soft break pedal with full travel

[Sidney]

I am new to brake repairs so a friend of mine replaced the front right (passenger side) caliper,both front brake lines that meet the calipers,both rear brake cylinders,both rear brake lines and rear shoes.
After all that work he bled the brakes my going to both front caliper bleeder screws (new ones) and the new rear brake cylinders one by one while while I pressed on the brake pedal 4 times and hodling it on the forth but the brake pedal is still soft with full travel and while driving very little brakes.What is the proper way to bleed the brakes?also now when braking the vehicle shakes I never had that problem before,could tapping on both calipers with a hammer caused something to go wrong on the rotors?.
Thanks in advance for help & replies.

Sidney
Repair tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 239 000 KM

 

[TSP-MIKE]

When you bleed the brakes, you must start with the left rear wheel, then the right rear wheel, then the front right wheel, then the front left wheel. There is also a bleeder for the proportioning valve above the rear axle that you must bleed.

For the shaking, your rotors are warped. You need to take them out and get them resurfaced.

Mike

 

[4playin]

yeah, he's right on the rotors being warped (could also get warped from over-tightened lug nuts. And also right on bleeding, you want to start on the furthest wheel from the master cylinder and work your way towards it. The 4 pumps thing, I don't think that's enought to bleed all the air out. You can also gravity bleed your brakes by yourself if you want, its kinda messy, but a rag at each wheel, and loosen all your bleeder screws, and let them drip for about 15 minutes, but keep an eye on your fluid level, add some so you don't run it dry.