Suspension suggestions

[patkelly4370]

I'm planning for the future.
2017 SR5. 22,000 miles on it. Bought it used from a Toyota dealer 2 months ago.
It is stock with the exception of:
Nfab nerf bars/step,
285/70R17 tires on Mickey Thompson wheels,
1½" leveling spacer on top of the strut.
I live in (very) rural Arizona. The majority of our roads vary from washboard dirt to undeveloped. All have washes crossing them, some extremely large.
My drive to work (1-2 times per week) is one mile of washboard, cross 2 washes. Then ¾ mile of paved County road (2 more washes), to 18 miles of State highway (65 mph).
I bought the T4R for commute to work and exploring trails on my days off. Also, temperatures here range from 20's for a week or so in winter to over 100 for 6 months, a month over 120.
I'm not looking to conquer obstacles, trying to see how tough the Toyota is. I'm not pre-running open desert. Just exploring, slowly, but willing to 'push it a bit'.
I will be going full steel skids. SSO bumper, add the 'wings' if/when I damage the front corners. Moving the spare to a receiver carrier. Replace the nerfs for sliders if needed.
So what do you suggest? I'm thinking remote reservoir shock because of the roads and ambient heat, especially on play days at the very least.
Here's a video of my street and a cross street. Very typical if not one of the nicer spots. There are many that are much less maintained.
https://youtu.be/8FX61FD_3zw

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[jdm-v35]

If the roads are that easy I would just get bilstein 5100's wwith fronts adjusted higher and some rear spacers/springs.

Adding the SSO bumper and skids are also not a worthwhile investment for you imo as those roads arent bad at all. They will probably barely even get dirty. It would just be unnecessary weight that will hurt your gas mileage for no reason.

I have 5100's with OME springs and may upgrade later, but they do fine for now. When I go camping, some roads are like that and maybe a little more worn down and I can go 50-60mph with no issue.

 

[jeroweezy]

eibach pro truck lift

 

[spartacus]

Terrain like that begs to be driven at a fast pace. If you can go'with kings with remote reservoirs and a long travel kit. It's pricey like a good vacation but worth it.

 

[Daikon]

I'm planning for the future.
2017 SR5. 22,000 miles on it. Bought it used from a Toyota dealer 2 months ago.
It is stock with the exception of:
Nfab nerf bars/step,
285/70R17 tires on Mickey Thompson wheels,
1½" leveling spacer on top of the strut.
I live in (very) rural Arizona. The majority of our roads vary from washboard dirt to undeveloped. All have washes crossing them, some extremely large.
My drive to work (1-2 times per week) is one mile of washboard, cross 2 washes. Then ¾ mile of paved County road (2 more washes), to 18 miles of State highway (65 mph).
I bought the T4R for commute to work and exploring trails on my days off. Also, temperatures here range from 20's for a week or so in winter to over 100 for 6 months, a month over 120.
I'm not looking to conquer obstacles, trying to see how tough the Toyota is. I'm not pre-running open desert. Just exploring, slowly, but willing to 'push it a bit'.
I will be going full steel skids. SSO bumper, add the 'wings' if/when I damage the front corners. Moving the spare to a receiver carrier. Replace the nerfs for sliders if needed.
So what do you suggest? I'm thinking remote reservoir shock because of the roads and ambient heat, especially on play days at the very least.
Here's a video of my street and a cross street. Very typical if not one of the nicer spots. There are many that are much less maintained.
https://youtu.be/8FX61FD_3zw

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Check out Bilstein 6112/5160. The front has a 60mm shock body. rear is standard (i think) w/ a remote resi.

I think this set up would be good w/o having to commit to a race coilover/ shock set up at 1/3 of the price.

 

[patkelly4370]

Terrain like that begs to be driven at a fast pace. If you can go'with kings with remote reservoirs and a long travel kit. It's pricey like a good vacation but worth it.

So if I'm understanding correctly, most 4runner lift kits do not yield more travel?

Mine currently has a 1½" spacer on the front. So if the factory suspension travel up front is, for example, 8 inches. And, again for example, it has 4" compression & 4" droop. I now have 5½" compression & 2½" droop?

A "long travel" coilover will still have 8" of travel?

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[propain]

OME BP51's. Due to the weight in the front.
It will give you 2.5-3" lift and are adjustable.
If you go off-road in really Rocky terrain then go with aluminum skids from RCI. If you don't go off-road don't get skids. Those flat gravel roads don't call for skids.

KINGS wont give you a big lift and will cost more $ than the OME if you go long travel. Waste of $ and a b1tch to maintain.

You will need new aftermarket upper control arms if you don't have them already. Camburg balljoint UCA, JBA UCA are fine. Get rid of the Nerf's and get C4 Fabrication rock sliders. An ARB Safari Snorkel will help the truck breathe in the dusty hot climate, and looks kool too. Add some Baja design, ARB, or rigid industries lighting and you're all set.

