stereo confusion

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Walkenvol

New member
I purchased a 2003 which had had the original stereo (appears to have been the JBL) replaced with aftermarket and prior to me getting the truck the aftermarket head unit and aftermarket amp were removed. Pictures 1 and 2 are the receipts from where the PO had the aftermarket equipment installed. The other pictures are what's in the truck currently. It appears to me they were utilizing the original speakers.

I have no real experience with stereo equipment outside of installing a couple of head units without external amps and speakers into some prior vehicles. Was hoping some of the audio experts on board might recommend a good head unit to install myself. I don't do any music blasting but do enjoy a quality clear sound system in cars. If its not too much effort, I'd like to have Bluetooth for the safety factor.

I've read a couple of threads indicating my truck may have a factory amp behind the rear passenger wheel. If so, how does one access it and can it be used with an aftermarket head unit? I'd also like to retain the stereo controls on the steering wheel if possible.

Again, I've read a few threads but they're usually talking over my head based on my knowledge level. I'd be eternally grateful if one of you audio experts would advise / educate me on my best choices.

Thanks - Tim




They obviously dropped some bank ($1,375) for this sound system?


 
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This is the wiring where the aftermarket amp was located behind the driver's rear seat. I haul a dog and other stuff such that that location isn't really an option for me.



Here's the rear wheel well where I think the factory amp is located?
 
Well it looks like they installed a aftermarket head unit. Took the unit out. You are left with the steering control convertor, and amp convertor allow you to use the factory amp. (this unit has the cover off maybe to save space in dash area).

Also look like they ran RCA wires off the HU for a seperate rear sub. Tapped into the blue wire in the back used as a remote signal.

THey used the oem amp for all the speakers and had a seperate amp for a seperate sub.

You can just get any cheap HU and rewire the existing, and keep steering controls. You can search metra axxess to program steering controls.

This is not difficult for a audio shop to put back. However if you never done this it can be a pain.

IMO go to a shop and save the headache. I installed it the same way, and it took a while to figure everything out. in your case spend 300 bucks an have a shop put in a stereo and it will be decent.

O and put on some shoes!! :p
 

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I thought everybody knew we don't wear shoes in Tennessee until it gets below freezing?

Thanks for the feedback. I found the cover to the "amp converter" you referenced laying inside the dash so it just came unclipped. I'd love to find a link that shows the proper way to wire everything up as the "audio" shops around here are a bunch of teenagers who are known to butcher things up. I can typically get things done correctly when I have the information to work with.
 
Walkenvol said:
I thought everybody knew we don't wear shoes in Tennessee until it gets below freezing?

Thanks for the feedback. I found the cover to the "amp converter" you referenced laying inside the dash so it just came unclipped. I'd love to find a link that shows the proper way to wire everything up as the "audio" shops around here are a bunch of teenagers who are known to butcher things up. I can typically get things done correctly when I have the information to work with.
Click to expand...



You really just need a HU. Wire up remote signal. Acc positive. And ground. That is comming out the other end of the amp converter. Go to metrex and print out a programming knstructions for steering controls. Without seekmg the wires i cant really see whats butchered or not
 
Appears the removed head unit was a Kenwood KDC-X796. Are most of the aftermarket head units the same or would there be a benefit to getting another Kenwood wiring wise?

Also, that ROCKFORD punch 300-1 listed is an amplifier. There are 2 large wires (6 gauge or so) run up to the battery which I thought was to power the amp? This makes me think the factory amp wasn't being utilized unless this 300-1 was only for the sub and all the other speakers were powered via the JBL factory amp?
 
If it was a Kenwood and you want plug and play compatibility, then look for one that uses the same Kenwood wiring harness. That way you don't have to crimp or solder anything. Look on Crutchfield their customer service is top notch and they'll recommend a good HU.
 
Well, I ended up ordering a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X599 from Crutchfields. Spoke with one of their technicians and explained what was there before and he steered me this way. I'm banking on their technical support being of help. Supposed to arrive Wednesday so we shall see?
 
Finally got around to installing the new Kenwood today. Was able to hook everything up like I suspected and I'm getting sound from all speakers including he factory sub in the back. Steering wheel controls are working! Haven't run the Bluetooth mic so I haven't verified the cell phone works yet but no reason to think it won't.

Only problem at the moment is the center front dash speaker appears to over power all the other speakers and I've not been able to adjust it out via the kenwood head unit. Are there adjustments in the amp converter unit as the head unit appears to be designed for 4 speakers; front / rear and left / right but the JBL also has the front center and the 2 small speakers up high in the very back along with the 2 small speakers in the front door. Is my thinking off base that somehow the amp converter unit takes the input from the the 4 large single wires for the front / rear (the 8 wires in the head unit wiring harness aren't utilized with this amp converter) and splits the signal between the additional 6 speakers? How can I balance all 10 speakers?

At the moment I've unplugged the center dash speaker and have a fairly solid sound adjusted with the head unit. Is this going to be my only option or is there a way to keep the center dash speaker?

One other thing that I didn't understand, was the white with red strip wire on pin 7 in the factory harness was cut and. Not connected to anything. The wiring .pdf shows it as "mute". Without this will the music mute when the Bluetooth passes through a call or does the kenwood head unit handle this now? Was it originally a mute in conjunction with the navigation system?

Thx
 
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Do I have a problem with the steering wheel stereo controls?

I have 2 other vehicles (Lexus and Volvo) with steering wheel controls. When using the < and > buttons it moves the stereo channels between the "saved" stations. On my recent 4Runner Kenwood install, these buttons appear to initiate the search function? Any advice on how to program it to operate like the Lexus and Volvo?

thanks!
 
There is an app for the phone and u can connect the aswc to it to reprogram the buttons. I prefer using an idatalink maestro than the Metra part. Less headache and you program it off the web. Either your going to have to hold the week button for 2 seconds to go to your presets.
 
Walkenvol said:
Do I have a problem with the steering wheel stereo controls?

I have 2 other vehicles (Lexus and Volvo) with steering wheel controls. When using the < and > buttons it moves the stereo channels between the "saved" stations. On my recent 4Runner Kenwood install, these buttons appear to initiate the search function? Any advice on how to program it to operate like the Lexus and Volvo?

thanks!
Click to expand...
The annoying thing with the channel changer on an 03 is you push the direction and hold until it beeps. Then it goes to the next preset. If you just push and release the radio scans.
 
riceandpho said:
There is an app for the phone and u can connect the aswc to it to reprogram the buttons. I prefer using an idatalink maestro than the Metra part. Less headache and you program it off the web. Either your going to have to hold the week button for 2 seconds to go to your presets.
Click to expand...

There's an app?
 
Thank you gentlemen for this helpful info!

Looks like I'll have to stick with the 2 second delay as all my devices are Apple and it appears android is required?
 
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