Subwoofer setup

[Millerrh]

Here's the thread on my JL MicroSub install. It's awesome, and fills in the low end perfectly without sacrificing a crazy amount of space or usability. YMMV.


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...il-premium-finally-integrated-my-amp-sub.html

Awesome thanks! Do you find with the ported design it is a bit boomy? I have always liked sealed enclosures better because they aren't as boomy sounding and just provide tight accurate bass. Not looking for SPL, looking for a balanced sound stage that has a great low end. The size is right for this thing though.

 

[VolksDragon]

Awesome thanks! Do you find with the ported design it is a bit boomy? I have always liked sealed enclosures better because they aren't as boomy sounding and just provide tight accurate bass. Not looking for SPL, looking for a balanced sound stage that has a great low end. The size is right for this thing though.

It's ported, so it rolls off a bit differently than a sealed enclosure, but with the control knob I installed with it, I think it sounds perfect. It enables me to dial in just the right amount of sub for whatever music I'm listening to. Never too boomy or sloppy, IMO.

I've had both sealed and ported in open SUV's, and honestly the little JL sounds the best while complementing the stock system.

 

[Millerrh]

It's ported, so it rolls off a bit differently than a sealed enclosure, but with the control knob I installed with it, I think it sounds perfect. It enables me to dial in just the right amount of sub for whatever music I'm listening to. Never too boomy or sloppy, IMO.

I've had both sealed and ported in open SUV's, and honestly the little JL sounds the best while complementing the stock system.

I think I'm going to go with the sealed JL CS110TG-TW3. Looks like it will fit perfectly with the sub facing the rear seat and still allow the cargo tray to slide in and out. I still have my old JL XD300/1 amp that is pretty small. I'll have to check out the space under the front seat that you found. Might also fit there. Was wondering where people have been putting amps in these trucks. Velcro to attach it to the carpet is genius!

I have never installed a sub before, but am pretty handy with things, so trying to do a bit more research on here to see if I can figure everything out or if I should just take it to a shop. Still confused about what to tap into for signal and remote turn-on, and whether I need a line level converter though. Seems like some people have done it differently than others. Maybe due to what the amp needs. Looks like my amp can accept high or low voltage inputs, and can turn on based on 12 V (the preferred method according to the manual) or based on sensing a signal. If I use the full range output I might just be able to follow your guide to a T. Although ideally, I'd like to figure out how to use one of those adapter harnesses to avoid cutting into factory wiring.

 

[JCDAD]

I think I'm going to go with the sealed JL CS110TG-TW3. Looks like it will fit perfectly with the sub facing the rear seat and still allow the cargo tray to slide in and out. I still have my old JL XD300/1 amp that is pretty small. I'll have to check out the space under the front seat that you found. Might also fit there. Was wondering where people have been putting amps in these trucks. Velcro to attach it to the carpet is genius!

I have never installed a sub before, but am pretty handy with things, so trying to do a bit more research on here to see if I can figure everything out or if I should just take it to a shop. Still confused about what to tap into for signal and remote turn-on, and whether I need a line level converter though. Seems like some people have done it differently than others. Maybe due to what the amp needs. Looks like my amp can accept high or low voltage inputs, and can turn on based on 12 V (the preferred method according to the manual) or based on sensing a signal. If I use the full range output I might just be able to follow your guide to a T. Although ideally, I'd like to figure out how to use one of those adapter harnesses to avoid cutting into factory wiring.

I have a single ported 10" woofer in my truck. The box is custom built but is temporary so I can listen to it in various placements. So far the best has been to place the woofer firing upwards. The bass is tighter and it images very well with the bass seeming as if the woofer is in the front. Aiming to the rear did not yield as good of result, nor did any other method.

Make sure you add an HDRLC bass knob to the XD300/1. A knockout is an ideal choice for location. Much needed. No LOC needed with this amp. You can use high level in with a cut RCA end. I would grab the L+R F door speaker wires behind the head unit. Plenty of room under either seat plus a lot more.

