[Solved] Throwing in the towel...I need some help. Electrical.

[jaredawoodruff]

Solution: It was the Integration Relay under the drive side fuses that got water damaged and was sending an 8.8v feed to the power window relay which kept constant power to the window circuits.

I've spent a number of hours today diagnosing, searching the forums, reading the FSM, etc, etc; but I'm stuck.

So a while ago, I sank the front end of my 1998 SR5 in some water (fresh). Everything is working OK now except a parasitic draw that I've narrowed down to 1 system.

My windows (doors and roof) have constant power all the time without the keys even being in the ignition. It's producing ~120mA draw which slowly drains the battery over a few days, of course.

When I tested for current on all the fuses and narrowed it down to the POWER 30A fuse under the dash. Remove the fuse, the draw is gone and I'm down to the normal ~10mA passive draw of the system (goes down to about 3mA when I take out the DOME fuse).

When I insert the 30A fuse, I can hear the Power Main Relay click on. Remove the relay and insert the fuse, no draw. If I disconnect the smaller connector from my Integration Relay (I guess that's the Body ECU? It's a yellow box), draw is gone.

Here's the kicker, the 1996-2002 FSM shows a different pin out for the Body ECU than what I've got in my truck. (Unless the Integration Relay isn't the ECU-B).

I'm a dumb noob that can't find a year specific wiring diagram for myself and I don't know how to test the Body ECU to see if it's the culprit or if there is a short somewhere else in the system.

I think I ruled out the ignition, I disconnected the wires and the draw persists.

I also ruled out the master switch and the passenger switch. But I can confirm from probing that the master switch is receiving power when there are no keys inserted, like I said, the windows work then they aren't supposed to.

It's almost like the courtesy feature is stuck "ON" but I don't know how to test it.

Can a wise old sage shed some light here? I'd love to drive my rig around without having to disconnect the battery when I get out...

 

[19963.4lsr5]

That FSM floating around I'm pretty sure is for a 02. You need to look for a wiring book specific to your year. I found one on eBay two years ago for 35 dollars. Was your doors under water too?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jaredawoodruff]

Yeah, doors in the water. But I removed the switches and I was still getting a current.

 

[Mikkey9289]

This is a total long shot but I would check the heater relay in the under hood fuse box and make sure it didn't get water in it and is shorting on. If i'm read these diagrams right it could possibly back feed power to the power relay circuit. Honestly it sounds like something got wet and has your integration relay going haywire.

 

[Rock_Rat]

You can sign up for a "one-time" subscription to the Toyota tech library TIS website and get the wiring diagrams. I think it's about $15 for a week. I took screen captures of the entire electrical manual since I couldn't download it. Here's the link. Hope this helps if you can't get a good answer.

TIS Website

 

[TheDurk]

I've spent a number of hours today diagnosing, searching the forums, reading the FSM, etc, etc; but I'm stuck.

So a while ago, I sank the front end of my 1998 SR5 in some water (fresh). Everything is working OK now except a parasitic draw that I've narrowed down to 1 system.

My windows (doors and roof) have constant power all the time without the keys even being in the ignition. It's producing ~120mA draw which slowly drains the battery over a few days, of course.

When I tested for current on all the fuses and narrowed it down to the POWER 30A fuse under the dash. Remove the fuse, the draw is gone and I'm down to the normal ~10mA passive draw of the system (goes down to about 3mA when I take out the DOME fuse).

When I insert the 30A fuse, I can hear the Power Main Relay click on. Remove the relay and insert the fuse, no draw. If I disconnect the smaller connector from my Integration Relay (I guess that's the Body ECU? It's a yellow box), draw is gone.

Here's the kicker, the 1996-2002 FSM shows a different pin out for the Body ECU than what I've got in my truck. (Unless the Integration Relay isn't the ECU-B).

I'm a dumb noob that can't find a year specific wiring diagram for myself and I don't know how to test the Body ECU to see if it's the culprit or if there is a short somewhere else in the system.

