Suspension upgrade to get the smoothest ride?

raincoyote

raincoyote

New member
Have done a lot of research looking around the forum about getting a smoother ride in the 3rd gen by swapping out suspension. I know my sway bar bushings are about due for replacing, and I'm noticing a lot of bumps feel much bigger than they should and it can't all be down to my 265/70R17s.

Seems like the two camps are between the Tokicos and the Bilstein 5100s. This is not an offroad rig. Forest service roads are the worst it's ever going to see so we're going for what's the cushiest, Rolls-Royce-iest ride I can squeeze out of this thing?
 
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Do you use your 4Runner for camping at all? Will it ever see heavier weight/more cargo or not really? Tokicos can be kind of stiff without any additional weight as they're valved for heavier Land Cruisers. I like mine, but I have a steel bumper and swing out with a spare 33" tire, and some might say it rides too stiff still.
Whatever you do, I'd veer away from Old Man Emu-- they're not on your list but I'll mention it just in case. Their shocks did not last over a year and a half on my 4Runner, and I don't beat it up that badly.
 
Smooth ride? Stick OEM. Everything else is stiffer. With the exception of the front shocks, OEM is not that much more expensive.
 
Kanoe said:
Smooth ride? Stick OEM. Everything else is stiffer. With the exception of the front shocks, OEM is not that much more expensive.
Click to expand...
Seconded.

Also make sure the ride height front and rear is around 20" (from hub center to fender lip) - if it is lower, you'll want to replace the springs to get it up around that high to keep you off the bump stops on bigger suspension hits (potholes, speed bumps, etc.).

-Charlie
 
Agree tokicos or bilstein hd4600 a little stiffer. Also Driving on Forest service roads will be way better if you air down to 18-20 psi also.
 
Going with OEMs and getting the sway bar links replaced as they're cracking. Hopefully this makes a difference, after driving it for a week it's noticeable just how bad it is.
 
So I was going over the quote from the regional tire/suspension shop and price checking online. Going with straight KYB OEM rec'd replacements, but they quoted me at $137 per KG9025 Gas-a-Just Strut, which is about $40 of margin vs. directly buying them online so I'm taking a moment to suss this out more.



Generally, if I just want to do the LBJs and all the suspension components that matter. I've been looking through posts and diagrams but can't work it exactly out. Here's what I'm thinking I should just replace in one big go:



  • LBJs
  • Struts
  • Shocks
  • Coils front and back
  • Sway bar linkage
  • Sway bar bushings
  • Bump stops?



Am I missing something? This one has thrown me through a loop and I'm pressing pause until I can figure it out for myself.
 
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raincoyote said:
So I was going over the quote from the regional tire/suspension shop and price checking online. Going with straight KYB OEM rec'd replacements, but they quoted me at $137 per KG9025 Gas-a-Just Strut, which is about $40 of margin vs. directly buying them online so I'm taking a moment to suss this out more.



Generally, if I just want to do the LBJs and all the suspension components that matter. I've been looking through posts and diagrams but can't work it exactly out. Here's what I'm thinking I should just replace in one big go:



  • LBJs
  • Struts
  • Shocks
  • Coils front and back
  • Sway bar linkage
  • Sway bar bushings
  • Bump stops?



Am I missing something? This one has thrown me through a loop and I'm pressing pause until I can figure it out for myself.
Click to expand...

Well, it would depend about the various bushings on their condition.

I know two things.

1/ The aftermarket KYB on some models like our Subaru are stiffer than the OEM version of the same KYB shocks

2/ I failed to replace the springs on our 2008 Tribeca and have been paying the price since. Because they sag more than 0.5" on a vehicle with very little front travel, the result is a pretty nasty ride. It takes road hits in stride, but the ride quality is bad.

So, as mentioned earlier, it pays off to restore factory geometry even if it has been distorted by age rather than mods. And see if aftermarket KYBs are tuned the same as OEM.
 
When I overhauled my suspension, I replaced pretty much every bushing, if I didn't end up upgrading to aftermarket parts. My rig hadd 300k + on original everything.

Since you will have everything apart, I would include front and rear lower control arm bushings. Front and rear upper control arm bushings. Front upper ball joints.

Optional but recommended. I rebuilt my CV's because all my boots were torn. Steering rack bushings. Unless your current bump stops are rotted, I don't see a need to change them really, but they are very simple to change. I upgraded mine because it was needed due to my lift. Good luck.
 
The first thing I did with mine was new ball joints bushings links tie rods 99 springs and KYBs.
It’s not much for flex but it rides like a sedan.

I’m a 1/4” higher in the back empty. I’m going to swap out the rear with Dobinsons and Bilsteins so I can run with more weight without squat.


K5U6IKT.jpg
 
ch1966 said:
The first thing I did with mine was new ball joints bushings links tie rods 99 springs and KYBs.
It’s not much for flex but it rides like a sedan.

I’m a 1/4” higher in the back empty. I’m going to swap out the rear with Dobinsons and Bilsteins so I can run with more weight without squat.


K5U6IKT.jpg
Click to expand...

What coil springs did you go with? OEM? They're expensive as hell. Looking at Rock Auto and thinking about these AC Delco ones but wondering if I'm being a cheap bastard. The sedan ride is what I want.
[MENTION=306890]MAST4R[/MENTION] and [MENTION=282578]RotaryDreamz[/MENTION] I'd be curious about your input on this too.
 
Thanks but I have no clue. The Tribeca is still on the same old springs. Not doing all the work for the good old grocery getter. Subaru springs are not pricey which is partly why I am regretting my decision now.

As for the 4R, see what the OEM rates are, I am sure it has to be posted around here, and go from there. But I doubt you will find softer than OEM specialty spring for a regular shock. As for aftermarket regular springs, I wonder if you can figure out the spring rates.

At the end, it will all come down to original geometry, springs not stiffer than stock, and same for shocks. So whatever springs and shocks are closest to stock should do as far as comfort goes.
 
raincoyote said:
What coil springs did you go with? OEM? They're expensive as hell. Looking at Rock Auto and thinking about these AC Delco ones but wondering if I'm being a cheap bastard. The sedan ride is what I want.

[MENTION=306890]MAST4R[/MENTION] and [MENTION=282578]RotaryDreamz[/MENTION] I'd be curious about your input on this too.
Click to expand...

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I went oem with ball joints bushings and tie rods.
 
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I would go with OEM as stated above if you want that Sedan ride feeling. I have no idea what the ride would feel like to be honest. Haha. It was crappy when I bought the truck. But I can tell you once I changed all my suspension components, i felt the difference. My setup is meant for weight, and i even installed airbags to compensate for more weight or if im towing, but its nowhere near a "sedan" feel.
 
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