Stripped Transmission Drain Plug

[bak3rme]

allllllllllllllll right so looks like i'm the next victim for this. thanks for the info though!

 

[Hacker]

allllllllllllllll right so looks like i'm the next victim for this. thanks for the info though!

Four months on, and my plug fix still doesn't leak at all.

Good luck with your fix!

 

[RunninOnBlue]

allllllllllllllll right so looks like i'm the next victim for this. thanks for the info though!

Yep. Join the club. I did it about 2 years ago. I re-tapped it and added a crush washer and no leaks since.

I also agree with buying the pan gasket. Way easier than messing with RTV gasket stuff.

 

[bak3rme]

what size did you use to re tap if your remember? same size as yotatech recommendation?

 

[RunninOnBlue]

what size did you use to re tap if your remember? same size as yotatech recommendation?

My bolt was more stripped than the pan. So I just bought a new drain plug and washer and re-tapped the pan, from inside, with the same size thread.

 

[bak3rme]

Alright so epic fail here...not only did I strip the bolt. But when I went to tap the hole to a bigger size...I screwed it up. There is also something blocking the way so I can't re tap it all the way.....I guess that is my problem now....can tap the hole because of something blocking the hole.looks like its part of the tranny pan. Any help?

 

[Android_02]

Alright so epic fail here...not only did I strip the bolt. But when I went to tap the hole to a bigger size...I screwed it up. There is also something blocking the way so I can't re tap it all the way.....I guess that is my problem now....can tap the hole because of something blocking the hole.looks like its part of the tranny pan. Any help?

What do you mean there's something blocking the hole that's part of the pan? If you can elaborate a little more...as you can see in the yotatech thread you need a tap that's a little longer than normal.

" A little piece of advice, make sure the tap is long enough to clear the cross member when you twist it. Made that mistake and had to go back to Lowes to get a different longer tap."

"my first tap was 2.25 inches long way to short, second one that worked was 3.25inches. However for the last few twists is had to take on half of the handle off and spin then remove and reattach other way and spin. i would recommend a tap of about 3 and a half inches total length"

 

[bak3rme]

Tapping upside down is difficult lol. Mine where long enough. its just the drill bit did not get to cut enough threads because of something inside the pan that was blocking it from cutting deeper.

 

[stevec5000]

Stores like Pep Boys have replacement drain plugs for pans with stripped threads that have a rubber insert that expands to seal the hole when you tighten the bolt. I don't know if I'd leave one in permanently but it should be good for a temporary fix.

 

[bak3rme]

Stores like Pep Boys have replacement drain plugs for pans with stripped threads that have a rubber insert that expands to seal the hole when you tighten the bolt. I don't know if I'd leave one in permanently but it should be good for a temporary fix.

Thanks Steve, I've managed to tap it a bit more and get a larger bolt in there..its leaking a few drips every hour or so. Its a temp fix..but i'll be looking at a used pan on the classifieds or a part out soon!.

Thanks for that I may look it up though and see if its possible to stay permanent.

 

[t4r4life]

only you could mess this up dude. smh

 

[cpz4480]

This problem must be easier to accomplish than it should be. I just did it with the torque wrench set at 15ft/lb. It is still pretty tight and not currently leaking, but it will not bottom out or reach 15ft/lb. Really don't want to drive it this way 30 miles to work....

 

[amalik]

I'm the latest victim here, except my situation happened after I dropped the pan, put in a new filter, and applied new FIPG, and put the pan back on.

I put a crush washer on the bolt (Specifically from the Dealer). Maybe it wasn't the right size, maybe it was. Either way, it's stripped to death, spins forever when I tried to torque it to 15ft/lbs which is how I discovered the issue. I've tried everything from holding the bolt in place and spinning the other side, hammering a flathead into the pan side of the bolt, tried to drill through it but 12v drills suck for the job, tried a flathead as a pry-bar but don't want to scratch the pan to death, etc.

Next, I'm planning on using a metal cutter and cutting it off and (Assuming I don't have to get the threads repaired), using a new bolt I got from Home Depot that is M10X1.50, but 16mm was the smallest I could find and the OEM one I'm positive is much smaller. Anyone see any issues using a Zinc bolt and this size? I think the material of the OEM one is different, definitely doesn't seem like Zinc.