 

[Throcky]

here is how I deleted my 3rd row. 2 Jl 10tw3s in a sealed stealth box. with the husky cargo liner in you cant tell anything has changed.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...u-do-your-5th-gen-today-1581.html#post2658134

 

[Ph3n0m427]

Rockford P300-12

This is what I decided to install in mine, more than enough kick and it doesnt take up much space. It has a remote bass level which is great when I have the kiddos in with me. Quick install which is a plus, it has a built in Amp. Specs below


Rodckford P300-12

Subwoofer Features:

• 12" Punch Series Subwoofer
• Power Handling:
• Peak: 600 watts
• RMS: 300 watts
• Proprietary woofer optimized by Rockford Fosgate for this enclosure
• CEA-2031 Compliant
• Klippel Verified
• Proprietary spider venting/cooling technique
• StampCast basket with integrated spider venting
• High modulus Kevlar™ re-inforced paper-pulp cone
• Semi-flexible, PVC removable protective motor cover
• Multi-point high-temp/high-strength neck joint bonding technique
• Tall-profile VAST™ Santoprene™ surround for larger surface area
• Dual tear & fatigue resistant poly-cotton spider with woven tinsel leads
• Fatigue resistant and reduced strain "stitched on" flexible lead wire design
• Proprietary all metal, radially oriented compression input terminal assembly
• Optimized motor magnetics with extended pole and bumped vented backplate
• High temp 2" voice coil w/ spun-laced Nomex™ insulating re-inforcement collar
• Frequency response: 35-150 Hz

Amplifier Specifications:

• 300 Watt Class-D mono block
• CEA-2006 Compliant
• Remote bass level control included
• Intelligent auto turn on/off function
• Gain and bass boost control
• Built-in adjustable bass boost EQ
• Built-in 0°/180° phase switch
• Variable 50Hz to 200Hz @ 12dB/Octave Butterworth
• Removable Connector Power/Ground/Remote
• Thermal and over voltage protection
• High-efficiency, low current design
• Low-Level & High-Level Inputs
• Low-Level: 1 RCA Pair
• High-Level: Left/Right Summed Inputs
• 8 gauge power and ground wiring is recommended for installation. Contact us for information regarding a discount on select amplifier kits from our website when purchased together with this amplifier.
• Fuse Rating: 15A x 2

 

[Millerrh]

I have a single ported 10" woofer in my truck. The box is custom built but is temporary so I can listen to it in various placements. So far the best has been to place the woofer firing upwards. The bass is tighter and it images very well with the bass seeming as if the woofer is in the front. Aiming to the rear did not yield as good of result, nor did any other method.

Make sure you add an HDRLC bass knob to the XD300/1. A knockout is an ideal choice for location. Much needed. No LOC needed with this amp. You can use high level in with a cut RCA end. I would grab the L+R F door speaker wires behind the head unit. Plenty of room under either seat plus a lot more.

Yeah, I had the HDRLC on my old truck. Used it all the time. So I'll definitely get that. I want to make sure I understand everything I would need before I jump into this. Assuming I have an amp and sub and nothing else, what do I need?

• 8ga Power Wire with fuse
• RCA Cables - do I just cut off one end an splice into wires of HU?
• What do I use to do the splicing?
• Speaker wire from amp to speakers
• Velcro for mounting amp

What about using the wiring harnesses you can get on Amazon for $5? Does that allow you to somehow use them instead of splicing into factory wires? The part about tapping into the factory wiring is probably the one thing I'm most uncomfortable and unfamiliar with. Also, does it matter which wires you tap into? You mentioned using the fronts, VolksDragon mentioned using the rear. Not sure why it would matter unless they are wired differently somehow.

Also, I saw a thread about removing the head unit, but it was from an older model without nav (2011 I believe). Is it the same on those models as the newer ones? Just pull out the two vertical pillars to expose some screws and pull out? If anyone has a link to a good how-to on removing the head unit I'd appreciate it.

I think I just need to do a bit more digging on how to actually access and tap into the factory head unit the best way before feeling comfortable with this.

 

[JCDAD]

Yeah, I had the HDRLC on my old truck. Used it all the time. So I'll definitely get that. I want to make sure I understand everything I would need before I jump into this. Assuming I have an amp and sub and nothing else, what do I need?

• 8ga Power Wire with fuse
• RCA Cables - do I just cut off one end an splice into wires of HU?
• What do I use to do the splicing?
• Speaker wire from amp to speakers
• Velcro for mounting amp

What about using the wiring harnesses you can get on Amazon for $5? Does that allow you to somehow use them instead of splicing into factory wires? The part about tapping into the factory wiring is probably the one thing I'm most uncomfortable and unfamiliar with. Also, does it matter which wires you tap into? You mentioned using the fronts, VolksDragon mentioned using the rear. Not sure why it would matter unless they are wired differently somehow.

Also, I saw a thread about removing the head unit, but it was from an older model without nav (2011 I believe). Is it the same on those models as the newer ones? Just pull out the two vertical pillars to expose some screws and pull out? If anyone has a link to a good how-to on removing the head unit I'd appreciate it.

