Supercharger prep

[sleepydad]

I would like to get things in line before I install it. be kind I have never installed a supercharger before and have never really run hooptie mods. I'm going to ask a couple of stupid questions, get ready now.

I will do a leak down and compression test just to make sure I'm good there before I put the engine under extra boost. I think it's good but you never know, I don't want to find out I have leaking head gasket after.

I would like to put a wide band in before I install the charger just so I can get a base line for how my truck is running now. I will also do a boost just so it's ready.

looks like this setup makes most hooptie heads happy?
AEM WIDEBAND UEGO AIR/FUEL RATIO GAUGE 30-4110

it's my understanding that you take off the Converter & pipe and install a new bung someplace around the stock o2

#5

so this is the best location to monitor air/fuel with yet another gauge.

are there any other things I should know? anybody that has a charger now and has had that ah-ha moment after?

thanks

 

[phattyduck]

I think you are going a bit overboard here. The supercharger was designed to run on completely stock engines and have a warranty. It is very safe!

If you aren't burning oil or coolant, a compression and leakdown test probably won't show you anything interesting. If compression is a bit low on one or more cylinders, it would take a full rebuild to fix the problem. If that's the case, you would/should probably just run it until it gets really bad first anyway.

A wideband won't tell you much on a stock motor. It will sit right around 14.7:1 under almost all circumstances other than coasting and cold start... Unless you are flooring it around town, I suppose. Even a normal acceleration onto the freeway should be basically stoichiometric unless you are really getting on it (>75% throttle and high-ish RPMs).

-Charlie

 

[TorqueOfTheDevil]

Before you jump in for AEM, check out PLX

PLX

They can be daisy chained to share a single gauge, (or have a Bluetooth module, which looks cool!

I've gone a bit overboard with a wideband for each bank, boost, Temperature (Oil and Trans, both on one unit), all feeding to one gauge for minimal clutter

 

[sleepydad]

I think you are going a bit overboard here. The supercharger was designed to run on completely stock engines and have a warranty. It is very safe!

If you aren't burning oil or coolant, a compression and leakdown test probably won't show you anything interesting. If compression is a bit low on one or more cylinders, it would take a full rebuild to fix the problem. If that's the case, you would/should probably just run it until it gets really bad first anyway.

A wideband won't tell you much on a stock motor. It will sit right around 14.7:1 under almost all circumstances other than coasting and cold start... Unless you are flooring it around town, I suppose. Even a normal acceleration onto the freeway should be basically stoichiometric unless you are really getting on it (>75% throttle and high-ish RPMs).

-Charlie

just slap it on and go, I can appreciate that sentiment.

I do have more of a long term plan... 7th injector, smaller pulleys.

I do analytics for a living and I measure things, that is what I do. so I always like to get a base reading on things. work in small increments and make sure I have a solid foundation before I take the next step.

but that being said I usually do go overboard on most things, I think it's my purpose in life.

 

[sleepydad]

Before you jump in for AEM, check out PLX

PLX

They can be daisy chained to share a single gauge, (or have a Bluetooth module, which looks cool!

I've gone a bit overboard with a wideband for each bank, boost, Temperature (Oil and Trans, both on one unit), all feeding to one gauge for minimal clutter

but you don't have one of the bluetooth modules? it does look cool and it makes a lot of sense. thanks for the info.

 

[Hepar]

Replace your gaskets while you're in there. And if you're belts are old, may as well do them too.

 

[1biker]

I do analytics for a living and I measure things, that is what I do.

I've been following your build and videos for awhile, and analytical is definitely an adjective I have used to describe your approach. Thought you might be a fellow engineer etc. Keep up the detailed, methodical approach to your truck.

but that being said I usually do go overboard on most things, I think it's my purpose in life.

You going "overboard" has inspired me, I'm sure I'm not the only one.

 

[phattyduck]

just slap it on and go, I can appreciate that sentiment.

I do have more of a long term plan... 7th injector, smaller pulleys.

I do analytics for a living and I measure things, that is what I do. so I always like to get a base reading on things. work in small increments and make sure I have a solid foundation before I take the next step.

but that being said I usually do go overboard on most things, I think it's my purpose in life.

Didn't mean to give you the 'slap it and go' suggestion. My point here is that Eaton/TRD already did the research on this one. It works 100% fine on a stock motor. If there was a problem with your motor, you would probably already know it...

The suggestion to re-seal the valve covers, etc. while you are installing is a good one. You are halfway to the valve cover gaskets when doing the supercharger install.

-Charlie

PS. I'm an engineer. Good engineering requires knowing what's important... good enough is best. Decide what is good enough, and any more is a waste. It sounds negative or 'cheaping out' but it isn't. Doing more than you need on the current project keeps you from getting to the next project...

 

[afg10000]

All I did was simple stuff. Make sure your air, fuel and ignition stuff is running good. Like a new OEM fuel filter, sea foam or fuel injector cleaner, air filter, plugs and wires if needed. Make sure you get the correct intake gasket for the super charger (the round one).

