Stripped out threads for long Supercharger Bolt- Any Solutions?

S

SocalRunner15

New member
Hey Guys,

I was doing a supercharger rebuild (gen 2) for my 2000 4runner and the thread on the long S/C bolt ended up getting stripped.

What option do i have? Is there anything i could do besides getting a new intake manifold?
 
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gamefreakgc said:
It is 8 X 1.25 X 170mm per the supercharger installation manual.
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beautiful. Went ahead and bought a helicoil kit for m8 x1.25. Going to try it out tommorow. I'm assuming the thread holes in the intake don't have an opening into the intake manifold? Should be pretty straightforward...

Thanks everyone!
 
SocalRunner15 said:
btw any tips on keeping the drill bit straight?
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You probably already finished but the deeper it goes the straighter it becomes. Obviously you'll want to be as straight as possible but it'll correct itself if you are a little bit off. It's aluminum and soft so not too hard to do.
 
Went ahead and did it. Super easy to do...just have to take your time.

One tip which was a good one was to use the rounded drill bits which auto center and not the pilot point drill bits.

Supercharger is bolted back on (did a rebuild) and also sent off the injectors for a cleaning/refresh.

Everything is working great except for a slightly higher idle. Its now running 150 rpms higher when warmed up. I'll have to look into adjusting that (unless it auto adjusts over time...perhaps)...
 
I hope you put red loctite on the helicoil before you installed it, otherwise it might come out and you'll have to re-install another one the next time you take it apart.

I just went through this on a 4Runner I bought 6 months ago. 2 of the spark plugs came out with helicoils on them, so while changing the valve cover gaskets I had to order a kit to finish it off. I would keep a spare on hand for that in the future.
 
SocalRunner15 said:
Went ahead and did it. Super easy to do...just have to take your time.

One tip which was a good one was to use the rounded drill bits which auto center and not the pilot point drill bits.

Supercharger is bolted back on (did a rebuild) and also sent off the injectors for a cleaning/refresh.

Everything is working great except for a slightly higher idle. Its now running 150 rpms higher when warmed up. I'll have to look into adjusting that (unless it auto adjusts over time...perhaps)...
Click to expand...

If you pulled the EFI fuse or removed the battery cable, yes give it time. If it persists look into seeing if you have a small vacuum leak somewhere like a gasket that is just a tiny bit loose.
 
gamefreakgc said:
If you pulled the EFI fuse or removed the battery cable, yes give it time. If it persists look into seeing if you have a small vacuum leak somewhere like a gasket that is just a tiny bit loose.
Click to expand...

I pulled the efi but its persisting. I took apart the throttle body again just to make sure everything was gtg but it went even higher lol.

The idle in park (after warmup) is now a steady 900 or so..in drive 750.

I tried the propane trick to see if there were any vac leaks...but nada...
 
SocalRunner15 said:
I pulled the efi but its persisting. I took apart the throttle body again just to make sure everything was gtg but it went even higher lol.

The idle in park (after warmup) is now a steady 900 or so..in drive 750.

I tried the propane trick to see if there were any vac leaks...but nada...
Click to expand...

According to the FSM that is within the accepted range. Mine idles at 700 in drive and 850 in park so very similar as well. It may be higher than you are used to but is not an issue. Just keep an eye on fuel efficiency and short term and long term fuel trims if you have a way to read ECU data. Fuel trims should be +/- 10% or less and MPG's should be unchanged.
 
gamefreakgc said:
According to the FSM that is within the accepted range. Mine idles at 700 in drive and 850 in park so very similar as well. It may be higher than you are used to but is not an issue. Just keep an eye on fuel efficiency and short term and long term fuel trims if you have a way to read ECU data. Fuel trims should be +/- 10% or less and MPG's should be unchanged.
Click to expand...

I ended up cleaning the iac valve..thought maybe it was related but after that my idle went up another 100 in park lol. Its now 700 or so in drive and 950- 1000 in park. It might just be the computer relearning after i reset it but i have driving 35 miles so far. Ill keep driving it and see....


I was also just learning about the short and long term fuel trims. After warm up my short term is +- 3% and my long term is 4.7. If i rev it up just a bit, it goes to 0.
 
SocalRunner15 said:
I was also just learning about the short and long term fuel trims. After warm up my short term is +- 3% and my long term is 4.7. If i rev it up just a bit, it goes to 0.
Click to expand...
That hints that there might be a small vacuum leak, but let it learn and keep going. One thing that has happened is a leak on the throttle plate shaft, which would make some sense based on doing work in that area changing the idle.

-Charlie
 
phattyduck said:
That hints that there might be a small vacuum leak, but let it learn and keep going. One thing that has happened is a leak on the throttle plate shaft, which would make some sense based on doing work in that area changing the idle.

-Charlie
Click to expand...

If that's a leak it's extremely small. I would just chalk that up to engine learning and normal wear and tear.
 
okay so i figured it out. 2 separate issues. There was a small vac tear on the drivers side of the engine which was jacking up the idle to around 900 in park and 750 in drive. Fixed that.

The 2nd issue is a bit of play in the throttle body itself. My truck has almost 300k on it and if you pull on the tb (where the cables connect), idle drops to 700 in park. If you push on it a bit, it jumps to 850 or so... I may look at the washer fix or maybe get a new tb at some point, but its working perfectly fine right now.

Thanks again for all your help!
 
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