I think I just need to do a bit more digging on how to actually access and tap into the factory head unit the best way before feeling comfortable with this.

the reason why you use the front speaker wires is because when you fade to the front, the subs will still play. If you tapped into the rears, the sub will fade out when you fade to front.

I wouldn't use velcro to mount the amp. Just because it's easy doesn't mean it's good. You can mount it securely by taking an mdf or plywood board and using silicone to adhere it to the floor under the carpet. Lay the carpet back over it and screw the amp to the board. This way you won't have to screw through the chassis.

You can see videos on youtube on how to make speaker leads into RCA ends. Pretty simple. Run a long speaker lead to the amp and connect RCA there.

You need to verify the speaker leads and correct colors. Connections can be made by solder, t-tap, or strip, poke and wrap. Either one will be fine.

 

[Millerrh]

the reason why you use the front speaker wires is because when you fade to the front, the subs will still play. If you tapped into the rears, the sub will fade out when you fade to front.

I wouldn't use velcro to mount the amp. Just because it's easy doesn't mean it's good. You can mount it securely by taking an mdf or plywood board and using silicone to adhere it to the floor under the carpet. Lay the carpet back over it and screw the amp to the board. This way you won't have to screw through the chassis.

You can see videos on youtube on how to make speaker leads into RCA ends. Pretty simple. Run a long speaker lead to the amp and connect RCA there.

You need to verify the speaker leads and correct colors. Connections can be made by solder, t-tap, or strip, poke and wrap. Either one will be fine.

Thanks so much! That makes sense. I like the plywood on the floor idea as well. I found these Posi-Taps that seem like they would work really well for this application. Do you happen to know the wire gage of the front speaker wire? I think I am getting a better idea now of how to go about this.

 

[JCDAD]

Thanks so much! That makes sense. I like the plywood on the floor idea as well. I found these Posi-Taps that seem like they would work really well for this application. Do you happen to know the wire gage of the front speaker wire? I think I am getting a better idea now of how to go about this.

The reality is that you could connect the wires with bubble gum and it will work. In the end of the day it's a matter of good workmanship that keeps things free from failure. So let that be your moral guide.

Factory speaker wire is probably 18awg. Maybe 16awg.

 

[Millerrh]

The reality is that you could connect the wires with bubble gum and it will work. In the end of the day it's a matter of good workmanship that keeps things free from failure. So let that be your moral guide.

Factory speaker wire is probably 18awg. Maybe 16awg.

I will be using the high-level inputs into my amp. My amp accepts RCA inputs. Can I just cut off the ends of an RCA cable and splice into the head unit with those? Or will I need higher gauge speaker wire and create my own interconnect? None of the RCA cables I have seen advertise what gauge wire they use.

Also one amp wiring kit I am looking at comes with 16 AWG speaker wire. Will that be large enough to go from amp to sub? (300W RMS). Seems like 14 AWG is usually recommended, but 16 AWG should be OK from what I am reading online. And since it is free with the kit, figured I'd use it if it won't actually be a problem.

 

[JCDAD]

I will be using the high-level inputs into my amp. My amp accepts RCA inputs. Can I just cut off the ends of an RCA cable and splice into the head unit with those? Or will I need higher gauge speaker wire and create my own interconnect? None of the RCA cables I have seen advertise what gauge wire they use.

Also one amp wiring kit I am looking at comes with 16 AWG speaker wire. Will that be large enough to go from amp to sub? (300W RMS). Seems like 14 AWG is usually recommended, but 16 AWG should be OK from what I am reading online. And since it is free with the kit, figured I'd use it if it won't actually be a problem.

I personally would use 16awg and make my own. Make the connections at the amplifier.

As far as the sub goes you could use 22awg and it will work. But given the application 16awg is ok, However we use 12awg for subs. And most amp kits do have actual rated wire in them. Most are CCA and not truthful about gauge size. I have seen 4awg rated and 10awg was more actual. All jacket and no wire. So make sure you have a good quality kit.

 

[Millerrh]

I personally would use 16awg and make my own. Make the connections at the amplifier.

As far as the sub goes you could use 22awg and it will work. But given the application 16awg is ok, However we use 12awg for subs. And most amp kits do have actual rated wire in them. Most are CCA and not truthful about gauge size. I have seen 4awg rated and 10awg was more actual. All jacket and no wire. So make sure you have a good quality kit.

