Sometimes lose power + whining sound while reversing in 4wd

I dunno, I read a few threads where it seemed like people were reusing that one cork gasket and that was maybe causing it not to seal, but maybe I misread. I’ve been reading so much on these transmissions the last few days that it’s hard to keep it all straight. It was a few bucks so I’d rather have and not need it than vice versa.

The rubber pan gasket - $15 seems worth it to me. Likely you’re right that pulling the pan is a one time thing, but I don’t feel like messing with gasket maker.


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My thoughts.



I don't get you ordering the gasket. The Tranny filter (strainer) should come with the gaskets glued on it (maybe Toyota sells it without the gaskets?). And the strainer uses 2 or maybe 3 gaskets and your only ordering one of them....



Toyota pans have a drain plug, and the strainer is supposed to be lifetime. For those reasons I glue the Toyota pans back on after replacing the strainer thinking I'll probably not be back in there for another 100K or more.



You were correct the filter comes with the cork gasket, so I now have an extra :). Guess I’ll send it back


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I prefer the rubber gaskets myself as cork will work as well. I have no idea why people even try to clean that metal screen filter as you really cant. It's better to just replace it when you pull the pan off to clean and check your magnets. :)

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I did the rearmost u joint tonight. The old u joint seemed to move just fine in all directions and I didn’t detect much of any noticeable play. I think it was aftermarket though because the c clips seemed a bit thinner and the o ring was a different thickness.

The job took me a little longer than it probably should have. The first go-round I pressed the new u joint in the wrong orientation and blocked the grease zerk, so had to press it all out again.

All said I got it figured out, greased up the slip yoke which was basically bone dry, also re-greased the front double cardan joint. That one seemed to take a lot of grease.

Here’s my freshly lubed slip yoke spline

3fbdd0a8d17dbbcf66697d7a47f3edea.jpg


After I did all that I did a few power brakes in reverse and got the rear tire to break loose. No bad sounds. I’ll be on the lookout to see if it happens more over the next few weeks.

Another question - there’s a little bit of rotational play in the driveshaft when rotating in either direction. Also rotational play in the 3rd member when I had the rear u joint off and turned the flange at the 3rd member by hand. How normal is that?




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Last edited:
It’s normal for the tranny and diff to have some rotational play. That’s the backlash on the gears. They don’t build them tight otherwise they’d tear themselves up.
 
It’s normal for the tranny and diff to have some rotational play. That’s the backlash on the gears. They don’t build them tight otherwise they’d tear themselves up.



Right on, thanks for jumping in on the thread, all of you. Hoping that’s the end of it.



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Just tested again and confirmed it’s only in reverse.

Had my fiancé jump in the driver’s seat so I could get underneath and make a video. It seems to be from the rear driveshaft area.

YouTube

Sounds can be deceiving though and I know you can’t really localize through a video, but it does seem to correspond to when the bigger movement of the driveshaft & u joint occurs.

Thoughts?




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I have the same sound coming from my 97 1kz auto, only screeches like that in reverse
Sound def comes from the transmission- transfer case area.
Do you still have the issue?
 
I have the same sound coming from my 97 1kz auto, only screeches like that in reverse

Sound def comes from the transmission- transfer case area.

Do you still have the issue?



The last time it happened was in February when I was stuck in some snow and really had to goose it in reverse to get out. So it doesn’t seem like the new u joint fixed it.

I haven’t had it happen since then and have been wheeling twice, with another trip upcoming in August.

I did have to replace my 3rd member since I blew up my ring gear on the last Offroad trip. So I will know if it happens again that it’s probably not related to the diff.

I’ve sort of resigned myself to just accepting whatever it is and hopefully it doesn’t progress.


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The last time it happened was in February when I was stuck in some snow and really had to goose it in reverse to get out. So it doesn’t seem like the new u joint fixed it.

I haven’t had it happen since then and have been wheeling twice, with another trip upcoming in August.

