strut removal with KDSS

[jreiter]

So I took my 4runner to the shop today to have the Toytec top plate spacers installed. However, the shop couldn't figure out how to get the struts out due to the KDSS system. I know a lot of people here have done front suspension work on Trail editions, including a lot of people who've done it in their garages.

So my question is: How the heck do you get the front struts off with the KDSS system? Do you just muscle it like crazy? Or is there some trick to disabling KDSS so you can easily disconnect it?

 

[SeattleMike]

I know Jesse installed his own lift kit, maybe check his build thread?

 

[jreiter]

Thanks for the link. I read through it, and he did the install himself and simply states that "the front was no problem." Doh! Why would my local shop have problems with it?

 

[Narkhelek]

It's as simply as unbolting the sway bars from the lower control arms. If needed you can also re-level the KDSS system after messing with it by backing out some screws on the KDSS accumulator under the driver side rocker panel, rocking the truck some, and then re-tightening the screws.

 

[Jesse1983]

Go to a different shop! For life!

Ha. I remember them being somewhat hard to get out, but a second guy pressing on the LCA and you can pull them out. I never disconnected any part of the front sway bar, and I never messed with the KDSS.

I was kinda joking, but I would go to a different shop if they can't do that.

Good luck!

 

[harper7]

I put a Toytec Ultimate on a TE and I had to disconnect the front sway bar too. I tried a 6 ft cheater and it was still too stiff.All 4 wheels were in the air and the KDSS hydraulic actuators retracted up the whole way. Don't know if that could have come into play.

2 bolts hold it onto the LCA , not that big of deal as I used another floor jack under it to support it and jacked it back into place after replacing the CO.

 

[jreiter]

I remember them being somewhat hard to get out, but a second guy pressing on the LCA and you can pull them out. I never disconnected any part of the front sway bar, and I never messed with the KDSS.

So you just brute forced the LCA down enough to free up the strut even without disconnecting the swaybar? On my old Tacoma I had to disconnect the swaybar from the endlink first, and that swaybar wasn't nearly as beefy as the KDSS swaybar! On the Taco I just couldn't get the LCA to go down far enough otherwise. I figured that since the swaybars on the KDSS system are so huge, it would surely be impossible to just use brute force to push the LCA down far enough to free up the strut.

Along those lines, though, would disconnecting the swaybar from the KDSS piston make things easier? I haven't actually looked in there to see how easy it is to disconnect that. I'm used to a normal swaybar with normal endlinks, and those are just a simple bolt to disconnect.

 

[Jesse1983]

Yea basically. I remember the passenger side being harder then the drivers side. I think my friend was stepping on the LCA and I used a crow bar to force the lower part of the strut out. Again, I did not disconnect the sway bar on either side, so just keep trying.

 

[hamiltonj2w1]

I put a Toytec Ultimate on a TE and I had to disconnect the front sway bar too. I tried a 6 ft cheater and it was still too stiff.All 4 wheels were in the air and the KDSS hydraulic actuators retracted up the whole way. Don't know if that could have come into play.

2 bolts hold it onto the LCA , not that big of deal as I used another floor jack under it to support it and jacked it back into place after replacing the CO.

My local shop who installed my lift just did the same undid the 2 bolts on the LCA and put it all back when they were done I don't think they messed with any of the valves on the kdss either. the guy said the passanger side was harder then the driver side though.

 

[MrGrimm]

I just installed my Icon's last week and I unbolted the KDSS sway bar AND used the stock jack to force the LCA to get enough room to get those coilovers on. It was a PITA to get it on.

 

[Hawkdog21]

I just installed my Icon's last week and I unbolted the KDSS sway bar AND used the stock jack to force the LCA to get enough room to get those coilovers on. It was a PITA to get it on.

This is what I did. I used the stock bottle jack to push the LCA down enough to get it in. KDSS fought me the whole way but I did not disconnect.

 

[iDRiVaT4R]

When I did mine I originally didn't touch the swaybars or KDSS. I removed both original shocks/struts, and that was fine. I then installed the driver side coilover, piece of cake. Since there was nothing pushing the passenger side lower a-arm down, the a-arm moved up due to the KDSS piston extending. I couldn't figure out how to lower the a-arm at all. I then realized I could use the floor jack and place it under the swaybar, where it attached to the piston and push it back up. The passenger lower a-arm went back down and I was able to complete the install.

I also had a problem installing the rear passenger side spring with the rear swaybar attached. No way the axle would move low enough for me to push in the spring. I removed the bolt from the passenger side sway bar=axle mount and then it dropped plenty.

Even with these 2 setbacks I still completed the install in about 4 hours solo.

My KDSS system still seems to function normally, so I didn't mess anything up apparently.