If this solution does work, does anyone think I have to scrub off the old and apply new Permatex FIPG? The one I put on there is from yesterday, but the pan has been off since last night when I had the bolt issue, it's dried in pretty well.

 

[DosYotas]

Looks like I am the next victim. I was looking at another post that had the torque setting at 27 ft / lbs but that was probably for the sealed trans. Thus now in same boat. I hadn't refilled it yet so I pulled the pan back down after trying the screwdriver prying technique to no avail. I gave up for the day but will give it another try this week. How did you all end up getting the plug out. Should I give it some help with the ever useful Mr Hammer from the inside?

 

[Coopsdaddy]

I posted on this just last month,I fallowed the torque specs in the stickys section that said 20 ft lbs,it needs to be changed to 15.
I heli coiled mine to 3/8x16 and got a flange bolt from tractor supply and cut it shorter,also used new toyota crush washer.

 

[HoosierSR5]

I also had the dreaded stripped drain bolt. Fortunately, when it happened I was able to get the bolt tight enough that it didn't leak so I drove it that way until my next scheduled maintenance. However, when I went to do the next drain and refill the bolt would not come out due to the stripped threads. So, I purchased a new pan from Toyota for around $100, yanked the bolt out with some vice grips, and pulled the old pan. Then I went ahead and replaced the filter, threw on some FIPG and bolted up the new pan. I was much more gentle with the drain bolt and didn't even try to get to the recommended 20 ft./lb. torque spec. No leaks, clean magnets and synthetic ATF.


Edit: Just another piece of information. When I purchased the new pan from Toyota they gave me the California spec. pan (Part #3510635110). I checked the part number online and called to ask if they were the same as the Federal emissions vehicles call for Part #3510635100. The parts guy assured me that the 110 would work on my vehicle. However, when I got the pan home the dipstick tubes were slightly different. The California pan's dipstick tube is straighter (probably because of the dual cat exhaust) than the Federal, which has more bends in the lower tube. When I dry fitted, the California pan dipstick tube ran directly into my exhaust. Long story short, make sure if you replace the pan that you get the right one.

 

[quicksilvr]

My experience with the trans pan and bolt:

The factory bolt is designed to be used with a crush washer. If the factory bolt ever gets reinstalled into the pan WITHOUT a crush washer, and then tightened down (but not stripped), the pan is still usually ruined. Because that little shoulder on the bolt gets forced up into the pan and ruins the threads. If you try to go back with a crush washer after the pans been compromised by a washer-less bolt, it won't seem to tighten down correctly and seal, and then it strips when you try to. But if some goofball (or yourself) forgot the washer at some point and tightend the bolt down anyway....just keep using the bolt without the washer....carefully. Tight enough to snug down, but not too tight to strip it.


All that said,' once it's already stripped, I've drilled the bolt out and re-tapped the pan for a bigger one.

 

[repo]

My experience with the trans pan and bolt:

The factory bolt is designed to be used with a crush washer. If the factory bolt ever gets reinstalled into the pan WITHOUT a crush washer, and then tightened down (but not stripped), the pan is still usually ruined. Because that little shoulder on the bolt gets forced up into the pan and ruins the threads. If you try to go back with a crush washer after the pans been compromised by a washer-less bolt, it won't seem to tighten down correctly and seal, and then it strips when you try to. But if some goofball (or yourself) forgot the washer at some point and tightend the bolt down anyway....just keep using the bolt without the washer....carefully. Tight enough to snug down, but not too tight to strip it.

I wish I had read this 30 mins ago. I think whoever did it before me re-used the old washer, and when I went to tighten it with a new washer it just kept going and going never getting to 15 ft/lb. Now it won't come out.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My threads were buggered up when I bought the 97 and changed fluid the first time. I got a new bolt and washer for about 6 dollars from dealer.

You can use the crush washer 2 or 3 times before replacing it. I use aluminum washers when the factory crush washers die.

 

[jeremyc74]

Damn...I'm glad this thread popped up. I'm probably going to do mine this week and I damn sure don't need any extra hassle with a stripped drain plug!