I did have to replace my 3rd member since I blew up my ring gear on the last Offroad trip. So I will know if it happens again that it’s probably not related to the diff.

I’ve sort of resigned myself to just accepting whatever it is and hopefully it doesn’t progress.


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I cant just accept it after it happened to me while i was driving down the beach and i got bogged. I would gotten out fine if reverse work but instead i had to get snatched out.
I need to be able to trust my rig

Heres a link to the noise mine makes

Toyota 3rd generation 4runner / hilux surf screech in reverse gear - YouTube

That's similar to yours right?
 
Yup that’s exactly the same as mine! Damn, first time I’ve seen someone with the same problem. Not sure how to help but at least I know I’m not crazy


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Alright yesterday I noticed a faint whining sound while holding the brake in reverse, definitely a new sound.

Reading about various whining sounds it could be a planetary gear. Either way it motivated me to get off my ass and drop the tranny pan to replace the filter.

Quick background - I bought the runner 4 years ago with 166k miles. I bought it from a private seller and they had just replaced the radiator, rear main seal, and head gasket/water pump. I have always suspected that maybe they got a pink milkshake and that’s why they sold.

Anyway, when I bought it I did a complete flush and that’s how I’ve run it since. It’s now got 196k miles and I haven’t done anything to the fluid.

So back to the filter - I dropped the pan and there was a good (bad) amount of sludge in the bottom, the magnets had a bunch of meta shavings, and the filter didn’t look great.

Here’s the bottom of my pan full of sludge

7c4a4cffe0b5126d550ce31b4e2dbb9c.jpg


Here’s the magnets before I cleaned them

97db9ee2396d205e45bc6166c5e30607.jpg


Old filter

7b90bccc8851d00616f37d0bd2c5b5b7.jpg


I also wanted to install a magnefine filter but the autozone doesn’t have 3/8” transmission tube, so I’ll have to do that on a follow up job.

Anyway, I didn’t notice any whine in reverse and the transmission shifts nice and smooth. I know the prevention is the best cure for these transmissions, but hopefully this + more diligence helps.

I will also keep my fingers crossed that this new filter flows better and helps it build up pressure better in reverse = no more screeching & power loss while wheeling.


Will update after my next Offroad trip next month

One side note - measuring transmission fluid is a real *****. I’m pretty sure I overfilled it by about 3 qts initially because I wasn’t sure if I was seeing it show up on the dipstick. I eventually drained it out in small amounts 4-5 times until I got it where I think I’m happy with. Definitely going to check it a few more times in the coming days though just to be sure.


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Last edited:
Yes these filters need to be changed. Clean fluid keeps and filters keep the transmission going. So was it like that when you changed it before? Or do you not pull the pan and clean the magnets last fluid change?

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On a hot trans:

Pull the plug and let it drain until it drips and pour a gallon in. I don’t waste my time with the dipstick anymore.

The 3/8” magnefine should fit in your rubber 10mm cooler lines. It’s the same (3/8” or 10mm is close enough with rubber hoses it don’t matter).


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Alright yesterday I noticed a faint whining sound while holding the brake in reverse, definitely a new sound.

Reading about various whining sounds it could be a planetary gear. Either way it motivated me to get off my ass and drop the tranny pan to replace the filter.

Quick background - I bought the runner 4 years ago with 166k miles. I bought it from a private seller and they had just replaced the radiator, rear main seal, and head gasket/water pump. I have always suspected that maybe they got a pink milkshake and that’s why they sold.

Anyway, when I bought it I did a complete flush and that’s how I’ve run it since. It’s now got 196k miles and I haven’t done anything to the fluid.

So back to the filter - I dropped the pan and there was a good (bad) amount of sludge in the bottom, the magnets had a bunch of meta shavings, and the filter didn’t look great.

