said:
Put some Philips Extreme Vision bulbs in the high and low beam sockets and be done. I am very picky about night lighting and these throw plenty of light and are made for projector housings. I'm very satisfied after the change from oem bulbs. And zero problems with oncoming vehicles.
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x2 on this. Bought a set of LED upgrades from HIDextra, installed, left on a trip from MN to UT. Could not believe how terrible the light was - much worse than stock halogen bulbs due to the position of the LED circuits on the sides and how they were positioned after locking into place. Fortunately, kept the OEM halogens in the truck and swapped them mid-trip. Put Phillips CyrstalVision Ultra in the lows and Sylvania SilverStar zXe in the highs and it's way better than either of the others.

This is one area that I definitely miss my JKU, the aftermarket plug-n-play headlights had some brilliant choices (pun intended).
 
It's funny, I actually think the 10-13 halogen headlights outperform the 14+ projector retrofitted with HID bulbs. I did the facelift and retrofit a couple of months ago and miss my old headlights already. Maybe one day I'll get off my couch and retrofit some decent projectors in there.
 
CF_Machete said:
[MENTION=47784]westwind77[/MENTION] the stock suspension on the SR5 is way too soft and can be dangerous when stopping at a high rate of speed. Driving in to work I would be cruising comfortably with traffic between 70 -80 mph and then out of no where some one would slam on their brakes and cause every one to follow suit. The dreaded nose dive would ensue and the rear end would rise... reducing traction on drive wheels and causing the ass to fish tail.

After swapping the suspension, I no longer had to carry an extra set of shorts with me on my daily commute.
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7 years ago I dug into the 5100 as I was concerned as well, but never pulled the trigger. I know it is soft, and I have had to lay into the brakes a number of times hard, but never felt a lose of control. No going to invest at this time to do a trade in soon.

RedSled said:
I just thought you might be a little concerned with maybe someone running off the road, or something from not being able to see.
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It is the occasional flash, not every vehicle, or I would have had them inspected and adjusted by now. Most of the flashes from from very low vehicles. My lights are perfect according to the state inspections.

LimeLED said:
If you regularly have that much weight in the back, then you need to properly aim them with the weight in the back.
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The problem is I will run with stuff in the back for off and on, changes by the day. I am not going to adjust my lights every few days! Toyota should have put a stiffer suspension in these things! A small amount of weight should not have such a drastic change on these things. It always has since new so they are not worn either.
 
Westerly said:
Put some Philips Extreme Vision bulbs in the high and low beam sockets and be done. I am very picky about night lighting and these throw plenty of light and are made for projector housings. I'm very satisfied after the change from oem bulbs. And zero problems with oncoming vehicles.
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x3 on this.

Put in a HID kit into my '17 without retrofitted housings and was nearly blinding people into the next millennium while sitting behind them at lights (I do mostly city driving). I could actually see into their car and see the blinding reflection from my lights into their eyes from the beam hitting their rearview mirror. Ended up putting in Philips Xtremevision in my low beams and was much happier. It wasn't blinding, and I could see farther.
 
theothereng said:
x3 on this.

Put in a HID kit into my '17 without retrofitted housings and was nearly blinding people into the next millennium while sitting behind them at lights (I do mostly city driving). I could actually see into their car and see the blinding reflection from my lights into their eyes from the beam hitting their rearview mirror. Ended up putting in Philips Xtremevision in my low beams and was much happier. It wasn't blinding, and I could see farther.
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Are these higher wattage bulbs the type that used to melt headlight harnesses back in the day?
 
Westerly said:
Put some Philips Extreme Vision bulbs in the high and low beam sockets and be done. I am very picky about night lighting and these throw plenty of light and are made for projector housings. I'm very satisfied after the change from oem bulbs. And zero problems with oncoming vehicles.
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Are you using the H4 or the H7?
 
alcomedic said:
when adjusting and turning the screw is it clockwise UP and counter clockwise DOWN?
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When using a screwdriver via the top of the housing through the channel it is clockwise = down and counterclockwise = up. I'm 85.6% sure this is correct as I was testing it the other day. Hopefully, someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Each time I think about it I confuse myself.
 
HeartGuy said:
Are these higher wattage bulbs the type that used to melt headlight harnesses back in the day?
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HIDs? Could be. I'm not well versed on older model T4Rs, but I'm sure someone has commented about this. The ballast I had was crazy hot too all the time, which was concerning. So, another reason I took them out.


Philips xtremevision are halogen bulbs. OEM for low beams on the '17 is H11, which is what I used. They are 55w, standard. They just deliver more light/are brighter than standard $5 halogen bulbs (or the ones that came from the factory on mine. I called them "diarrhea brown", but to each their own). Philips makes different "levels" of halogen bulbs, the brightest being their crystalvision line.
 
HeartGuy said:
Are these higher wattage bulbs the type that used to melt headlight harnesses back in the day?
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they come with relays, if you buy good ones like the XD kit the wiring is good and there is no need to worry about melting wires. Melting wires are an issue with cheap ebay kits or people not knowing what they are doing and trying to run high wattage on small wires.

The 35W kit is plenty bright, since the factory lights are 35 W you won't even need to use a relay. With the 55W kit you just use the relay so the factory wiring is just switching the relay (IMO the 55W would be too bright to use, but some people like them).
 
e60ral said:
they come with relays, if you buy good ones like the XD kit the wiring is good and there is no need to worry about melting wires. Melting wires are an issue with cheap ebay kits or people not knowing what they are doing and trying to run high wattage on small wires.

The 35W kit is plenty bright, since the factory lights are 35 W you won't even need to use a relay. With the 55W kit you just use the relay so the factory wiring is just switching the relay (IMO the 55W would be too bright to use, but some people like them).
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Thank you, good info.
 
e60ral said:
..... The 35W kit is plenty bright, since the factory lights are 35 W you won't even need to use a relay. With the 55W kit you just use the relay so the factory wiring is just switching the relay (IMO the 55W would be too bright to use, but some people like them).
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This. I put 55w. in my previous retrofit, and I didn't do it this time around. You really should use relays for 55w, making the install a little more work vs 35w. The ballasts cost more, plus you are also shortening the life of already expensive bulbs. All this, for not enough gain in lighting IMO.
 
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philsey said:
This. I put 55w. in my previous retrofit, and I didn't do it this time around. You really should use relays, making the install a little more work vs 35w. The ballasts cost more, plus you are also shortening the life of already expensive bulbs. All this, for not enough gain in lighting IMO.
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if you are doing the 35w with no relays you are still using the ballasts, you are just powering them off the stock wiring instead of the relay. I don't understand how that would shorten the life.
 
e60ral said:
if you are doing the 35w with no relays you are still using the ballasts, you are just powering them off the stock wiring instead of the relay. I don't understand how that would shorten the life.
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You misunderstood my post.

Powering 35w bulbs with a 55w ballast shortens the life of the bulb.
 
Not surprised, they are flat out horrible, first thing I noticed. Our Super Duty truck that is 10 years older has better headlights. Toyota saves the good headlights for their Lexus line.
 
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