Stuck front differential bolts.

[robotmickey]

Hey guys, first post, go easy.
So I just installed ball joint spacers on my 93' T4R, and I also got the differential drop, which should be quick to put in. The problem is the differential mounting bolts are stuck something royal. I have tried a 3 foot breaker bar and laying on them with the impact wrench for thirty seconds, after being soaked in WD40. The diff drop came with new hardware, so I'm will to cut the bolt heads off, but I heard that one of the nuts is captive and the other isn't? I'm afraid to heat it up too much too because of the rubber washers.
Help!

 

[SV_Dude]

I think that with 3 feet of ass on the bolt and you still cannot get the hardware off, you're better off cutting it. Get a grinder and cut the bolt right at the head. As long as you're careful and take your time you won't hurt any of the rubber. It may not be a bad idea to replace the rubber anyways if it looks dry rotted.

 

[robotmickey]

Right, I think thats what I'm going to do. The only thing I'm worried about is the captive nut. If I cut the head off the bolt, how am I supposed to get the rest of it out? Or is the captive nut a myth? Sorry for silly question.

 

[92-SR5]

Instead of using WD40, use PB blaster. Might not solve your problem but it is good stuff to penetrate frozen stuff. Spray it a few times a day for a couple of days.

 

[SV_Dude]

I don't believe there are any captive nuts on the front diff mounts. Cut the head of the bolt(s) off and if there is a captive nut then try vise grips to get the shaft off. Once the tension of the bolt is unloaded then the shafts usually come out without too much fuss.

 

[robotmickey]

Right thanks a bunch guys, I'll let you know.

 

[KidVermicious]

Yes, one of the nuts is captive! I forget which one, but I know one is.

Try PB Blaster and some heat from a propane torch before you start cutting.

 

[nevada]

can you get a pic of exactly what you're dealing with?

 

[robotmickey]

So I got them out. The bolt on the driver's side I cut the head off and pulled the rest of the bolt out from the other side, so no captive nut on that side.
The passenger's side I was finally able to break loose, but the nut came off too, so again there was no captive nut. I have a 1993 V6, don't know if it's different.

 

[Hyde802]

I didnt think any of them were captive...? Rust sucks. Everything gets torched off here. Glad you got it out!

 

[KidVermicious]

Huh. I know for sure one of the bolts on my old '86 was captive, because I remember wasting 30 minutes trying to figure out how to get a wrench on it.

 

[SV_Dude]

Huh. I know for sure one of the bolts on my old '86 was captive, because I remember wasting 30 minutes trying to figure out how to get a wrench on it.

You sure? I don't remember any captive hardware when I did the diff drop on my 87.

 

[KidVermicious]

I'm sure. I think it was drivers side, but one of mine was a square nut welded to the top of the bracket.

 

[92-SR5]

Yes, one of the nuts is captive! I forget which one, but I know one is.

Try PB Blaster and some heat from a propane torch before you start cutting.

Don't use propane. Use mapp gas. Much hotter with much faster heat transfer. :nod: