Starter contacts are fine...

[squabeggz]

96 with +220k on the clock. Had the single clack non start issue. OK fine I'll change the contacts, no biggie. Start tearing into it and WTF!? Fun, now I get to fight this thing all the way out. Looks like some vermin got hungry and decided that my starter cable looked tasty. I assume this was shorting out on something hence the no start. Wonder how long it has been this way as there is some corrosion on the exposed wire but not much.

I've bench tested it and everything engages/spins, so I guess I'll just clean up the guts, throw some shrink wrap on and shove this thing back in. I'll check the battery cables as well.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[squabeggz]

So, got it back in and it still just does the one clank. You can hear what sounds to be a charge going to the starter motor (high pitched electrical whine) and the starter motor trying to turn.

The engine is not seized. I can push start it, pop the clutch and it runs fine.

I'm kind of at a loss to what to check next. Battery tests fine with a volt meter. I'm getting 12v at the starter solenoid...i assume i should be getting 12v at the ignition plug at the starter as well?

This all happened suddenly too. There were never any outward signs the starter was having troubles. It always started up fine until i went to lunch one day, came out and click...

 

[Kanoe]

If you don't mind me asking... What do you mean by "the starter contacts were fine"? Did you open up the solenoid and look at them? (if so did you change them?)

I'm gonna risk pissing off a few others here, but just because the starter will spin on the bench does not mean it will produce the torque to spin over your engine. Could be a starter problem but if it is an OEM Toyota starter then chances are it is just the contacts. The starter will likely spin on the bench with bad contacts, will not start the truck as the connection is weak through the solenoid. (think loose cable type of bad connection)

Of course it could be a bad connection anywhere in the circuit from battery to starter to ground, and likely many other things as well.

 

[Toyotayoda]

96 with +220k on the clock. Had the single clack non start issue. OK fine I'll change the contacts, no biggie. Start tearing into it and WTF!? Fun, now I get to fight this thing all the way out. Looks like some vermin got hungry and decided that my starter cable looked tasty. I assume this was shorting out on something hence the no start. Wonder how long it has been this way as there is some corrosion on the exposed wire but not much.

I've bench tested it and everything engages/spins, so I guess I'll just clean up the guts, throw some shrink wrap on and shove this thing back in. I'll check the battery cables as well.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Thats not enough rodent damage to cause a no start. Theres more to a starter than contacts as well, while that is a common failure, you could have worn motor brushes or a bad armature. Once a starter motor gets to a certain age it's time to stop screwing around and just replace the darned thing.

 

[TheDurk]

Thats not enough rodent damage to cause a no start. Theres more to a starter than contacts as well, while that is a common failure, you could have worn motor brushes or a bad armature. Once a starter motor gets to a certain age it's time to stop screwing around and just replace the darned thing.

If it's a factory Denso, and by screwing around you mean replacing brushes and bearings, then I have to disagree. A decent rebuild on a factory Denso will outlast by far your new aftermarket or reman Denso you will find out there. These things are bulletproof once you renew a few wear parts.

 

[nissanh]

^^^ I 100% agree with Duke.
All my toyota vehicles have OEM DENSO starters (all at 200K - 260 K miles). Only replaced the starter contacts. Same with the alternator... Just the brush kit is all it needs after 200+ miles!

I had an aftermarket alternator in my car while I get a brush kit for the OEM alternator. With the aftermarket alternator, I noticed poor MPG and rough engine with AC on. Later noticed the pulley is 1/4 inch less in the diameter

 

[Toyotayoda]

^^^ I 100% agree with Duke.
All my toyota vehicles have OEM DENSO starters (all at 200K - 260 K miles). Only replaced the starter contacts. Same with the alternator... Just the brush kit is all it needs after 200+ miles!

I had an aftermarket alternator in my car while I get a brush kit for the OEM alternator. With the aftermarket alternator, I noticed poor MPG and rough engine with AC on. Later noticed the pulley is 1/4 inch less in the diameter

If it's a factory Denso, and by screwing around you mean replacing brushes and bearings, then I have to disagree. A decent rebuild on a factory Denso will outlast by far your new aftermarket or reman Denso you will find out there. These things are bulletproof once you renew a few wear parts.

I was simply stating that there is more to a motor than wear parts, the OEM is very good but not impervious to fail in a manner that bushes and contacts will fix, a volt drop test can only tell you so much. Also I didn't suggest anyone go get some A/M parts or OEM, just stated that the starter had a good run for 20 the last 20 years and it could be time for another.

 

[IBallEngineer]

I was simply stating that there is more to a motor than wear parts, the OEM is very good but not impervious to fail in a manner that bushes and contacts will fix, a volt drop test can only tell you so much. Also I didn't suggest anyone go get some A/M parts or OEM, just stated that the starter had a good run for 20 the last 20 years and it could be time for another.

Yeah but the time means very little to the stator or Armature, and brushes are easy to replace. Although you are correct, the starter can fail terminally, the symptoms are generally different. And there are other tests available to help diagnose those parts. The consensus here it you are better off replacing a few parts in your OE starter than risking inferior parts in a reman, regardless of the brand. :cheer2:

 

[thegipper]

You need to actually take the internal contacts out of the starter and replace them (and plunger). Make sure you clean up the housing real good too.

It also wouldn't hurt to check all your connections, especially all of the grounds (body, motor, tranny).

 

[nissanh]

We are all here to help

I was simply stating that there is more to a motor than wear parts, the OEM is very good but not impervious to fail in a manner that bushes and contacts will fix, a volt drop test can only tell you so much. Also I didn't suggest anyone go get some A/M parts or OEM, just stated that the starter had a good run for 20 the last 20 years and it could be time for another.

Sorry, we didn't meant to find faults at others. We were just telling how good the DENSO starters are. we are all here to help fellow 4runner owners.

My car is 25 years old by 2017 and still the OEM starter. No problem what so ever. So keep the DENSO. I can say the same with DENSO relays. All works perfect!

One more thing: I cannot get the starter out of the engine bay without removing the steering rack, the engine or the frame!!

 

[squabeggz]

So to answer a few questions...
Yes, i did crack open the solenoid and thourougly clean it while checking the contacts...I am 98% sure they are fine..there is barely even a rut carved into them yet...had the dealer "replace" the starter about 10 years/~90k ago (it would start the truck, but then keep running...had to disconnect the neg battery to stop it from burning up while driving). I have a feeling all they did was change the contacts...lesson learned from an earlier time in life.

i'm still in the process of doing voltage and voltage drop tests. I have a feeling that it is either the Autozone battery i've had for 2.5 - 3 years or crappy grounds somewhere. If i run jumper cables to the starter direct from the battery and jump the starter, it has the power to crank the engine over.

Anybody know of any other common failure points in the circuit that wouldn't be covered in the "big 3 upgrade"?

Failing that, are there any good write ups on taking apart the motor side and attempting to replace wear parts on that?

Might be time to start scavenging the scrap yards (I always seem to need to go to those when it's winter...wtf)

 

[squabeggz]

Got it to start. Crap battery and cables. Big 3 + new battery on the way. One issue though..once it finally started, it was running rough and blowing a lot of smoke. It has NEVER smoked and I didn't touch anything that would cause that. The only thing I can think of is it is caused by my repeated attempts at starting it and checking voltages while cranking. Pretty sure the fuel pump runs every time you crank it. Does this sound legit, or am I up in the night?

It also ran very rough for like a minute before it smoothed out.