Solved: Hard vacuum leak under DECELERATION

Yeah I've never messed with diagnosing drivetrain problems. So checking u joints is foreign to me. But I did already do what mentioned [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] . I shook the driveline and there was a smidge of play I'm talking small amount in the top one.

Even the transmission shop said that yes there is a small amount of play but the noise they are hearing and where they checked it out was not causing the sound I'm hearing.

I found a transmission, driveshaft, and rear differential from a 2002 4runner for 500 bucks. It had 152k miles on it.

The guy I got the engine from has the transmission, driveshaft, and rear differential for same price. The only catch is that his rear differential was rebuilt at some point.

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What noise exactly are you hearing? As this noise alluded you for quite a while.

So your going to just replace it all. Instead of just the piece with the issues. :)

Whatever works for you. :D

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What noise exactly are you hearing? As this noise alluded you for quite a while.

So your going to just replace it all. Instead of just the piece with the issues. :)

Whatever works for you. :D

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I'm not replacing it all. I'm just buying it all together because hey, spare parts. If my transmission craps out on me I'll at least have a spare.

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I won't prematurely call this a solved thread but I dropped the rear differential and there is slack between the ring and pinon gear.

That is most likely the source of the noise I'm hearing when decelerating.

Picking up entire spare drivetrain in the morning tomorrow.

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There is a acceptable amount of back lash between the ring and pinion gear. Usually noise accelerating or decelling indicate a bad bearing in the pinion or the carrier.


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Changed plans. Gunna pick up a new OEM differential from dealership Saturday morning. Lol

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Differential swapped out with a new OEM one noise is gone.

Funny how sound travels lol what sounds like it's up front was actually the rear end the entire tire.

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Amazing journey for a rear diff bearing failure.
I’d hate to go back through this thread and list out all the parts you replaced.

In my line of work we call that style troubleshooting the “shotgun approach”.

Good to hear you got it resolved.
 
200k is a solid lifespan for these diffs. They will keep spinning but the difference in noise is apparent once you put a fresh rebuild in.
 
Okay! I'm sure you guys missed this thread....lol

The devil has surfaced its head again. The noise when slowing down is back again albiet some new symptoms have introduced itself.

It's driveline vibration now at certain speeds. And, the moan and grown is back.

I haven't driven the 4runner much between then and now except when I had to drive it back home.

So a synopsis putted around in the truck after getting the new differential in. I must be tone deaf, because when I drove it around after putting the new differential in, the noise was gone. Well it came back a week after that, checked all my torque settings and everything, all was good.

I Ultimately just said screw it, everything works perfectly, if I got a noise for this long and nothing is out of ordinary, it will live on.

I brought my 4runner back home along with all my tools that I bought when I was working. Engine hoist, 20 ton shop press, transmission jack, press plates, bearing killers yada yada yada. All that was in the back.

Before making my trip back home, I was stressi thinking maybe the weight would upset something.Well to my amazement, the noise went away.

And that's when it hit me, it's my pinion angle. Which also affects where my slip yoke engages along the output shaft of the transmission.

With that in mind, due to the design of the slip yoke, and how it slides in and out over the output shaft, I don't think there is a end all be all solution to this. I wish it was the flanged style like the 4WD [emoji849]

Can someone explain the dynamic of the 4 link rear? Maybe it's 5 with the sway bar?

What happens to rear after when going from OEM suspension to lifted suspension.

I'm thinking when lift is added, the rear axle is pushed away and 3rd member is rotated downward.

When weight is added, rear axle gets closer, and 3rd member rotates back up.

And the noise got worse after the engine swap because I replaced my worn out transmission mount with a new one which made the angle worse.

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Your rear wheel bearings have many miles on them? People wonder why I leave most things bone stock. One reason as I was seeing what lifts do in long term and it's not good. Changing things has consequences. ;)

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Did you replace the universals while everything was apart since they are not greaseable?


