Steering wheel and front end shaking when braking at high speeds

[RyansRunner]

Ok guys, so first thing I know many people think this is the rotors, but I've replaced all my rotors and pads and the shaking didn't even stop for a day. I used whichever ones were from autozone so I have a warranty but I don't think the brakes are the problem.

Is it possible this will have anything to do with my suspension like my lower control arm or bushings? It only seems to happen if I'm on the highway or going over 50mph.

It used to be something I can deal with but now it is shaking way too much and it's almost uncomfortable or feels unsafe.

If anyone has had experience with this and it wasn't the rotors being warped please help and say what you had to do to fix this!!

I am definitely going to take it to the dealership because I assume they will know best on how to fix this issue but o would like to be a little more educated before those guys charge me out the ass for this.

PS. I'm not brand new I just forgot my password and I don't use the email any longer so I had to make a new account

 

[zumogo]

Take it for a tire balance.

 

[turbo8]

Steering rack bushings and steering guide, That got rid of my highway speed braking shakes.

 

[Jhelms]

I second tires, while many will first think of glazed rotors or brake issues (also possible) I have had tires with issues give this exact result. Often the tire was shot, so the replacements cured the issue 100%.

Rotate your tires front to back and see if the issues is drastically reduced or gone. Or, if the tires are at the end of their life, replace them.

 

[Funcrazy1]

I had this.. This is what I did to get rid of my shaking and braking pull! Check your LCA bushing by having someone moving the wheel left and right fast as possible there should be no play. For the steering rack have the truck running and do the something toyota books call for less then 1inch of play on the rack. Ask me now I know how to get rid of it i dropped about 700 on my front end to get it good lol

 

[96LTDrus]

Definitely a common theme on this forum, you're not alone! What others have mentioned are all definite possibilities: slop in steering rack bushings, lower control arm bushings, all potentially exacerbated by wheel balance issues. Oftentimes all of these things work in collusion to create these shimmies and shakes. I had the exact same symptoms, and heck they are still present to some degree it seems, I think in my case it might be pad build up on the rotors(?) which would be disappointing as I have 199mm tundra brakes with brembo calipers and name brand Advics (OE Toyota supplier) pads. In my case I've replaced steering rack bushings as well as LCA bushings, things are better than they've ever been before, but I still get the sensation that there's some pulsation when braking down a long hill at higher speeds or coming onto an offramp.

 

[RyansRunner]

Thanks guys!! I have been told I need to replace my lower control arm. My tired are also oversized and at the end of the life so first thing I'm going to try is just new tires. If not that then I'll try the lower control arm.

I will post here if anything gets the shaking to go away!

 

[Aelfwine]

When I bought my 4runner I had similar issues and still have them but its much better now since I replaced the steering rack with tie rods, UCAs along with Boss COs, sway bar bushings and links, got new tires and rims, did the TBU. With every bit it seems to improve a little. My point is it can be caused by a combination of worn front end components. I still have to do LCA bushings and LBJs, hope it'll take care of it.

Good luck to you!

 

[dcanelon]

Your problem sounds like disk brakes unevenly worn. I have had this problem before, and this is one of the most common causes of vibration when touching the brakes. I would have the front disk brakes rectified.
Hope this helps.

 

[96LTDrus]

Your problem sounds like disk brakes unevenly worn. I have had this problem before, and this is one of the most common causes of vibration when touching the brakes. I would have the front disk brakes rectified.
Hope this helps.

Did you bother to read the post?:redbrick:

he said he just replaced the rotors! Now, having said that, there is a possibility that the new rotors, if they are of the Duralast variety or other cheap parts store fodder, have terrible runout right out of the box. This has happened before. I'd consider taking them back to swap them for a different set just as a fairly easy (and free) test.

 

[atalarico]

Yep, I'm in a similar boat, and it's been confirmed to be a LCA bushing issue. The trick is finding a mechanic who will replace the bushings instead of the whole control arm. It's almost a wash in cost because of the labor.

The LCAs and UCAs are the last on my list of things I haven't replaced yet in the front suspension, but it's getting pretty bad and it's really just not fun to drive because it feels like the damn thing is going to fall apart when it hits bumps and god forbid if I have to brake after hitting a bump.

Ah well. Let us know how it turns out!

 

[papabear1126]

Cont.- Left Front Braking Issue, Wheel Bearing?

