I just got my SPC control arms in the mail. I am gonna install them tomorrow. I looked at the instructions and says for 2-3" of lift set to D on the caster plate. Is this what other people have done? Also do you slide it all the way to the front towards the tire or to the back?
SPC UCA question
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thecole1098
New member
I don't have mine yet but I will shortly. I have been researching this a lot. From what I've seen the D setting will give you 2* additional from what you already had as the UCA itself comes with 2* built into the arm so the D setting of the ball joint is 0*. SPC recommends you keep the ball joint in the middle of the slot. That will affect camber which can all be dealt with through the LCAs.
In short, keeping the UCA in the D setting and in the middle of the slot will allow you to comfortably get back into spec and fine tuning can be made from the LCA as you normally would.
Also, it is imperative that you torque the upper ball joint nut (on top of the control arm) to 150 ft-lb/s otherwise it WILL work loose and your alignment will be out of whack the moment you hit a large bump. Also, be sure to put about 5-10 pumps of grease into the ball joint once you install everything.
In short, keeping the UCA in the D setting and in the middle of the slot will allow you to comfortably get back into spec and fine tuning can be made from the LCA as you normally would.
Also, it is imperative that you torque the upper ball joint nut (on top of the control arm) to 150 ft-lb/s otherwise it WILL work loose and your alignment will be out of whack the moment you hit a large bump. Also, be sure to put about 5-10 pumps of grease into the ball joint once you install everything.
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Thanks for all of this information. Hopefully install goes smooth tomorrow.
thezentree
Senior Member
I set mine to D originally and then moved them to E later on to keep the 33s I had on it out of the pinch weld. The alignment tech was able to adjust the LCAs to get the caster in spec.
I'd just set the camber to where it looks close and then take it to an alignment shop.
I am running 285’s at the moment. Might be bumping up to 305’s or 315,s down the road.
thezentree
Senior Member
You might consider F or G. I still had some minor rubbing at E but I didn't "massage" the pinch weld or fender liner at all.
thecole1098
New member
How much caster do you have right now with E? I’m assuming you had to max out your LCA adjusters to get within spec.(
thezentree
Senior Member
I don't have the spec sheet in front of me (I'm on my phone in some hellhole women's clothing store with my fiancé) but I think it was 3.7 or 3.9 degrees. It's in spec but on the upper end.
LCA cams aren't fully maxed but they're close.
thecole1098
New member
How does it drive like that? Steering wheel return easily? Good control at high speed?
thezentree
Senior Member
I can drive it with one finger on the interstate. Bumpsteer is a TINY bit more noticeable but it's not bad at all and might be due more to bigger, heavier tires.
thecole1098
New member
That's good its easier to control on the highway. Mine tends to wander a lot currently with the stock UCAs. Honestly my main reason getting them is 1) my current upper ball joints are original and shot and 2) my steering will not return by itself around the 9 - 3 o'clock position. And yeah, bumpsteer is gonna be noticeable with larger/stiffer tires.
thezentree
Senior Member
Yeah I'm really happy with them so far.
Road Bull
Senior Member
I went from D to G to help clear 285s on SCS wheels with 3.5" BS. I have some positive caster.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/222450-spc-uca-alignment-sheets-6.html#post2849684
Mine is my DD and I have a interstate involved. I think it drives fine.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/222450-spc-uca-alignment-sheets-6.html#post2849684
Mine is my DD and I have a interstate involved. I think it drives fine.
I have a set of land cruiser wheels with 4.5” BS going on soon.
thecole1098
New member
My Pro Comps have 3.75" BS so my plan is to get as much positive caster as I can (2.5-3* preferred) while having minimal rubbing in the pinch weld area with my 33" tires. I feel like if the LCA is adjusted correctly, the D or E setting should work for me. I hope, we'll have to see.
Road Bull
Senior Member
Cool. 4.5" BS should be more forgiving than my 3.5" BS.
rkntoy
New member
Depends on tire size. More BS can equal more frame rub
theesotericone
New member
Yep. I run 295/70/17's on 17x9 -12(4.53 BS). I happen to like a wider stance so I already had 1.25" spacers on my rig. There is no way my tires clear the frame without them. At full turn full stuff I'm about an 3/4" from the frame currently.
Going with spacers also a drawback. Pushing the tire out further to clear the frame makes it hit the pinch welds more. That was fixed with going to F on my SPC's. I now have no rub anywhere at full stuff full lock. I'm happy with my setup for now. 35's aren't a long way off though. lol