Here’s the bottom of my pan full of sludge

7c4a4cffe0b5126d550ce31b4e2dbb9c.jpg


Here’s the magnets before I cleaned them

97db9ee2396d205e45bc6166c5e30607.jpg


Old filter

7b90bccc8851d00616f37d0bd2c5b5b7.jpg


I also wanted to install a magnefine filter but the autozone doesn’t have 3/8” transmission tube, so I’ll have to do that on a follow up job.

Anyway, I didn’t notice any whine in reverse and the transmission shifts nice and smooth. I know the prevention is the best cure for these transmissions, but hopefully this + more diligence helps.

I will also keep my fingers crossed that this new filter flows better and helps it build up pressure better in reverse = no more screeching & power loss while wheeling.


Will update after my next Offroad trip next month

One side note - measuring transmission fluid is a real *****. I’m pretty sure I overfilled it by about 3 qts initially because I wasn’t sure if I was seeing it show up on the dipstick. I eventually drained it out in small amounts 4-5 times until I got it where I think I’m happy with. Definitely going to check it a few more times in the coming days though just to be sure.


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Make sure you are checking the transmission fluid level when hot. The cold mark should put you in the ballpark, but the hot level is what matters. Once everything is up to temperature, leave the car on and set the parking brake. Start in park, and shift all the way down to L, then all the way back up to park, and then check your fluid level against the hot marks.
 
[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] I didn’t change the filter when I did the first flush, it wasn’t well documented at the time I guess or I didn’t realize the necessity of it. Very glad I did this time around. It seems to shift into reverse much faster now.
[MENTION=99144]19963.4lsr5[/MENTION] the line from my radiator to my trans is pretty taut, though I suppose if I cut it in the middle and added the filter then that would give me more slack.

I went back in today and finished the job. Ended up using some hose my my trans cooler kit, hooked up the magnefine, and looped it around so the magnefine is running horizontal and parallel to my power steering lines, zip tied to the frame. I tried my best to avoid making any kinks in the hose, hopefully I did a good job and don’t accidentally choke the flow of fluid, that would be an ironic way to kill my trans.
[MENTION=291664]Skulking[/MENTION] noted on checking the fluid while hot. I did some more checking today after installing the magnefine and it was a little low since I lost some fluid. Added more and I think I got it right, I just really can’t say with total confidence it’s so hard for me to really assess whether there’s legit fluid there or if it just picked up some from the wall of the dipstick.


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[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] I didn’t change the filter when I did the first flush, it wasn’t well documented at the time I guess or I didn’t realize the necessity of it. Very glad I did this time around. It seems to shift into reverse much faster now.
[MENTION=99144]19963.4lsr5[/MENTION] the line from my radiator to my trans is pretty taut, though I suppose if I cut it in the middle and added the filter then that would give me more slack.

I went back in today and finished the job. Ended up using some hose my my trans cooler kit, hooked up the magnefine, and looped it around so the magnefine is running horizontal and parallel to my power steering lines, zip tied to the frame. I tried my best to avoid making any kinks in the hose, hopefully I did a good job and don’t accidentally choke the flow of fluid, that would be an ironic way to kill my trans.
[MENTION=291664]Skulking[/MENTION] noted on checking the fluid while hot. I did some more checking today after installing the magnefine and it was a little low since I lost some fluid. Added more and I think I got it right, I just really can’t say with total confidence it’s so hard for me to really assess whether there’s legit fluid there or if it just picked up some from the wall of the dipstick.


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I'm very familiar with that concern. When I adjust my trans fluid level I will recheck over and over until I am confident that I'm reading the level and not something picked up from the dipstick tube. It's an issue with using the dipstick tube as a fill port.
 
Drain the ATF hot and pour a gallon in. Don’t worry about the dipstick unless you have a leak and are wanting to check it later on.

I also Zip-tied mine the the power steering lines on the crossmember behind the rad. Easy to get to and protected somewhat.


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Have this same problem currently. Only decent thread I was able to find on the topic. Did you get any relief from changing the trans fluid and filter?
 

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