Check out these RCA to Speaker adapters Crutchfield sells:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KISL/Kicker-KISL.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XDCLR2S/JL-Audio-XD-CLRAIC2-SW.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFIF2SW/Rockford-Fosgate-RFiF2SW.html

It seems to me that these are targeted at splicing into factory speaker wires so you can use a regular RCA cable to hook up to an amp. Lots of great reviews on these. So it makes me think that using an RCA to transfer speaker, high level inputs is actually OK. Otherwise they wouldn't make these. Is my reasoning off? Or is the target application something else for these?

Because I think for me, the best bang for my buck is cutting an RCA and splicing it into the factory wires, which seems to me the same thing as what these are used for.

Of course it's probably not that hard or expensive to terminate an RCA cable onto a speaker wire. So maybe that really is my best option.

 

[Millerrh]

I got my amp wiring kit and it did not come with screws to attach the fuse holder to the sheet metal. What sort of screws are people using for this application? Thinking some sort of self-tapping sheet metal screw.

 

[spizike9]

I had this exact same problem. As someone who loves clean sounded stereo systems, I just couldn't deal with the non-jbl system anymore.

Just recently replaced the head unit, FOCAL speakers all around (including the IS1690TOY speakers) powered by a JL audio amp. I'm taking my car back to the shop in a week or so to have a custom box made to tuck into the rear panel.

Was hoping to use the Limited's JBL woofer enclosure, but nobody can tell me for sure if it will fit my SR5 Premium and that's not a risk I'm willing to take.

Do you by chance have a part number or a link to where I could buy the sub enclosure?

 

[alcomedic]

I decided to go thia route...

www.oemaudioplus.com

I priced out a few options and this worked for me. Won't get the thump of a 12" sub but space was important to me. On the preorder deal I think $1450 is a good deal for what you get. Sub, amp, Dsp, 6 new speakers + 1" tweeters up front. Plug and play install

 

[Millerrh]

Sound Quality/Possible Distortion issue

I installed my sub today thanks so much to the various people on this board posting their step by steps. I used info from ANTMAN, GEARJunkie, and VolksDragon to get everything hooked up and it seems like it works, but I am having some sound quality issues I need to troubleshoot.

I am using a JL XD300/1 amp with the JL Sealed 10" Powerwedge sub. I bought this 8 AWG amp wiring kit and Speaker-to-RCA adapter.

My amp will accept high-level inputs (100mV – 4V), so what I did was tap into the speaker wire with the RCA adapters and then plug the RCAs from the amp kit to those (essentially taking the high level speaker signal down the RCA). Everything works and I'm getting sound out of the sub, but I believe I am hearing distortion on loud bass hits or drum beats. There is absolutely no punch to it, just flubby low notes.

My initial thought was that maybe amplifying the high-level signal is clipping it and I needed to get a line level converter. So I measured the RCA plug at the amp to confirm that it wasn't over 4V. With a (-) line of a multimeter on the outer shell and the (+) line on the inner pin, I was getting -.039 V. That doesn't seem right to me. Am I measuring this from the wrong points? Or, does anyone know how high the voltage output is of the speaker wire (non-JBL)?

Also, I had one other setup before where the polarity of the signal was swapped inside the sub enclosure so the notes from the sub were out of phase with the bass notes from the rest of the car, causing the sub to have to work extra hard to get a reasonable amount of bass out there and the overlap between door speakers and sub seemed very dead. This almost sounds the same way to me. I might experiment with swapping the leads and see what happens.

I have no idea how these amplifiers that accept a high level input adjust for the high level without amplifying an already amplified signal which could produce distortion. But my input sensitivity/gain is somewhere in the middle of the dial to get a good balance of sound. So it's not like I can't adjust it low enough (i.e. input voltage is too high). It seems to be doing what it's supposed to be doing.

Any other steps you guys would take to make sure this is operating correctly?

EDIT: I just realized I was checking the voltage on the RCA as a DC voltage, but it should probably be AC, hence why it was so close to 0V. So it's possible the clipping is actually happening and the output is higher than 4V.

 

[Millerrh]

As a follow on to my last post, I measured the AC voltage at the RCAs. At a reasonable volume on a song heavy in bass guitar, I was getting max of ~1.7 V with a multimeter. It's possible that isn't the best representation of the signal though, it might be averaging some peaks in there. Possible that the peaks at loud volume are over 4 V, causing the clipping I was hearing. I am going to buy a LOC and swap the RCA adapters I put in there for the LOC.

I also opened up the sub box and everything is wired correctly. So unless I swapped +/- in the RCA tap (which I don't think I did) it should be in phase with the rest of the system.

Sure hope the LOC fixes the poor sound. For what it's worth I had this same amp in my Tundra and had that installed by a shop. They used a line output converter in that setup.