I have a 1999 4Runner Limited 6 cyl 4WD. It was working fine but the other day I went to start it up and got a single click but nothing else (the starter solenoid engaging). Not the dead battery machine gun clicking, just one click from the starter solenoid. Just to make sure, I charged the battery and verified that wasn't the problem. So after a search here, I was pointed to the solenoid contacts in the starter so I replaced them and...single click. So I ordered a starter and replaced it and...single click. Seeing something mentioned about a bad ground wire, I put one jumper cable from the ground on the battery to the engine frame and...single click. This doesn't make sense to me. Got 0 ohms and 15vdc on positive side of the battery and fusebox. Any other suggestions since the wife now is starting to suggest we buy a new/different play car for our weekend adventures and retiring the 4Runner. Please help!
1999 Won't Start, Single Click but Not Starter Contacts
- Thread starter Racer_X
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shadow247
New member
Starter Relay is an easy and cheap "throw a part at it" fix. Seems like you have checked all the other important stuff. Assuming you already cleaned and scuffed the battery terminals.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Was also going to suggest cleaning the battery terminals, even if they 'look' clean. Also the battery to fender ground. Make sure that starter is getting enough juice to do the job. Other than that, the circuit is very simple, ignition switch to relay, relay from battery positive to starter. The starter wiring runs along the bottom of the engine on the lower engine harness if you want to give it a check for any damage. Odds are it's covered in oil though.
I started fighting this same issue back in September. After going through testing everything, and taking the truck to what used to be a really good automotive electric shop, the only thing I'm able to say is that it looks like something has gone badly wrong in the cowl harness, and I'm going to have to tear out the dash completely to get at it, split the loom, and then work the issue with it.
As near as can be worked out, so far, it's somewhere in the circuit going from the STA fuse. Initially, I started blowing the GAU fuse, and then it progressed to the STA being the issue. You might just have a blown fuse in there; try the STA and see. Mine keeps blowing, so there's a short or something in the harness. That, or the idiots at the auto electric place can't test components worth crap...
Oh, yeah... Mine's a 99 Limited, too. Good luck.
I hope it isn't the last problem. I have cleaned the battery terminals and even ordered a new ground cable...but (surprise) it doesn't fit so I just made a new body/ground connector with braided wire. I've ordered a solenoid to try that next and am keeping my fingers crossed...thanks for the help, everyone! I will report back...
brillo_76
Elite Member
Wouldn't it be cheaper to get a denso remfg starter than going through all this?
Maybe not, but I would pull the starter and see if it's functional out of the rig. This would prove exactly where the issue would be.
So you can get the issue resolved.
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Maybe not, but I would pull the starter and see if it's functional out of the rig. This would prove exactly where the issue would be.
So you can get the issue resolved.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
There's one thing I just thought of, but highly unlikely. The starter engages with the flexplate that's bolted on to the back of the engine and inside the transmission bellhousing. If the flexplate had cracked, which is a rare but documented failure, it might be preventing the engine from turning over. I agree with nissanh and see if you can turn the engine over. Get a 19mm socket and a long 2' or 3' breaker bar and put it on the crankshaft at the base of the engine (the big pulley). Turn it clockwise and see if the engine turns with no obstruction. It'll be hard to turn as you're compressing air in the pistons but it should move.
19963.4lsr5
New member
If you read voltage on the big terminal of the starter what voltage do you see when the starter tries to engage? This measurement will help determine if it’s the starter or the supply cable.
It’s not out of the realm of possibilities that you got a bad reman. It’s happened to me twice over the years.
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It’s not out of the realm of possibilities that you got a bad reman. It’s happened to me twice over the years.
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Didn't have much time to work on it this weekend (still recovering with a bunch of down trees for the storms out in CA and the 49'er game - go 9'ers) but I did replace the starter solenoid and that didn't take care of it either. I will break out the multimeter and start getting some voltage readings to try and troubleshoot it better. It just gets so dark so early during the winter (dark and cold when I go to work, dark and cold when I get home). I really wanted it to be the solenoid since that was quick and easy. It's starting to look like it's going to be something that isn't quick, easy or cheap...
4runnercurious
New member
I've been having the same issue, seems to me the starter isn't getting enough power. The starter got new contacts and just got the single click. The starter was tested at autozone and test well on all areas. Battery is 3 months old, reading 12.5v on the multimeter. From what I understand the relay is good too, to make sure, I just bypassed it with jumper wire. Still no start. My last thought is the wiring to the starter. Any updates/resolution on your issue?
phattyduck
Elite Member
I've had starter contacts come out of alignment when they were overtightened... so even with new contacts, there could be a problem there.
Can you get a multimeter on the starter connections (signal and/or main wire) while cranking? That will tell you if you have high resistance in the starter wires. That harness is separate from the main engine harness, so at least it is separately repairable if there is an issue there.
-Charlie
4runnercurious
New member
Oh okay, I didn't know the starter wires were separate from the harness. Do you know where they connect? I tried to run a voltage test on the starters ground bolt, and another a separate test on the clip. I didn't get to high of voltage. I'm pretty new too electrical testing so I'm not sure I'm doing it right. But I do know the starter is working. Just not when it's in my car lol.
19963.4lsr5
New member
A. Loud audible klick is the plunger pulling in. If the starter isn’t spinning…
If full battery voltage is on big wire of the starter after the klick, it’s either contacts/contacts out of alignment or brushes. If the starter is seized it will whine and or squeal and drop a significant amount of battery voltage.
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If full battery voltage is on big wire of the starter after the klick, it’s either contacts/contacts out of alignment or brushes. If the starter is seized it will whine and or squeal and drop a significant amount of battery voltage.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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