So what do you do if you blow out a CV in the boonies?

Can you bump it while the wheel is still on the ground, then take it the rest of the way off after the wheel is off?

Right now I have 4.1 gearing in the front and 4.3 in the back so that doesn't help the CV's. I'll only engage it when I need to on soft surfaces but I doubt I'll have the front diff swapped in time.

Sounds like you need to be more focused on how to swap a transfer case in the boonies.
 
Once you swap your CV's a couple of times, you'll see that it's definitely a job you can do on the trail provided you have the right tools.
 
Replacing a CV is very easy with the right tools. I think the hardest thing replacing one on the trail would be making sure the vehicle is securely supported while you're working on it. I think it would pretty much ruin your day if your vehicle fell on you. With that said, it would be smart to carry some "cribbing", basically a bunch of short 4x4 and 2x4 sections to make a stacked box to support under the frame in case the vehicle weight shifts while raised with your hi-lift jack.

One of the main reasons I wanted to do the manual hub swap was to have the option to drive out in 2wd if I broke an axle if the terrain allowed it. If I don't have to fix it on the trail, that's great. I can do it on more stable ground when I get off the trail or do it at home. Manual hubs gives you that option. I believe this is one of the big benefits to this mod.
 
When you guys do trail repairs, what do you use to hold the spindle/axle while you are breaking that 150 ftlbs nut free? A helper pressing the brakes? Or some sort of long lever between the wheel studs? (I feel like that would damage it...)
If you have no other option, you just drop the truck back to the ground and loosen the nut after you have removed the dust cap and wheel hub cap.

-Charlie
 
If you have no other option, you just drop the truck back to the ground and loosen the nut after you have removed the dust cap and wheel hub cap.

Yup. Pull the dust cap, put the tire back on and set it back on the ground. That, or drop a heavy screwdriver in brake rotor.
 
In theory, if you pulled the driver side axle, and kept the TCase in 2WD, you could drive out without the diff rotating. Thus, you'd lose a little fluid out of the axle hole and maybe risk getting some water or debris in there. But, if the choice is either being stuck in the boonies or getting home, Id probably do that.
 
In theory, if you pulled the driver side axle, and kept the TCase in 2WD, you could drive out without the diff rotating. Thus, you'd lose a little fluid out of the axle hole and maybe risk getting some water or debris in there. But, if the choice is either being stuck in the boonies or getting home, Id probably do that.

OK. A few things here.

First, if you pull the driver side CV you have no way of attaching the hub to it. You could try and cut the CV in the field but trust me it's way easier to just replace the CV.

Second, you CAN drive on a busted CV. It's already broke so it'll just rotate and make a lot of clanking noise. It won't damage the hub or the carrier. I've driven on 2 broken CV's. It sucks but it's what I had to do at the time to get to camp. I replaced both within an hour and went about my marry way.

If you have no other choice your best option is to just drive out with the busted CV.
 
OK. A few things here.

First, if you pull the driver side CV you have no way of attaching the hub to it. You could try and cut the CV in the field but trust me it's way easier to just replace the CV.

Second, you CAN drive on a busted CV. It's already broke so it'll just rotate and make a lot of clanking noise. It won't damage the hub or the carrier. I've driven on 2 broken CV's. It sucks but it's what I had to do at the time to get to camp. I replaced both within an hour and went about my marry way.

If you have no other choice your best option is to just drive out with the busted CV.

Well you're the CV man, you probably broke more than anyone so I'll take those words of wisdom and get me a spare and learn to change it!
 
Well you're the CV man, you probably broke more than anyone so I'll take those words of wisdom and get me a spare and learn to change it!

IDK man. I think [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] both might have me beat.

It really is easy to swap. A cordless 1/2" impact really helps. That and a 18" pry bar for leveraging the CV out from the diff. Also carry a new cotter pin. You can re-use the old one if needed but they're pretty easy to break trying to remove them.
 
OK. A few things here.

First, if you pull the driver side CV you have no way of attaching the hub to it. You could try and cut the CV in the field but trust me it's way easier to just replace the CV.

Second, you CAN drive on a busted CV. It's already broke so it'll just rotate and make a lot of clanking noise. It won't damage the hub or the carrier. I've driven on 2 broken CV's. It sucks but it's what I had to do at the time to get to camp. I replaced both within an hour and went about my marry way.

If you have no other choice your best option is to just drive out with the busted CV.
Thanks for the correction! Not sure why I was thinking the hub was separately fixed into the knuckle.
 
IDK man. I think [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] both might have me beat.

It really is easy to swap. A cordless 1/2" impact really helps. That and a 18" pry bar for leveraging the CV out from the diff. Also carry a new cotter pin. You can re-use the old one if needed but they're pretty easy to break trying to remove them.

You still have me beat for most broken CV's in 1 trip though :flipoff:
 
You still have me beat for most broken CV's in 1 trip though :flipoff:

It's very possible that will be a record I hold for a long, long time.

To be fair, if you take the 4 I broke on the Dusy that's one every 8 miles. You managed 2 on Claw Hammer in less then a mile. lol
 
In theory, if you pulled the driver side axle, and kept the TCase in 2WD, you could drive out without the diff rotating.
With no outer CV in the hub, the wheel bearings are no longer preloaded and will fail in short order. I'd be willing to do that to pull out of the garage or something, but otherwise, you need to have the outer CV housing in place to drive any distance.

The 2WD front hubs and manual hub front hubs have a preload nut that you tighten on the back side to do what the outer CV does on the ADD trucks.

-Charlie
 

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