Wouldn't hurt to add HID lights for your headlights, this will light up the road compared to stock headlights.

 

[spartacus]

So if I'm understanding correctly, most 4runner lift kits do not yield more travel?

Mine currently has a 1½" spacer on the front. So if the factory suspension travel up front is, for example, 8 inches. And, again for example, it has 4" compression & 4" droop. I now have 5½" compression & 2½" droop?

A "long travel" coilover will still have 8" of travel?

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you are correct with the lift the tire travels in the same arc. A long travel will give you more travel because it will have an extended travel shock, longer lower and upper control arms and deleting the sway bar' also a wider stance in the front. The shocks also dont fade and dessipate heat a lot better.

 

[MAST4R]

So if I'm understanding correctly, most 4runner lift kits do not yield more travel?

Mine currently has a 1½" spacer on the front. So if the factory suspension travel up front is, for example, 8 inches. And, again for example, it has 4" compression & 4" droop. I now have 5½" compression & 2½" droop?

A "long travel" coilover will still have 8" of travel?

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No need to go crazy. And not everyone who replied understands AZ terrain.

I have 6112s with 650lb springs (had 600lb but found them too soft) and I have Icon 2.0 shocks in the rear. You don't need remote reservoirs. You do NOT want those spacers. Throw them away. You can break things with those at speed. The 6112 DO provide extra 0.75" of front wheel travel without aftermarket UCAs (a bit less with 650lb springs). I am within 0.5" of stock down-travel with 1.25" front lift.

I can drive 100 miles on a quick pace through easy 4wd desert trails, rough dirt roads that can make you fly, and smooth dirt roads with no issues in terms of fading performance or comfort. Of course, you can get the shocks hot just driving up to Crown King in summer on the main road; it is AZ after all. That's not the same as shock fade.

I needed the 650lb springs because while 600 provided superb comfort on road with 6112s, only the 650lb can handle serious hits. And as we both know, you will hit bumps and dips in AZ; only people who drive slowly all the time or have not driven through the desert much can say otherwise. It is utterly impossible to always tell a 'bad' one from a 'good' one.

I have 1.25"/1.00" lift and have no issues on Broken Arrow or Backaway to Crown King (but I am also armored) or any other low-end difficult AZ trail. In fact, I first drove those two fully stock (but armored). I am not going to run Lower Terminator ever, let alone on a DD. All Sedona trails can be done stock. The really harder desert trails are often crazy; I have walked Die Hard. Fantastic walk!

Also, I run 265 70 17 tires and have no issues. But of course 285 will be better offroad. I run SL Wildpeaks because we do lots of interstate but if you are primarily in the desert, I would get LT-C KO2s or even LTD KO2s or an LTC MT with 3 ply sidewall like the new Destination MT 2. The Wildpeaks are about the only SL I would trust on a trail like Pucker Ridge (the last we did, very exposed and narrow, Colorado style in spots).

Anyway, the point is that 6112s with 650 springs and LOW lift is perfect for the front with no need for maintenance. For the rear, the Icon 2.0 is a bit stiff until pushed hard but by no means bad. The same will be true of the Fox 2.0. Maybe try the Eibach rear shocks if you are usually light (as we are on day trips) and if you manage to get them fade, then upgrade. The Eibach are better than 5100 because they simulate progressive feel at low speeds. Eibach, Bilstein, and Dobinsons all sell 1-1.5" rear springs.

 

[SpeedyKevin]

Sounds like something simple like a dobs or eibach would for you. No need for a res 2.5 set up imho. If the Australians can use the dobs or fulcrums in their heat, then you should be fine.

 

[patkelly4370]

Thanks for the replies. This helps in forming a plan.
This is Carrizo Dr, two streets over, about a mile from my house. This is a typical street where I live and why i feel compelled to fortify my suspension.

YouTube

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[SpeedyKevin]

Thanks for the replies. This helps in forming a plan.
This is Carrizo Dr, two streets over, about a mile from my house. This is a typical street where I live and why i feel compelled to fortify my suspension.

YouTube

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Yea i think youd be fine with tier 2 / 3 stuff (MAST4R scale). Check out 4wd action and see what they are doing on that type of gear

 

[MAST4R]

Thanks for the replies. This helps in forming a plan.
This is Carrizo Dr, two streets over, about a mile from my house. This is a typical street where I live and why i feel compelled to fortify my suspension.

YouTube

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The stock suspension will not break down though the spacers can make it happen. But, yes, slow and uncomfortable.

If you want max function at lowest cost I would probably go Dobinsons. They have springs that work extremely well and the twin tubes should outlast the monotubes. They are also better protected from the tens of thousands of fist sized rocks we drive over.

