Starter Contacts not available for 4th Gen?

[Mantilgh]

I have had intermittent starter problems lately so I stopped by the dealership to see how much they wanted for new contacts for it.

The parts guy said the contacts are not a part that they offer. Said they only sell the magnetic switch (for $200).

Is this true?


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[lightfreak]

Yes it’s true.

You can grab this kit off Amazon for around $20
Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit
There’s a good write up on here for the V6

 

[Mantilgh]

Thank you much


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[Mantilgh]

Ordered the kit above and put it in today. Starter wasn’t too hard to remove other than manipulating it though the hole.

My main problem was the copper bolt for the positive cable was frozen and I bent it and broke a triangle piece of aluminum out starter case where sits. I got secured well enough and seems to work fine.


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[Mantilgh]

Used this post for reference

Replace Starter Contacts and Plunger

 

[AuSeeker]

Ordered the kit above and put it in today. Starter wasn’t too hard to remove other than manipulating it though the hole.

My main problem was the copper bolt for the positive cable was frozen and I bent it and broke a triangle piece of aluminum out starter case where sits. I got secured well enough and seems to work fine.


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Used this post for reference

Replace Starter Contacts and Plunger

Just an FYI on the repair kit mentioned in this topic and the linked reference topic, according to the "check fit" on Amazon this part/repair kit is for the V8 starter and it says does not fit the V6 starter...but as the OP in the linked reference topic shows it will work for the V6 starter, I do see a small difference in the old parts/contacts and the contacts in the kit but apparently not enough of a difference that it won't work in the V6 starter, but it would be better to have the correct kit for the V6.

I did a little searching and the correct kit for the V6 is the Victory Lap ND-36SOL Solenoid Repair Kit, the difference in the part number for the V8 is 34 instead of 36 for the V6 in the part number, this is the part number for the V8 Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit, both kits are the same price.

Here's a link to the kit for the V6 repair kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345016430482&psc=1

Here's a link to the kit for the V8 repair kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-...automotive&vehicleId=5&vehicleType=automotive

 

[Captsolo]

The OEM starter in my 2005 SR5 with 145000 miles failed after 4 years. I had it rebuilt by a professional shop and it lasted 1 year. I bought an AM starter for under $130 and it lasted 4 years - same as the OEM.

Go with AM starter rebuilt or new.

https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrica...5------------&vehicleName=2005+Toyota+4Runner



I'm in Bahamas so I do a lot more starts than normal.

 

[Mantilgh]

Interesting, thanks for the correction.



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[AuSeeker]

Just an FYI on the repair kit mentioned in this topic and the linked reference topic, according to the "check fit" on Amazon this part/repair kit is for the V8 starter and it says does not fit the V6 starter...but as the OP in the linked reference topic shows it will work for the V6 starter, I do see a small difference in the old parts/contacts and the contacts in the kit but apparently not enough of a difference that it won't work in the V6 starter, but it would be better to have the correct kit for the V6.

I did a little searching and the correct kit for the V6 is the Victory Lap ND-36SOL Solenoid Repair Kit, the difference in the part number for the V8 is 34 instead of 36 for the V6 in the part number, this is the part number for the V8 Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit, both kits are the same price.

Here's a link to the kit for the V6 repair kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345016430482&psc=1

Here's a link to the kit for the V8 repair kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-...automotive&vehicleId=5&vehicleType=automotive

Interesting, thanks for the correction.



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Doing a bit more research using the Amazon "check fit" function it says that the Victory Lap ND-36SOL Solenoid Repair Kit will fit both the V8 and the V6, it's strange that is the case since it says the Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit won't work for the V6 but as we know it does seem to work Ok for the most part.

I also looked at new starters for both the V6 and the V8 and they both look much the same except the mounting flange is at different angles, so I don't see why the solenoid kits would have to be different, IMHO, but either way one of these 2 kits should work for either engine.

 

[Dave A 4Runner]

Thought I had worn contacts...

I too have what I believed to be a starter contact issue. My 2006 V6 4.0L Sport developed a longer than normal time to disengage after starting, only occurring when the temp would drop to around 35, and had a 'ZZZT" sound for a few seconds after starting. (In the old days we would refer to it as the Bendix not releasing.) I thought it might have been worn contacts or plunger per other posts in the forum. Bought the contact kit above and replaced them and the plunger with the same issue continuing at even a few degrees warmer than before.

I've also replaced the starter and the starter relay, with neither fixing the problem.
I'm hoping to find out what is causing this and getting it fixed before it ruins the new starter, wiring or battery by causing something to overheat or burn up from sticking.

Any help is appreciated, thanks much!! Dave

 

[AuSeeker]

I too have what I believed to be a starter contact issue. My 2006 V6 4.0L Sport developed a longer than normal time to disengage after starting, only occurring when the temp would drop to around 35, and had a 'ZZZT" sound for a few seconds after starting. (In the old days we would refer to it as the Bendix not releasing.) I thought it might have been worn contacts or plunger per other posts in the forum. Bought the contact kit above and replaced them and the plunger with the same issue continuing at even a few degrees warmer than before.

I've also replaced the starter and the starter relay, with neither fixing the problem.
I'm hoping to find out what is causing this and getting it fixed before it ruins the new starter, wiring or battery by causing something to overheat or burn up from sticking.

Any help is appreciated, thanks much!! Dave

Unfortunately it could be the teeth on the flywheel, if they are rough/chewed up to some degree they may not be letting the gear on the starter slide back away from the flywheel, the way the starter gear is released is from when the engine starts running the flywheel is spinning faster which spins the starter gear faster than the starter motor and the starter gear is forced by the counter rotation back into the starter, if the flywheel teeth are roughed up the gear can hang up and not be forced out of mesh by the counter rotation.

The next time you have the starter off try looking at the flywheel teeth, you may have to rotate the engine 1 rotation by hand as you inspect the teeth because it may only be a few teeth that could be causing this issue, if you find this to possibly be the issue you either can try filing the bad teeth a bit to smooth them out in hopes it will let the gear release better, or replace the flywheel which will be very expensive job I'm afraid.

 

[Dave A 4Runner]

Unfortunately it could be the teeth on the flywheel, if they are rough/chewed up to some degree they may not be letting the gear on the starter slide back away from the flywheel, the way the starter gear is released is from when the engine starts running the flywheel is spinning faster which spins the starter gear faster than the starter motor and the starter gear is forced by the counter rotation back into the starter, if the flywheel teeth are roughed up the gear can hang up and not be forced out of mesh by the counter rotation.

The next time you have the starter off try looking at the flywheel teeth, you may have to rotate the engine 1 rotation by hand as you inspect the teeth because it may only be a few teeth that could be causing this issue, if you find this to possibly be the issue you either can try filing the bad teeth a bit to smooth them out in hopes it will let the gear release better, or replace the flywheel which will be very expensive job I'm afraid.

I don't believe that it's they flywheel having worn teeth, since it only happens when the temperature drops into the mid-forties. When it's warmer than that, it simply doesn't occur.

Any other suggestions out there???