Definitely a common theme on this forum, you're not alone! What others have mentioned are all definite possibilities: slop in steering rack bushings, lower control arm bushings, all potentially exacerbated by wheel balance issues. Oftentimes all of these things work in collusion to create these shimmies and shakes. I had the exact same symptoms, and heck they are still present to some degree it seems, I think in my case it might be pad build up on the rotors(?) which would be disappointing as I have 199mm tundra brakes with brembo calipers and name brand Advics (OE Toyota supplier) pads. In my case I've replaced steering rack bushings as well as LCA bushings, things are better than they've ever been before, but I still get the sensation that there's some pulsation when braking down a long hill at higher speeds or coming onto an offramp.

It appears many of us have this issue, greatly appreciate all who contribute, this is damn near the most insane anything has made me yet!!
I see from the above and other posts that Even IF I do all the above incl the TBUpgrade some STILL have the same issue....
I have a 97 Lmtd, 3.4 automatic, 141k

This started, was first noticed and first time I replaced pads and rotors I found the left front Only inside rotor surface and pad only wore closest to center and outer area even started rusting, see all I repeated have replaced below.
Have a ever increasing failure sound in the left front brake as if the pad is starting to grind on the rotor. BUT,
Have read all the threads and posts I can find on this....
Replaced: pads, rotors, calipers 3x, latest Brembo rotors, OEM pads, calipers, all new pins and hardware OEM as per all your posts, tried all the new brake bedding procedures posted.
Replaced brake lines both sides, flushed and fresh fluids, rear to front engagement adjusted.
STILL get left front grinding sound start and increase and wear the pad and rotor left front only when braking on hills.
Only thing that is left I can think of is the left front Wheel Bearing?
BUT, I get No grinding noise coasting, under power, left or right turning. Only under load/hill braking in left front wheel.
Currently trying to determine IF wheel bearing bad, going to pull wheel, put gauge against rotor and try to measure deflection during rotating by hand And trying to move rotor by hand...
I don't want to go through any more $ without being at least a Good Guess.
*** Sounds like MANY of us are running into this too so Please, post replies asap. Thanks***
Hate to spend on wheel bearing IF the other failed wheel bearing clues are not there....
Wits ENd!!!

 

[Uncle_Jim]

Steering shake when braking at higer speed

First post but lurked of over a year.

I have a 2004 Sport V6 4th Gen with 85,000 miles on it. I've owned it for over a year, use it as my daily driver as well as to tow my rowboat around. The vehicle is solid and has never made so much as a squeak.

On my way into work this morning, I exited the highway at 65mph and applied the brakes. Luckily had a good grip on the wheel as I was hit with some very violent shaking and brake pedal feedback. Out of nowhere, there seems to be a major issue and it feels unsafe to drive. I limped into the office and checked the rotors....resulting in my fingerprint being burned off!

I let the vehicle cool and went back out 2 hours later for a test drive. I took it down a few side streets, gently applied the brakes, stomped on the brakes, etc. Everything was fine. No shaking, no pulsing, no wobble....smooth as silk. I continued to drive it around to allow the parts to heat up a bit and merged onto the highway. Still good. When exiting, I hit the brakes and the violent wobble was back. It wobbled all the way to the stop. I turned right, drove 100 yards at low speed and touched the brakes and got violent wobbles.

I've read up on this a bit before posting. Some say warped rotors, some suggest replacing control arm bushings and others think its a stuck caliper. I'm baffled as their has been not indication of any problems (noise or feel) prior to this morning. I assumed that something broke or that the ABS is malfunctioning without tripping the warning light. Doesn't feel safe to drive, can't / see any broken parts and the mechanic can't look at it until Friday.

Anyone ever come up with the solution to this other than running through all the brake parts, bushings, etc.....part by part until it stops?

Thanks.

 

[tystaco]

First post but lurked of over a year.

I have a 2004 Sport V6 4th Gen with 85,000 miles on it. I've owned it for over a year, use it as my daily driver as well as to tow my rowboat around. The vehicle is solid and has never made so much as a squeak.

On my way into work this morning, I exited the highway at 65mph and applied the brakes. Luckily had a good grip on the wheel as I was hit with some very violent shaking and brake pedal feedback. Out of nowhere, there seems to be a major issue and it feels unsafe to drive. I limped into the office and checked the rotors....resulting in my fingerprint being burned off!

I let the vehicle cool and went back out 2 hours later for a test drive. I took it down a few side streets, gently applied the brakes, stomped on the brakes, etc. Everything was fine. No shaking, no pulsing, no wobble....smooth as silk. I continued to drive it around to allow the parts to heat up a bit and merged onto the highway. Still good. When exiting, I hit the brakes and the violent wobble was back. It wobbled all the way to the stop. I turned right, drove 100 yards at low speed and touched the brakes and got violent wobbles.