Ultimately, there are two options to prevent desert bottoming out:

--the better is the $$$ great shocks with softer springs setups like all the 2.5 brand name setups
--the worse is the $ but very effective setups with less capable shocks and stiffer springs.

Mine drives exceptionally well on road as well, it is on an altogether different level from stock. Way more stable. It is actually enjoyable to drive on road now.

Keep your lift under 1.5" max to preserve wheel travel. It is critical, including for stability in off-camber situations.

 

[delloro]

eibach pro truck lift

Just put mine on today. Highly recommend.

 

[patkelly4370]

I like the stance of the truck. The spacer leveled it correctly to my eye.
The 285's also seem correct. They used to rub the inner fender ever so slightly. That has been addressed and is no longer an issue.
I like functional components. Though there is the benefit of a bit more ground clearance up front, I consider the spacer cosmetic. I would prefer that 1½" to be functional.
Upon reflection, I don't think I need to go higher. My "go fast" days are behind me. Now it's go slow, don't raise dust, what did I miss last time.
Quality shocks with soft springs should help keep my tires planted as I shuffle along. E-locker in back + Atrac should give me 3 wheel drive (2 back, 1 front tire) to maintain the shuffle.
Armor the underside. Replace the Nfab nerfs with sliders. Replace plastic bumpers with metal if/when damage occurs.
A basic outline, subject to change.

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[honda250xtitan]

x2 on bilstein 6112 with whatever 2" diameter rear shock you like the stickers most (i like fox branding lol). With wheelers rear springs to keep the back end from bottoming out in any minor dips/g outs...been a killer setup for the az stuff we do

 

[patkelly4370]

x2 on bilstein 6112 with whatever 2" diameter rear shock you like the stickers most (i like fox branding lol). With wheelers rear springs to keep the back end from bottoming out in any minor dips/g outs...been a killer setup for the az stuff we do

Whatever I get it will probably get sprayed flat black.
I don't like bling.

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[patkelly4370]

Something like this?
Bilstein 6112/5160 5th Gen 4Runner lift kit - YotaMafia

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[gazant4r]

ome bp 51

Not a lot of people have done an OME kit on the 4runner. I haven't seen a lot of reviews so i wanted to be the ginny pig on the Drive ability with it.

First mention, the reason I went with OME is because they have something called a Bypass Valve, which is basically HIGH SPEED VALVING. This is very important if you like to go over bumps and feel comfortable at high way speeds.

The suspension is very solid and is 0.5" thicker than the competition. I have had it for approx 10k miles without any issues at all and love the Drive ability.

May cost more but it is definitely worth it. If you just want something to level and not pay that much go with the 5100's they will do the job.

 

[MAST4R]

I like the stance of the truck. The spacer leveled it correctly to my eye.
The 285's also seem correct. They used to rub the inner fender ever so slightly. That has been addressed and is no longer an issue.
I like functional components. Though there is the benefit of a bit more ground clearance up front, I consider the spacer cosmetic. I would prefer that 1½" to be functional.
Upon reflection, I don't think I need to go higher. My "go fast" days are behind me. Now it's go slow, don't raise dust, what did I miss last time.
Quality shocks with soft springs should help keep my tires planted as I shuffle along. E-locker in back + Atrac should give me 3 wheel drive (2 back, 1 front tire) to maintain the shuffle.
Armor the underside. Replace the Nfab nerfs with sliders. Replace plastic bumpers with metal if/when damage occurs.
A basic outline, subject to change.

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I don't think that you will necessarily have issues with the spacers but since you want a better suspension, you can throw them away in the process. The pictures I have seen of shocks broken due to overextension etc are normally 3" lifts.

I don't race either but you can bottom out the stock suspension at 15 mph easily on many easy desert trails and even on rough dirt roads at 20 mph.

The cheapest way to get good shocks with soft springs is to buy the 4 Eibach shocks and use them with the stock springs with 1.5" front lift and no rear lift (but when loaded, your nose will get really high) or with the 1" Eibach rear spring so you can load it without issues. This is super cost effective. If you still need more performance, then consider adding a Dobinsons spring in the front.

Mind you, the stock springs are not good. They may be soft, but I had Dobinsons front and Eibach rear springs on stock shocks for 7,000 miles and offroad it was MUCH, much better. It was a temporary thing and it helped me better understand what happens when a component is changed individually. The 1" Eibach rear spring made for a more comfortable ride despite the 12% increase in spring rate over stock. Changing the springs alone eliminated bottoming out but of course it posed two issues 1/how long would stock shocks last with aftermarket raised springs and 2/control when driving a bit faster over rougher terrain. The stock shocks are not strong enough to control aftermarket springs off road except at low speeds.