Suggested methods for lower control arm removal (siezed cams)

bergs

New member
I will be replacing both lower control arms due to frozen cams.

Before I grab a cutting wheel and go to town, I'd like to hear of some other methods of removal as both sides are frozen solid.

I have oxy/ace brazing and cutting torches but I'm not sure it suits this application.

Post suggestions, pls.

aaaannd GO!
 
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soak them in PB, impact wrench... then...
sawzall_large.jpg
 
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I used an air hammer and chiseled mine out. A 3/8" ratchet extension fits thru it and 1/2" socket shoulders on it and I put the air chisel to it and they worked right out for me.

 
soak them in PB, impact wrench... then...
sawzall_large.jpg

I had the same problem with mine and end up taking the 4runner to a shop to cut out the lower control arm bushings. This was after I tried unsuccessfully with soaking in PB, impact wrench, chisel and hammer, etc, ... I feel your pains.
 
Don't waste your time with pb blaster or any lubricant for that matter. PB blaster is an internet legend. You would think it is some sort of miracle product, but in reality it does very little when it comes to rust welded bolts. I really don't understand why on any forum you mention a stuck bolt and people automatically say "PB Blaster". If natures true lubricant, heat, can't break it lose you are pretty much out of luck and have to look for a mechanical means.
 
Don't waste your time with pb blaster or any lubricant for that matter. PB blaster is an internet legend. You would think it is some sort of miracle product, but in reality it does very little when it comes to rust welded bolts. I really don't understand why on any forum you mention a stuck bolt and people automatically say "PB Blaster". If natures true lubricant, heat, can't break it lose you are pretty much out of luck and have to look for a mechanical means.

And SeaFoam is a close 2nd...
 
I love PB Blast. When my LCA cams were frozen, I gave my sawzall blade a light coating of pb blast and it powered right through the bolts. (the saw just worked it in there really well I think....:shrug:)

On an honest note - I tried heat and a hammer. Didn't work so I ended up cutting them off. Be sure to source and have the new cam parts in hand as most dealers don't seem to have them on the shelf.
 
I need to tow more than 2 jetskis so I'll stick with my V8, thanks.

:D

Trade it in for another v8 :noidea:

Anyway, after you get the old bolts out, I suggest coating the new cam bolts with some anti-seize before installing them. I did this on my ~1yr old 5th gen and was surprised to see that there was already some rust forming in there! I barely drive out in snow either, I can't imagine how much faster it would rust out for you poor guys in the north :(
 
Sorry to let some of you down but I'll just keep it and fix it.

As far as anti-sieze is concerned, I have both graphite and copper based. Any thoughts on using either?
I have a very good synthetic grease made by Motul and would probably be using that on the hardware since I'm thinking the anti-sieze would be washed away rather quickly.
 
Sorry to let some of you down but I'll just keep it and fix it.

As far as anti-sieze is concerned, I have both graphite and copper based. Any thoughts on using either?
I have a very good synthetic grease made by Motul and would probably be using that on the hardware since I'm thinking the anti-sieze would be washed away rather quickly.

You'll probably get a lot of varied opinions on this but I used copper anti-seize. Not saying it's the best but it works for my application.

I still can't believe Toyota doesn't apply it from factory.
 
dont mean to thread jack but are the lca's the same as a tacoma 2nd gen?

also on my tacoma i used a slurry of lucas red n tacky and some anti seize on the cams
checked them almost 2 years later and smooth as butter
and truck was under for sandy and irean.....
 

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