I've read up on this a bit before posting. Some say warped rotors, some suggest replacing control arm bushings and others think its a stuck caliper. I'm baffled as their has been not indication of any problems (noise or feel) prior to this morning. I assumed that something broke or that the ABS is malfunctioning without tripping the warning light. Doesn't feel safe to drive, can't / see any broken parts and the mechanic can't look at it until Friday.

Anyone ever come up with the solution to this other than running through all the brake parts, bushings, etc.....part by part until it stops?

Thanks.

Different rigs for sure than us 3rd gen'ers, but I had shake at speed pressing the brakes. Just did a brake upgrade and found both of my calipers were original and were somewhat seized on 1 side each...resulting in uneven pad wear. With the Tundra Brake Upgrade (calipers, rotors, and pads) the shake is completely gone.

If you have been driving regularly I am not sure how likely it is to seize a caliper, but it isn't out of the question. I'd start on the brake front, easy to do yourself and as you have said many times...it happens when braking.

 

[lucidberries]

Definitely a common theme on this forum, you're not alone! What others have mentioned are all definite possibilities: slop in steering rack bushings, lower control arm bushings, all potentially exacerbated by wheel balance issues. Oftentimes all of these things work in collusion to create these shimmies and shakes. I had the exact same symptoms, and heck they are still present to some degree it seems, I think in my case it might be pad build up on the rotors(?) which would be disappointing as I have 199mm tundra brakes with brembo calipers and name brand Advics (OE Toyota supplier) pads. In my case I've replaced steering rack bushings as well as LCA bushings, things are better than they've ever been before, but I still get the sensation that there's some pulsation when braking down a long hill at higher speeds or coming onto an offramp.

I wanted to share my situation here - and this comment seemed to resonate the most for me.

Just had my 2000 in the shop for violent shaking when braking.

1. Shop replaced front calipers, pads, and rotors with all new OEM. No real change, still lots of shaking while braking...

2. Shop replaced both lower control arms (entire arms). Reduced shaking a bit more, but still pretty bad...

3. Shop replaced the rear drums (not the shoes) with new OEM. Shaking is mostly fixed, like 85%.

Additional notes: My Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac tires have around 10k and have rotated them twice.. and the shaking is only while braking so rules out the balance issue?

They did not report any other issues with bushings (steering rack as others have mentioned). What should I be looking at to get that last bit of shaking gone for good?

This has been an adventure lol.

 

[Bad Luck]

I wanted to share my situation here - and this comment seemed to resonate the most for me.

Just had my 2000 in the shop for violent shaking when braking.

1. Shop replaced front calipers, pads, and rotors with all new OEM. No real change, still lots of shaking while braking...

2. Shop replaced both lower control arms (entire arms). Reduced shaking a bit more, but still pretty bad...

3. Shop replaced the rear drums (not the shoes) with new OEM. Shaking is mostly fixed, like 85%.

Additional notes: My Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac tires have around 10k and have rotated them twice.. and the shaking is only while braking so rules out the balance issue?

They did not report any other issues with bushings (steering rack as others have mentioned). What should I be looking at to get that last bit of shaking gone for good?

This has been an adventure lol.

If the vibration is only while braking then your tire balance is fine.

Is the vibration while braking in the steering wheel (you can watch the steering wheel turn left and right while braking), the entire vehicle shakes (felt mostly in the seat and brake pedal), or both?

 

[lucidberries]

If the vibration is only while braking then your tire balance is fine.

Is the vibration while braking in the steering wheel (you can watch the steering wheel turn left and right while braking), the entire vehicle shakes (felt mostly in the seat and brake pedal), or both?

The shuttering is definitely not the steering wheel - that is rock solid.

I would say the pedal vibrates a bit, but it's sort of more like the whole truck shakes and I can feel it in the pedal?... Surprisingly hard to explain.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

The shuttering is definitely not the steering wheel - that is rock solid.

I would say the pedal vibrates a bit, but it's sort of more like the whole truck shakes and I can feel it in the pedal?... Surprisingly hard to explain.

Might want to check your cv axles for slop. At each end. It's a possibility worth checking..

 

[lucidberries]

Might want to check your cv axles for slop. At each end. It's a possibility worth checking..

At the risk of sounding a bit naive, would the guys at the shop not have noticed/checked them when I asked them to check everything?

I’m really depending on the guys down at the shop as I trust them and unfortunately don’t have the means to work on it myself at this point in time.

 

[Sparky 97Runner]

3. Shop replaced the rear drums (not the shoes) with new OEM. Shaking is mostly fixed, like 85%.

Use your parking brake to further isolate your rear brakes. Don't pull hard enough to lock them up, just enough to feel shaking. Then have your shop do a full rear brake job. Shoes, cylinders and machine your new drums to make sure they're perfectly round. Also, have them check for play in the rear bearings and replace if out of spec.