starter replacement 3.4 4wd

[shawnstcyr]

Well guys, I had the unpleasant experience of changing the starter on my truck today. Thought I'd share some tips to make it easier for you.

Tools needed:

3/8 drive ratchet
12 to 16" extension
10, 13, and 14 mm sockets
12 mm wrench

As always, disconnecting the battery is step one.
Step 2:
remove the 12 mm bolt holding the transmission dipstick tube to the head and remove tube.

Step 3:
remove the 14 mm drain plug from the trans. pan and drain fluid.

step 4:
using a 1/4 drive and extension, remove the 10mm bolts and drop the transmission pan

Step 5:
remove the black plug going to the starter solenoid and remove the battery cable from the starter (13mm)

Step 6:
using the long extension with a universal joint and 14 mm socket, remove starter bolts

Step 7: once the starter is loose, take the 12 mm wrench and remove the power steering line from the rack and pinion. The will allow room for the starter to be removed.

Installation: reverse steps.

I recommend changing out the transmission filter whille you have the pan off. I tried sEveral different methods of removing the starter and this one was the easiest. The Haynes manual says you can remove the starter through the wheel well, this is not true! GOOD LUCK!

 

[peter78]

That is a good write up. I heard it is a bear to change the starter.

 

[rubbman]

Does that include for a manual?

 

[Victor]

Does that include for a manual?

A manual is going to be a little easier, you don't have the Transmission dipstick in your way.

Shawnstcyr, you did this nitty gritty pain in the ass way. The transmission pan for future referrence does NOT need to be removed. I see your idea in going parallel with the exhaust pipe and down out from the rack and pinion but that's too much unesscessary work. If you wiggle the starter you CAN get it out through the wheel well.

 

[shawnstcyr]

A manual is going to be a little easier, you don't have the Transmission dipstick in your way.

Shawnstcyr, you did this nitty gritty pain in the ass way. The transmission pan for future referrence does NOT need to be removed. I see your idea in going parallel with the exhaust pipe and down out from the rack and pinion but that's too much unesscessary work. If you wiggle the starter you CAN get it out through the wheel well.

Tried it first. Wasn't gonna happen. I even undid the bracket holding the brake line from the ABS pump. No luck. Keep in mind this was an outdoor repair. Also, the filter needed servicing anyway. Maybe there are some minor differences on your 4Runners. This was the most pain free method after an hour of twisting and studying the situation.

 

[Victor]

Tried it first. Wasn't gonna happen. I even undid the bracket holding the brake line from the ABS pump. No luck. Keep in mind this was an outdoor repair. Also, the filter needed servicing anyway. Maybe there are some minor differences on your 4Runners. This was the most pain free method after an hour of twisting and studying the situation.

As long as you figured it out that's all that matters. Everytime I do these starters even though I've done a few there always seems to be the fair share of F bombs haha..

 

[Pintailkiller]

Thanks for the advice. It was a pain in my side for the past 24 hours. Could not break the bolts free - had to let them soak with PB Blaster for about 20 hours.
I hope to never do this again.

 

[threadlessclimber]

I read up a lot before I did the starter swap on my 1999 v6 5spd and the last write up I read said take your time and don't make it harder than it is, engineers did build this truck. I talked to a Toyota tech afterward and he uses a flex extension to get at the starter bolts (Might even remove the exhaust manifold)--me I used a standard wrench and not a ratchet. It's tight but it worked. Surprised the tech.

 

[Robb235]

The starter on my '99 was a total b!tch. I tried changing it in a gravel parking lot, at night, without all my tools I usually have. Needless to say, it didn't go well.

 

[TheeMikeB]

Wow, that sounds like a lot of work for a damn starter. I hate when 'easy' tasks are super complicated becuase you need to remove 900 parts to get to what you need to fix.

Dropping tranny pan to change a starter??? SHeeeeshh.

 

[eplanajr]

No need to drop the pan...
Remove Pass wheel.
Remove dipstick.
Remove brake line bolt.
Remove exhaust hanger bracket.
Remove starter bolts & wires.
stop.. sip beer....
Take starter out from side (it is a square ped round hole deal, but it will come out).

No need to replace the whole starter, just replace the starter contacts (~$10-15 at any local electric motor repair shop)

There's plenty of tutorials on this forum that go into way more detail. Also videos on the ole you tuber.

 

[Arborist77]

I'm having trouble removing the upper part of the transmission dipstick, any tips?

 

[ray122]

I'm having trouble removing the upper part of the transmission dipstick, any tips?

What are you having trouble with? Is the bolt holding the bracket not coming loose? Remove the dipstick first so you dont damage it. Unbolt the bracket (i think its a 12mm if i remember correctly). Then just pull and twist the upper part of the filler tube out. If the bolt wont come loose just hit with some penetrating oil and wail 15min then try again.

 

[weekendclimber]

I don't understand why you have to remove all this stuff in the original post. When I removed mine to replace the contacts, it came out of the wheel well after a bit of twisting. It was out repaired and in in under an hour :shrug:

 

[csp]

Dropping the swaybar out of the way was easier than the wheelwell on mine.

There's no way I'd consider dropping the trans pan.

 

[camdenbuck]

I can't understand where to squeeze the button on this connector:redbrick:

 

[mtbtim]

I can't understand where to squeeze the button on this connector:redbrick:

I just got under my rig and looked at the connection you're talking about. It looks like the push tab is facing towards engine/trans and downwards. It's definitely a hard one to get to. Go to play time 05:01 in the video below that I made and I show the direction I got my arm in there to be able to squeeze and remove the connector. Also, look at play time 17:04 and you can get a good shot of the female side of the connection on the starter. The release clip is definitely pointing in the downward direction and towards the engine/trans.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WV1t5-wcoOI" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Jason B]

Did this 10 years ago (replaced contacts) and had clicking for a few weeks 10 years later. Did it today again. Just new contacts $8.

Old worn contacts above (10 years old)

New contacts

Teeth in perfect shape

 

[Jason B]

Just wanted to mention still using existing original plunger since 1999 when I got the vehicle. Just did contacts $8. This is 2nd time, last time was 10 years ago.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I don't understand why you have to remove all this stuff in the original post. When I removed mine to replace the contacts, it came out of the wheel well after a bit of twisting. It was out repaired and in in under an hour :shrug:

Yep. My 97 sr5 build and repair thread shows the exact orientation to remove the starter from the inner fender.


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