Solution: Sway bar bushing bracket with broken nut

JeratBP

Member
I tried replacing the swaybar bushings and the nuts inside the frame have broken loose. So I can’t get the bolts out and I can’t retighten them. What do I do?

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This is my solution - which was taken from this Curt Mfg YouTube video. Their solution says to use 1/2" bolts but that means enlarging the holes in the frame as well as the bushing brackets.

I ordered Automotive Grade 8 Carriage Bolts (3/8"-16 x 2"), Washers and Hex Nuts
I ordered the Curt Fish Wire Bolt Leader 3/8” from eTrailer.
I had my local metal fab company cut the Spacer Blocks to fit the 3/8" bolts - size: 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide x 3" long with a square hole to fit the 3/8" carriage bolt. The blocks and having them powder coated cost me $40.

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I have an off-road trip in a few weeks and will wait till after to try this solution. However, everything should fit as expected.
 
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I tried replacing the swaybar bushings and the nuts inside the frame have broken loose. So I can’t get the bolts out and I can’t retighten them. What do I do?

f5c194acd92b424a6276a1e0517667f4.jpg
I have the EXACT same issue. Never found a solution, just lived with a loose swaybar bracket that makes a little noise.

Sent from my ZTE B2017G using Tapatalk
 
cut the bolts off, drill out the hole and use a riv-nut. You will need an insertion tool and the right size for the bolts you want to use. I have the same problem and this is the route I a going to go after I get my frame painted this spring. For now I am running with no sway bar and its fine however, the road manners are better with it there.

I did quite a bit of research and this is the best possible solution to repair
 
I have the EXACT same issue. Never found a solution, just lived with a loose swaybar bracket that makes a little noise.

Sent from my ZTE B2017G using Tapatalk



I ended up disconnecting the sway bar links and my neighbor took a sawzall to the bolts for the bushing brackets. The sway bar has been removed.

I still want to reinstall the sway bar.
 
The rivnut idea is better, but I drilled a hole in my frame just large enough to get a nut over the bolt and wedged it with a screwdriver while tightening the bolt.
 
cut the bolts off, drill out the hole and use a riv-nut. You will need an insertion tool and the right size for the bolts you want to use. I have the same problem and this is the route I a going to go after I get my frame painted this spring. For now I am running with no sway bar and its fine however, the road manners are better with it there.

I did quite a bit of research and this is the best possible solution to repair




After some research and talking with our maintenance crew at work, I found the rivnuts may not have enough strength for the sway bar. So I continued my research.

I provided my solution in the first post.
 
I have the exact same problem. I did get a a higher load steel Rivnut for the job. I think I will be able to cut the bolt with a reciprocating saw and install the Rivnut correctly. My question is how am I going to remove the old nut attached to half a bolt that's in the frame. I verified that there is no hole that's big enough to fish it out. The only way I see is to remove the front end and see if it goes all the way to the bolt location. What I'm afraid of is that once cut, the loose nut and bolt stuck in the frame will start rattling when I drive and that will make me crazy.

Thanks,

Mark
 
I have the exact same problem. I did get a a higher load steel Rivnut for the job. I think I will be able to cut the bolt with a reciprocating saw and install the Rivnut correctly. My question is how am I going to remove the old nut attached to half a bolt that's in the frame. I verified that there is no hole that's big enough to fish it out. The only way I see is to remove the front end and see if it goes all the way to the bolt location. What I'm afraid of is that once cut, the loose nut and bolt stuck in the frame will start rattling when I drive and that will make me crazy.

Thanks,

Mark

You could always grab a $3 can of expanding foam for doors/windows and shoot it into the frame to encapsulate the nut/bolt to prevent rattles. Just a thought...
 
What entry point did you use to get the plates inside the frame?

Could you drill a hole through the top of the frame, insert a very long bolt and put a washer and nut on top of the frame?
 
Or use an angle grinder to remove the old bolt heads. Then drill straight up through the top of the frame. Get a longer bolt using larger washer on the top of the frame rail and drop the bolts in from the top side.
 
I removed the original stud, ran the largest tap that would fit/cut a thread into the hole in cross member, bought a bolt of same thread, cut off the hex head, put JB weld on the threads of the new stud, screwed it in several threads and applied some more JB weld around the base of the protruding stud, let cure and been holding for 4 years now.
 

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