Strange sound when coasting... is it normal?

pjbrownva

New member
My 4Runner makes a strange sound, especially when I'm coasting.

The truck is new to me, and I've made several changes and upgrades, including some work that I've done myself, so I don't know if the sound is normal, or if it is an indication that I've messed something up that needs fixing.

I'm taking it to a local shop to have them check it, and may also take it to the dealer, but I also wanted to post to the board since there is so much knowledge here.

I've linked to a video where you can see my speedo and tach and hear the noise.

The rest of the info below is some history that may or may not be relevant.

Thanks, guys!

-Philip

---------

The truck is new to me.

I put on 4 new Michelin Defender LTX 265/60R18 about 700 miles ago.

Upgraded all 4 brakes... 5 gen calipers all around. 5th gen front rotors, 4th gen rear rotors, brand new ceramic pads all around.

Put on Bilstien 5100's & FJ coils with firestone booster airbags inside the rear springs

Upgraded Front & Rear Sway bar bushings to Polyurethane.

Asked a local garage to lubricate the propeller (drive shaft) for me.

Upgraded rear sway bar end links to polyurethane using an approach I found here on the forum.

Had 4 wheel alignment and all 4 tires balanced after I did the work.

don't know enough to if there is a problem such as...

Did I mess up the CV joints? They were extended very far and at some weird angeles while I was doing the work to replace the shocks and springs.

Are the new tires making the noise because of the deep tread... (maybe the noise is normal).

Is it the propeller lube (maybe too much lube?)..

...etc

????
 
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My 4Runner makes a strange sound, especially when I'm coasting.

Found the problem.

The right sway bar end link broke and was hanging down rubbing on the axel.

The local shop said I should replace both the sway bar link and the axel.

Can anyone give me advice on getting a new axel?

New? Used? OEM? Aftermarket?

I don't know much about this. I want quality, but don't need to waste money.

Photo of the break is attached.

I'm hoping that [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] will take pitty on me, and ship me one of the first sets of the sway bar end links from his group buy, since mine just broke!

-Phil
 

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I guess I will take their word for it if they say it broke... though to be honest it looks more like someone forgot to put the nut back on (usually they break on the little shaft between the two joints before they break anywhere else...), but the picture quality and grease makes it hard to be sure.

But yeah, that's basically why you can't have traditional style disconnects and why having some beefier sway bar links if you do go off-roading and want to retain on-road manners is not a bad idea.

As for axle replacement, I would go with Toyota as it's the best replacement axle next to say CVJ (also pricey). A lot of the Napa, Autozone, ect. shafts seem to be for the most part hit or miss off-roading from what I've seen a lot of people posting; but if money is tight and the vehicle is not going to be used heavily off-road you might get away with one of those cheaper units. I would agree with the shop though that the shaft should be replaced, I know it's a big piece of metal and it looks okay for the most part, but all those metal shavings and the sway bar link bouncing off of it just introduces too much possibility of expedited wear to feel comfortable about just rebooting it.

Best of luck!
 
I guess I will take their word for it if they say it broke... though to be honest it looks more like someone forgot to put the nut back on (usually they break on the little shaft between the two joints before they break anywhere else...),
...

As for axle replacement, I would go with Toyota as it's the best replacement axle next to say CVJ (also pricey). A lot of the Napa, Autozone, ect. shafts seem to be for the most part hit or miss off-roading from what I've seen a lot of people posting;
...

Best of luck!

Thank you!

Should you use thread locker on the nuts for the sway bar end links, or is torquing it properly enough?

I've recently learned from reading online that suspension parts should be torqued after you take the truck off of jack stands and have the truck back on the ground.

If the nut came off, that would be on me, since I did the work myself to add the billy 5100 & FJ coils. I *know* I put the nut on, but I may have forgotten to tighten it... Oh well, my (costly) mistake. At least no one was hurt!

I have new heavy duty sway bar links coming from [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION], so I'll get a new OEM axel and I should be good.

Thanks [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION], and @CXS for the info and advice, especially confirming that I should go OEM on the axel, and also explaining why.


Sincerely,

-Phil
 
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I've never seen it suggested that thread locker be used. Generally torquing it to spec is enough.

I've had one break, but I've never had a nut work it's way loose.
 
I've never seen it suggested that thread locker be used. Generally torquing it to spec is enough.

I've had one break, but I've never had a nut work it's way loose.

Any input on a good way to clean up the grease that's everywhere?

I know that's basic stuff, but I'm not a mechanic.

Simple Green? Engine Degreaser? GoJo hand cleaner? Brake cleaner? Use Power washer (or not)?

I figure, why work harder than I have too... I'm sure someone with experience
can tell me what works well, and also keep me from making any dumb mistakes (such as damaging something with a power washer!).

Appreciated in advance... I know what I'll be doing this weekend or early next week :-)
 
I'd start with a garden hose and sprayer and see where that gets you. Simple Green is good stuff but it's corrosive to aluminum so keep it off of your wheels.
 

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