It's 750 watt or good up to about 7 amps. Most electric chain saws draw 12 amps or more so you would be only half the required size at best. You really need to get the wattage or amps of the loads you will be using and compare them to capacity of the inverter. (amps x Volts = Watts) I think most would recommend a small gas chain saw and a 12volt fridge rather than trying to run these off an inverter. Save that for TV's and other electronics. My $.02.
get a used UPS, ditch the old battery(or keep it at home in case of a power outage) then connect the UPS battery terminals directly to your car battery. Cheapest way to go. just watch the wattage. I haven't tried it but I have a friend that does this.
Take a look at this one. 1500 watt, lots of good reviews, and can just handle a 12-amp chain saw or a small fridge. $99 but its twice the size of the Advance Auto. I put a smaller Cobra into my GF's Audi to run her curler thingy (don't ask..) and it works great. I would do this puppy with #2 AWG straight to the Optima and a 150 amp in-line fuse and away you go.
The UPS trick is something I've thought about. You would need a 1500VA or larger unit but if the right one was available at a good price, I'd go for it if I was trying to save $$ and my life weren't dependent on the thing.
If your saw is larger or smaller than 12-amp size should be reevaluated.
I'm liking the Cobra, thanks. I got the electric chainsaw for around the house but want to head out in the woods to grab some fire wood for the winter. I may just end up going gas. That was back when I lived on base and electicity was free.
Hehe, I knew that would amuse. Hey, it made her happy--and she makes me happy. Fortunately, I don't commute down the same road she does in the morning. I normally hate women that do crap like that when driving. She only does it when she's late, she says...and she does look good at work.
FWIW, I have an installed 1KW converter in my 97 that I have had basically since I bought the Truck. Note it only gets used rarely (thats quite a story in itself but well save that for another time : )
Anyways. I'm just snapped a couple quick pics with my camera phone (forgive the quality!) so you can see how it is mounted. It was put under the drivers seat and the huge battery cables were run under the carpet/floorboard up thru the firewall under the left side of the dashboard with the rest of the wires.
It was professionally installed by an auto electrical shop. The converter was purchased off of ebay and I dont actually recall the brand (you can see a bit of the logo in the pic but i was too lazy to look harder.)
Oh, and just for kicks I snapped one of the truck itself since this is my first post here anyways. I am the original owner. The vehicle has been meticulously maintained (I have every single service record/reciept ever done on this vehicle). The mileage service intervals are always done. I've had the rear axle bearings replaced as well as a transfer case bearing (did not fix the bearing noise it was done during troubleshooting) I added air-lift shocks and a ATF cooler when I bought it as I towed a race car around the southeast for over 2 years (about 3500 lbs) I never put on the recall rear axle bump stops as I had the air lift kit on it. (I just replaced the air-lift in fact)
I have changed the oil religiously (and rotated the tires) every 3k and I JUST rolled 250K on the vehicle and its still going strong. :bluejump: (though I am using a bit of oil now and it looks like I may have a gasket seal going as it smokes a bit when I shut it off.)