SPC Light Racing UCA Contact Warning

I don't see anything on the spindle, only small marks on the back side of the UBJ assembly (the gold piece). As seen here the shape of the contact matches and if you look very closely on the gold piece you can see minor scratches.
 

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I don't see anything on the spindle, only small marks on the back side of the UBJ assembly (the gold piece). As seen here the shape of the contact matches and if you look very closely on the gold piece you can see minor scratches.

You need to flex her out and see where contact is. I dying see how that would contact. I've ran d setting with no issues.
 
I'll see if I can get her out sometime this week and get her flexed.

How your top bolt is all the way IN on the UCA is weird to me. I have only seen 3 of the LR UCA's in person, but they're all, mine included, all the way OUT.


I'd get it aligned again, and ask them to use the cambolts to adjust camber, and not that nut on the UCA? I don't even know if that makes sense. I know nothing about alignment.
 
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How your top bolt is all the way IN on the UCA is weird to me. I have only seen 3 of the LR UCA's in person, but they're all, mine included, all the way OUT.


I'd get it aligned again, and ask them to use the cambolts to adjust camber, and not that nut on the UCA? I don't even know if that makes sense. I know nothing about alignment.
Wondering this exact same thing. The UBJ joint is slid super far in. I feel like you'd have extreme neg camber this setting.
 
Wondering this exact same thing. The UBJ joint is slid super far in. I feel like you'd have extreme neg camber this setting.

Right? I wonder if for the alignment they just left the cambolts (seized maybe?) and moved that nut in...

I GUESS WE MAY NEVER KNOW
 
Wow...I have a set of these sitting on top of my tool box waiting to be installed! Never heard of anything like this. I'm curious to see the suspension flexed out...to see what ended up cause this. :snacker:

Hopefully by seeing what's hitting what...the OP will be able to determine how to correct his problem. Then I'll know what to look for when/after I do my own install.

- Russel
 
Hey here's an idea!
Just a thought...

ADJUST YOUR CAMBER SO IT DOESN'T HIT!

Are you for real?

My 19 year old had more sense than you.

:rockthrow:

...and for God's sake, take the zip ties of the brake lines and DO IT RIGHT! You value your life on the cheap!
 
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I'll see if I can get her out sometime this week and get her flexed.

I can kind of see the damage on that last pic on the UBJ. Looks like it did contact. Like others are saying my camber bolt is adjusted all the way out, which would move that ball joint a lot. Its recommended to run them in the center just to the alignment shop. Kind of strange if aligned why it needs to be pushed all the way in.

On a side note I had mine where yours was. But I never did fully flex it out. When getting aligned I wanted them to add as much caster as possible to stop my tires from rubbing the rear of wheel wells. They adjusted me too the A location to add the caster. Tires dont rub and no way of contacting.
 
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The jokers from the various alignment shops I went to in the past would only adjust toe so my camber was always ~1.5. B/c of that, I had to slide my top nut all the way in-board to bring my camber closer to spec. Was recently referred to a tech that supposedly knows how to do proper alignments and was able to slide my top not all the way out-board again and get my alignment numbers within spec for the first time.

I never had any contact with the caster plate when it was all the way in-board but I also don't offroad my 4runner right now.
 
Ok just to clear some more things up - these are freshly installed, I have not recently got an alignment, I only put the UBJ in the full negative setting as a place holder until I did and I simply posted pics to show what happened. I don't need a bunch of asses telling me what to do because I can obviously fix the problem. And you are saying I have no sense when you're calling an ABS wire a brake line?
 
Ok just to clear some more things up - these are freshly installed, I have not recently got an alignment, I only put the UBJ in the full negative setting as a place holder until I did and I simply posted pics to show what happened. I don't need a bunch of asses telling me what to do because I can obviously fix the problem. And you are saying I have no sense when you're calling an ABS wire a brake line?

That guy's a clown... Look at his post history.

I thought I saw that you had gotten it aligned. My bad. Once you have it aligned properly I believe your issue will be a non-issue.
 
Ok just to clear some more things up - these are freshly installed, I have not recently got an alignment, I only put the UBJ in the full negative setting as a place holder until I did and I simply posted pics to show what happened. I don't need a bunch of asses telling me what to do because I can obviously fix the problem. And you are saying I have no sense when you're calling an ABS wire a brake line?

You fully flexed your front end out and wasnt aligned? Good stuff!!
 
Why do you have it set all the way negative?
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He is not, he is on the D setting, which gives 2* difference in caster. Its recommended by SPC to start there. Only issue is I can tell is the camber was off so bad by being pushed in that it caused the contact. If it was set to center, then driven to alignment he would have been fine. But looks like he flexed her out before he got it aligned.
 
I've got LR UCA's and similar damage to the coil bucket. I've cycled mine and it's because I have Total Chaos spindle gussets and now the spindle hits the bucket just slightly. Looks to be in the same area as yours. As you go to full bump the camber goes even further negative. I don't have my uppers set as far negative as yours and my spindle still hits. It's only on the drivers side on mine.

It only takes 30 minutes to drop the coilover and cycle the suspension. That's what I love about the 3rd gen. If you were local I'd help ya do it. Then you know definitively.
 
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I believe the reason why he has it like that is when you first put a lift on, especially a 3"+ lift the caster goes more negative and the camber goes more positive, kinda like when you're jacking the front end up and the wheels dip outward (top of the tire, away from the motor) With a lift the wheels stay "jacked up" and the quick fix is to just push the camber all the way negative to get it close to get to the alignment shop. Honestly, my Camber is set pretty far negative too using the UCA and I'm like .1 degrees negative camber on both sides. Have the cams maxed out too. I have never made contact with the shock tower however.
 

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