 

[sleepydad]

Didn't mean to give you the 'slap it and go' suggestion. My point here is that Eaton/TRD already did the research on this one. It works 100% fine on a stock motor. If there was a problem with your motor, you would probably already know it...

The suggestion to re-seal the valve covers, etc. while you are installing is a good one. You are halfway to the valve cover gaskets when doing the supercharger install.

-Charlie

PS. I'm an engineer. Good engineering requires knowing what's important... good enough is best. Decide what is good enough, and any more is a waste. It sounds negative or 'cheaping out' but it isn't. Doing more than you need on the current project keeps you from getting to the next project...

absolutely 100% agree and since I have never tried to tune things up I'm not aware of what is just noise and what is not. It's hard to know what is worth it or not. I'm not shooting at getting .05 seconds off my quarter mile so I'm probably tilting at windmills. Unfortunately taking the long road is sometimes my path toward real understanding.

I'm not a mechanical engineer but a software engineer and I have done a lot RnD over the last 25 years. I would always go much further and perfect things but we usually get cut short for what I would call the "happy path" or the good old 80/20 rule. I was not there when TRD did their RnD but I will bet the pareto curve applies and reading gadgets website and others shows TRD did a good job but for sure but cut the fuel mods part short.

thanks for all the info you put on the forum, your drive train swap is good stuff.

 

[sleepydad]

All I did was simple stuff. Make sure your air, fuel and ignition stuff is running good. Like a new OEM fuel filter, sea foam or fuel injector cleaner, air filter, plugs and wires if needed. Make sure you get the correct intake gasket for the super charger (the round one).

thanks that reminds me I need to replace the fuel filter, I have no idea if it's the original one and that should be done.

I did valve covers last summer with plugs and wires/coil packs... .5 moons all that good stuff so I think I'm good there.

 

[Hepar]

All I did was simple stuff. Make sure your air, fuel and ignition stuff is running good. Like a new OEM fuel filter, sea foam or fuel injector cleaner, air filter, plugs and wires if needed. Make sure you get the correct intake gasket for the super charger (the round one).

thanks that reminds me I need to replace the fuel filter, I have no idea if it's the original one and that should be done.

I did valve covers last summer with plugs and wires/coil packs... .5 moons all that good stuff so I think I'm good there.

Just to double-check and clear up any possible confusion. He's referring to the throttle body gasket which the stock gasket is in a bit of a D-shape and restricts a bit of air when under boost. So, they make a few gaskets that eliminate the restrictive portion (are an O-shape) and allow better airflow.

Here's one from TRDParts4U.com:

https://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-8056

I'm using this teflon one from LCE Performance

https://www.lceperformance.com/Teflon-Heat-Isolation-Gasket-5VZ-Throttle-Body-p/1032085.htm

It's a bit thicker than the standard gasket, so if you use it you will have to adjust your throttle cable.

 

[gamefreakgc]

just slap it on and go, I can appreciate that sentiment.

I do have more of a long term plan... 7th injector, smaller pulleys.

I do analytics for a living and I measure things, that is what I do. so I always like to get a base reading on things. work in small increments and make sure I have a solid foundation before I take the next step.

but that being said I usually do go overboard on most things, I think it's my purpose in life.

If you really do want to go the smaller pulley route plus extra fuel, then a wideband is necessary. If you decide not to go that route, that wideband is going to be 100% useless other than showing a fancy 14.7 number all the time.

I think that's what the others are trying to say. Putting in a wideband pre-supercharger is not going to yield much useful information though. The stock computer is just going to keep it stoich all the time. To answer your question though, anything upstream of the cat will work just fine, the #5 spot you mentioned is the easiest to access.

 

[phattyduck]

If you decide not to go that route, that wideband is going to be 100% useless other than showing a fancy 14.7 number all the time.

Let's be honest - it will go between 14.6 and 14.8. :behindsofa:

-Charlie

 

[TorqueOfTheDevil]

but you don't have one of the bluetooth modules? it does look cool and it makes a lot of sense. thanks for the info.

No I didn't bother with that.. I looked at the App, but it appears to only display wideband and boost (at the moment).

It might be a move I do in the future if they improve the app. I don't really like gauges and stuff and want to keep my interior looking stock.

 

[psraff]

Before you jump in for AEM, check out PLX

PLX

They can be daisy chained to share a single gauge, (or have a Bluetooth module, which looks cool!

I've gone a bit overboard with a wideband for each bank, boost, Temperature (Oil and Trans, both on one unit), all feeding to one gauge for minimal clutter

Another option for duel gauges is VEI System D1 Gauges. You can get them up for almost any configurations. If it's not on the list, you can call the and talk to them.
D1-Series Gauges - VEI Systems

I've had one for several years and so far it's worked flawless (mine is for tranny temps though).