stuck and stripped

4

4Runner1371

New member
well...I was attempting to change my differential fluids. My rear differential fill plug was all rusted, in all my attempt to free it, I've stripped the hell out of it. Went to sear to buy bolt out with 24mm socket, but it seems like the biggest socket they have is 19mm..(what gives?).

Need advice. :bash:

P.S....not sure but it looks like the bolt's welded...wtf?!
 
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4Runner1371 said:
P.S....not sure but it looks like the bolt's welded...wtf?!
Click to expand...
It's probably not welded, but it is pretty tight. That's why the advice to get a 6-point socket, as 12-point sockets tend to round off the corners.
 
4Runner1371 said:
well...I was attempting to change my differential fluids. My rear differential fill plug was all rusted, in all my attempt to free it, I've stripped the hell out of it. Went to sear to buy bolt out with 24mm socket, but it seems like the biggest socket they have is 19mm..(what gives?).

Need advice. :bash:

P.S....not sure but it looks like the bolt's welded...wtf?!
Click to expand...

Don't feel bad, buddy. I did that to the front diff bolt that requires a hex key socket (second time, first time I broke the hex key). Not too worried, as when I was changing the fluids, I probably could have left the transfer case alone, the fluid was still transparent so I assume the front was pretty good, too. When the dealer goes to change it and asks me about the front being stripped I'll be like "wtf?". The rear, however, was black and I'm glad I got that changed.
 
A couple of ideas that may work. First hit it with PB blaster before the next attempt. You absolutely want a six point socket for the next attempt. You can try to use a file to restore the original shape. Sometimes this works. In that case you need a slightly smaller socket - may even need to go the US instead of metric to get a tight fit. If you have a grinder consider grinding down the end of the socket to increase surface contact. The end of a socket is "rounded" to get onto nuts. You also may be able to hammer a socket on then use a breaker bar to get the nut loose. Hopefully you tried all this before you pulled the drain plug...
 
oh wow...That's lot of work! I think I'm gonna take it to a mechanic and see if they can pull it out. Yeah, took the advice here and tried to loosen fill plug before I even touch the drain plug. Drain plug looks tough too! Oy! Thanks for the advice though! I LOVE this forum!
 
First, go buy a brand new bolt because where ever you take it to get removed, your going to need a replacement.

Second, you might want to consider taking it to a muffler shop and have them weld a pipe or metal bar to the bolt and then you can spin the bolt loose.
 
Well, finally took it to a local shop and after the mechanic stripping it even further, I was really starting to wonder if this thing was welded. But, then he used a chisel and finally got it out. Word! Now my fill plug's bling blingin from replacing it with a brand new one. Just thought I let you guys know incase you guys run into similar problems.
 
4Runner1371 said:
Well, finally took it to a local shop and after the mechanic stripping it even further, I was really starting to wonder if this thing was welded. But, then he used a chisel and finally got it out. Word! Now my fill plug's bling blingin from replacing it with a brand new one. Just thought I let you guys know incase you guys run into similar problems.
Click to expand...

:lmao: :lmao:
Is yer blingin new fill plug gold plated?
 
HAHAHA! No, it looks like stainless steel. Then again, my previous one was rusted, so who knows. Come to think of it, I think it was the crush washer that was rusted.
 
I could have sworn the socket I used was 15/16th. Changed diffs about 6 months ago so may be wrong.
 
One of the easiest ways to remove a rounded fill/drain plug is to weld a short bolt to it, then spin it off. Quite often, just the heat generated from the welding will be enough to "un-seize" it anyways.
 
97hb said:
I could have sworn the socket I used was 15/16th. Changed diffs about 6 months ago so may be wrong.
Click to expand...
15/16" is 23.8mm, so essentially the same as 24mm, but all the bolts on our trucks are metric.
 
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