Strawberry Milkshake preventions?

arracado said:
Thanks man, I appreciate that!

With regards to replacing the radiator...is there any way to tell the age/condition of the one that's in there? Like some way to gauge the likelihood of the breach? Mine looks pretty nice...I'm thinking it's not the original but I have no way of telling.
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glad to help! sometimes they have a sticker like a battery but not likely
 
49Runner said:
Other then installing a tranny cooler is there any way to safe gaurd against the milkshake?
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Not really. I changed my oem radiator a few days ago even though it looked and worked fine. There was some internal damage that I don't think was preventable (see dissection post for pictures). I replaced it with the Koyo brand, hooking the tranny lines back up to the radiator rather than an external cooler. It should be good to go for a long time.

-RC
 
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Thanks guys... just going through all the threads (currently on page 82), trying to make priorties for servicing.

I don't have a probelm adding a cooler, just wanted to see if this issue was preventable with regular service.

I picked up a '97 ltd w/rrlock, 186,000 miles on it in Spring. Sounds like a cooler is going to take priority over my timing belt.

I already took care of tires, suspension, brakes, all fluids (to include diffs)... rack bushings go in this weekend.

Thanks All...
 
01t4rnr said:
I reasearched it quite a bit and decided on the B&M 70268 due to the fact that many people had different brands and the design of the B&M outperformed the others . Tests were done with gauges in variable weather conditions. The cooler in your stock radiator cant be any more efficient than this one, cant speak on subfreezing temps as im in SC but as far as towing youll be fine.
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Actually, from my experience with my B&M 70268....it is NOT enough for towing. I've hit 205 in the summer time when I'm NOT towing anything.

I just ordered a 70264 for my sisters 4Runner, and I'm going to replace my 70268 with a 70264.



Also, the trans warms up enough without having the fluid going through the radiator. Even in really cold temps, like already mentioned. I've been paying close attention to mine (I use a Scangauge II, and can see ATF and coolant both)...and even when it's 30 degrees outside, by the time the coolant is up to 185-190 and the thermostat opens, the ATF is at least 115 degrees...usually warmer. Until the thermostat opens, the radiator is just as cold as the air...so the "warming" effect of the radiator doesn't go into effect until it opens. Just because your coolant is 160...and your ATF is 90.....running it through the radiator still wouldn't help it warm up at that point.
 
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quicksilvr said:
Actually, from my experience with my B&M 70268....it is NOT enough for towing. I've hit 205 in the summer time when I'm NOT towing anything.

I just ordered a 70264 for my sisters 4Runner, and I'm going to replace my 70268 with a 70264.
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Im not worried about towing here , guess it depends on where youre located and what youre towing. We're pretty much completely flat on the east coast of SC but i could see to where it might be undersized for certain areas
 
01t4rnr said:
Im not worried about towing here , guess it depends on where youre located and what youre towing. We're pretty much completely flat on the east coast of SC but i could see to where it might be undersized for certain areas
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Yup, you got it. 70268 works great for a 4runner on decently flat terrain, with no major towing. Anything more, and you need something bigger...or at least thicker, like the 70264.
 
etc. said:
Another long term option is too use distilled water in your radiator. This will help cut down on corrosion that tap and even drinking water do not do.
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yeah dont listen to this guy i did that for about a 2 weeks and i had to change my water pump and radiator because of corosion literally balls of mud type things would come out of the radiator and hoses it was just pure rust and more than $300 im good. lol!
 
dg66 said:
yeah dont listen to this guy i did that for about a 2 weeks and i had to change my water pump and radiator because of corosion literally balls of mud type things would come out of the radiator and hoses it was just pure rust and more than $300 im good. lol!
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What exactly did you do? His point about using distilled water WITH coolant is a good one. Did you not flush your cooling system? Did you run it with straight water and no coolant mixed in? Those "balls of mud type things" you are referring too is all the sh*t you want to flush out of your cooling system.
 
PitbullRescuer said:
What exactly did you do? His point about using distilled water WITH coolant is a good one. Did you not flush your cooling system? Did you run it with straight water and no coolant mixed in? Those "balls of mud type things" you are referring too is all the sh*t you want to flush out of your cooling system.
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lol, i use no coolant , straight distilled water with a touch of salt and have my battery hooked up to the radiator..is this ok?

parts of this thread had me thinking wtf is he doing?!?!

btw 90% of coolant you find now is already premixed, adding water just dilutes it further and can and or will cause rust issues ...no one likes rusty freeze plugs at the back of the engine.....
(i'm sure most of you guys know this but from the talk here thought i should throw that out there)
 
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