I think I ruled out the ignition, I disconnected the wires and the draw persists.

I also ruled out the master switch and the passenger switch. But I can confirm from probing that the master switch is receiving power when there are no keys inserted, like I said, the windows work then they aren't supposed to.

It's almost like the courtesy feature is stuck "ON" but I don't know how to test it.

Can a wise old sage shed some light here? I'd love to drive my rig around without having to disconnect the battery when I get out...

Unfortunately, Toyota doesn't tell us much about the interior of any of its black boxes, only about the wires to and from. So the only wiring info you will find is this:

 

[IBallEngineer]

It's almost like the courtesy feature is stuck "ON" but I don't know how to test it.

Can a wise old sage shed some light here? I'd love to drive my rig around without having to disconnect the battery when I get out...

I'm old, so I'll throw my 2 cents in.

The online link for the EWD is dead, so I'll have to ask Ol' Durko to contribute if he can. I know he has a print version of an early EWD, is that right [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] ?

I'd like to go back to basics here regarding your parasitic draw, 120ma is high, but it's not THAT high. 30-50 seems pretty normal these days and a car can sit for weeks and not discharge a good battery. So maybe this is your only problem, or maybe your battery isn't so good. Just sayin' Check the basics.

That said, even without the EWD, you can troubleshoot the Power Relay pretty easily. There are FOUR pins used on the relay, and this is how they should play out.
1. Should be +V only with the ignition switch on. (this is how the system is switched on/off)
2. Should be grounded ALL the time.
3. Is the output to the Window motors and Switch.
4. Not used
5. This should have +V ALL the time.

If Term 1 has power only with the Ign on, you most likely have a bad relay. If it has power all the time, you most likely have a bad Body ECU.

This is a little simplistic, but it is a good start.

:guitar2:

 

[TheDurk]

So, page 23 of the file in the middle says the integration relay connects to the Power Relay Coil from Pin 7 and Page 22 shows the pin-out. (The diagrams are specific to MY 1998.)

Actually, a better picture is shown on page 15 of this file below, although it says it is Pin 1 of the integration relay that goes to the Power Relay Coil. I can't figure that one out. In any case, if the Gauges turn on and off when they should, and the Power Relay does not, the Integration Relay is almost surely at fault, assuming the Power Relay passes the test the ancient Eyeball proposed. [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] You agree, O West Coast aged sage (but younger than I)? By the way, I posted the diagrams BEFORE you asked for them--howboutdat?? Getting a little slow in your old age?

 

[IBallEngineer]

So, page 23 of the file in the middle says the integration relay connects to the Power Relay Coil from Pin 7 and Page 22 shows the pin-out. (The diagrams are specific to MY 1998.

Damn, that's twice in two days you posted minutes before me, STOP that!

LOL

So I'm looking at page 23 and I see the power feed to the coil of the Power Relay coming in on connector 1B, Term 1. Am I looking at something different than you are?

op2:

 

[IBallEngineer]

OK, that time I questioned pin 1 before you edited your post. But I do agree, this should be a simple solution. AND I think the battery should hold up for more than a few days at 110ma draw.

 

[TheDurk]

OK, that time I questioned pin 1 before you edited your post. But I do agree, this should be a simple solution. AND I think the battery should hold up for more than a few days at 110ma draw.

Yeah, no question. I can go to Brazil for six weeks and come back and she starts in real cold weather and my key off draw is just under 40mA. So 110mA at least a week, maybe more.

 

[TheDurk]

Damn, that's twice in two days you posted minutes before me, STOP that!