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Nope. they didn't have any slack.

I'll just drive around with some cinder blocks lol

The rear springs are some eibach ones that came from Toytec.

They don't provide spring rates on their website but it says "on average 3inch lift is gained". Couple that comment with the fact I'm 2WD as I am probably on the higher side of things.

Maybe OME 906 or 890s plus or minus a few cinder blocks lol

Swapping springs is cheapest option right now although it seems to be more trial error if anything.

Adjustable Rear links is the second option but should be able to give me the results I want guaranteed but then it might buckle the spring. I don't have any rocks to climb in Houston just pot holes to not fall in to ( which is why I went with bigger tires) whatever is enough to get by is enough for me.

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A bad universal can do all the sounds you are explaining. As the one the 3rd member mostly goes first. So you mean to tell me that you changed a 3rd member that wasnt bad??

Oh major bummer. :(

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A bad universal can do all the sounds you are explaining. As the one the 3rd member mostly goes first. So you mean to tell me that you changed a 3rd member that wasnt bad??

Oh major bummer. :(

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Yes you are right.. new OEM 3rd member all for nothing.

But it is what it is....that's what I get for going to Google, finding the highest rated transmission shop near me, then taking their advice spending my own money and time to do the work and finding it did nothing. Lol story of my freaking life.

That's what I get for trying to get a quick answer. It could be worse. I could have gotten a remanufactured OEM transmission after that and still see it didn't change anything.

If anyone wants a 3rd member lol 224k miles 4.10. that will go to the same scrap yard that my engine went to if no one wants it lol

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Yes you are right.. new OEM 3rd member all for nothing.

But it is what it is....that's what I get for going to Google, finding the highest rated transmission shop near me, then taking their advice spending my own money and time to do the work and finding it did nothing. Lol story of my freaking life.

That's what I get for trying to get a quick answer. It could be worse. I could have gotten a remanufactured OEM transmission after that and still see it didn't change anything.

If anyone wants a 3rd member lol 224k miles 4.10. that will go to the same scrap yard that my engine went to if no one wants it lol

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Dont hard on yourself just learn from it. We all make mistakes in life as long as we learn from them is what matters. :)


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Yes you are right.. new OEM 3rd member all for nothing.

But it is what it is....that's what I get for going to Google, finding the highest rated transmission shop near me, then taking their advice spending my own money and time to do the work and finding it did nothing. Lol story of my freaking life.

That's what I get for trying to get a quick answer. It could be worse. I could have gotten a remanufactured OEM transmission after that and still see it didn't change anything.

If anyone wants a 3rd member lol 224k miles 4.10. that will go to the same scrap yard that my engine went to if no one wants it lol

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It’s a shame you don’t live closer to me. I’d consider it. I have 4.10’s as far as I can tell and that be something I could refresh and put a true-trac in it. My rear has 277k miles on it.


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Back from the dead. I put a 3/4inchb spacer on the driveshaft.

Here is what it was before the spacer
9b60d8371bd0d7979725c49d8260b6ee.jpg


This is the driveshaft shoved all the way in with no spacer. This one was trick because I had to take the picture while holding the driveshaft
062fe038316506877bbd9819c7fbf6c7.jpg


This is when I have the 3/4inch spacer in
d334a1aa927cabfb3539d56b554401ac.jpg


The main noise is gone more or less. I do think the u joint will kick the dust shield causing some random audible noises.

And I got a feeling it may over compress at times but it's whatever.....I think a 3/8inch or 1/2 inch spacers would have done the trick but I could only find 3/4inch as the smallest offered.

Now the only noise I have is driveline vibration which is probably a combo of bad pinion angle and a driveshaft. For some reason I think the coupling that separates the inner and outer shaft is bad at the very center of it. The sleeve looks to be in good condition when I peer down the the tail end of it.

But anyways....it's not worth my time anymore lol I more or less fixed the main issue. The radio can cancel out the rest lol

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