LOL

So I'm looking at page 23 and I see the power feed to the coil of the Power Relay coming in on connector 1B, Term 1. Am I looking at something different than you are?

op2:

No, but if you look at the Overall, page 15, that Plug 1B, Pin 1 connection is the ground. The power to the Power Relay coil comes in from inside the box from the Integration Relay--I just don't know if it is Pin 7 on that relay or Pin 1, because it is shown both ways. But it is shown as Pin 1 twice, so I'd bet on that. That relay takes the key on signal from the key switch ,which also controls the GAUGE circuit, so if that works, the key signal must be as it should be, but OP could test that it turns on and off at Pin 6 of the Integration Relay and remove all doubt.

 

[jaredawoodruff]

Sweet! These diagrams look like they're really gonna help.

So I tested the windows after remove the heater relay and same issue.

I haven't tested the gauge circuit to see if there's power to it. I did unplug my ignition connectors and the problem made no change.

I'm leaning towards a jacked integrated relay but I'll test to find out for sure.

Thanks for the help so far! I post my findings so another noob in the future can find this thread and get some help

 

[jaredawoodruff]

So, page 23 of the file in the middle says the integration relay connects to the Power Relay Coil from Pin 7 and Page 22 shows the pin-out. (The diagrams are specific to MY 1998.)

Actually, a better picture is shown on page 15 of this file below, although it says it is Pin 1 of the integration relay that goes to the Power Relay Coil. I can't figure that one out. In any case, if the Gauges turn on and off when they should, and the Power Relay does not, the Integration Relay is almost surely at fault, assuming the Power Relay passes the test the ancient Eyeball proposed. [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] You agree, O West Coast aged sage (but younger than I)? By the way, I posted the diagrams BEFORE you asked for them--howboutdat?? Getting a little slow in your old age?

Damn, that's twice in two days you posted minutes before me, STOP that!

LOL

So I'm looking at page 23 and I see the power feed to the coil of the Power Relay coming in on connector 1B, Term 1. Am I looking at something different than you are?

op2:

OK, that time I questioned pin 1 before you edited your post. But I do agree, this should be a simple solution. AND I think the battery should hold up for more than a few days at 110ma draw.

So there's a 8.8v feed coming off of pin B1 on the Integration Relay without keys. I would think it should be 0v, right?

I insert keys and turn to ON and the voltage jumps to over 12.

Does this sound like a faulty integration relay?

 

[TheDurk]

So there's a 8.8v feed coming off of pin B1 on the Integration Relay without keys. I would think it should be 0v, right?

I insert keys and turn to ON and the voltage jumps to over 12.

Does this sound like a faulty integration relay?

Yes and Yes. But it could conceivably be the key switch, unless something else it controls works normally.

 

[jaredawoodruff]

Yes and Yes. But it could conceivably be the key switch, unless something else it controls works normally.

If I unplug the key switch all together and the problem persists, does that rule out the key switch circuit?

 

[TheDurk]

If I unplug the key switch all together and the problem persists, does that rule out the key switch circuit?

Yep.

 

[jaredawoodruff]

Yep.

Well...I ran down to my nearest (and only) auto wrecking yard and reverently walked between the aisles dotted with dead and gone 4Runners that now rest in Valhalla and found another Integration Relay. Popped it in and that fixed it. No more window issues and the passive draw is 15mA, perfect.

Cheers guys. Thanks for all your help! This forum is great...

 

[IBallEngineer]

Well...I ran down to my nearest (and only) auto wrecking yard and reverently walked between the aisles dotted with dead and gone 4Runners that now rest in Valhalla and found another Integration Relay. Popped it in and that fixed it. No more window issues and the passive draw is 15mA, perfect.

Cheers guys. Thanks for all your help! This forum is great...

Nope, you threw in the towel, put your old one back in and live with it!

That was too easy, odds of finding the correct Body ECU are very low, I don't have that kind of luck.

 

[jaredawoodruff]

Nope, you threw in the towel, put your old one back in and live with it!

That was too easy, odds of finding the correct Body ECU are very low, I don't have that kind of luck.

That's because you just eyeball it! I just made sure the part numbers were the same in this case. They were printed right on the box.