Swapping in a new-to-me engine.
- Thread starter davemw
- Start date
Guess what...
The link and price there is only for the Y pipe. Got it in the mail today. I'm going to call tomorrow and see if i can return it.
Horrible product descriptions.
DGO-SR5
New member
I am pretty sure I saw the old engine on Craigslist when I was looking for superchargers. Glad to see this is coming along! Seems like a pretty good project and should run strong and reliable when done. Too bad on the headers, I actually saw that issue on another thread the other day. I had JBA's on my supercharged Tacoma and they were great! I think Downey and OBX make options as well.
Sure is! I called today and will be sending it back on Monday. I don't think I have enough time to get the OBX headers shipped before I start the swap.
Edit, I called and ordered the OBX headers today if all the stars align correctly, they will arrive on Friday.
OBX 99-02 TOYOTA 4RUNNER V6 SS HEADER
Last edited:
RussToy
New member
Congratulations on finding a set of headers...awesome find!!! Hey, thanks for the link to their web site, because I have never heard of these guys before. You'll have to let us know how they work...(eg., how they fit, easy of installment, overall quality, etc...)
I hope all the stars and moons line up for a Friday arrival...lol!! Better yet, good luck on an easy swap...hope all goes well for you!
I hope all the stars and moons line up for a Friday arrival...lol!! Better yet, good luck on an easy swap...hope all goes well for you!
OK, it was a friggen long weekend working on this thing and I'm still having problems. Here's the high and low points of the weekend.
-Separating the engine from the trans was a *****, it took us 2 hours of kicking, wiggling, jacking and cussing to get it apart. No magic method here.
- Changing the oil in the super charger was super easy with it off.
- The headers were a pain to get on the block and get the y pipe married to them. Typical aftermarket - kinda fits. Then we found out that my truck is CA exempt and the downtube to the cat is different then what I was shipped. We spent about 4 hours making a custom flange/exhaust to get that together.
-Putting the engine back in and marrying it to the transmission was a ***** as well, 2 hours of kicking and cussing to make that happen.
-The URD kit is a pain to install. The injector install is a cinch but soldering all the connections to the main wiring harness was not fun and not practical IMO. I would have paid 100.00 more for a plug adapter to piggy back the stock plug. Soldering all the connections in means that pulling the wiring harness through the firewall and leaving it on the engine to remove it (I hope I never have to do this again) is no longer possible.
When it finally came time to fire the truck it wouldn't start. just crank and crank, no fuel, no spark. We spent about 4 hours checking connections, checking the new fuel pump, hooked the OBDII scanner up and nothing then something. Then nothing. We Found a faulty ground, fixed that. Got a cam position sensor code, replaced the cam position sensor. Then got a P1300 code, traced that to the igniter through google/forum posts. Found that that plug was loose. Clicked it in and started the ****er! No codes all good. So I thought.
Everything looks good, no leaks. I shut the truck off and try to restart it. It just keept cranking. Then we pulled the EFI relay and unhooked the battery based on a post I had seen on some forum. Hooked it back up and it sputtered and started. Turned it off and started it back up. It seemed ok. We took it for a ride and it runs really well except for a little hesitation that I believe is due to a vacuum line being hooked up wrong. I drove the truck an hour to get it home last night, shut it of and tried to restart it. It's now just cranking and not starting. I had to work today so now I'm scouring the interwebz for answers.
To sum it up, my problem is as follows. The truck won't start. It cranks/turns over but doesn't fire.
Tonight I will recheck my grounds.
Possibly replace the EFI relay.
Check wiring harness connections
Figure out vacuum lines.
I can't say for sure if it's getting fuel or spark right now. I'm pretty sure this is an electrical issue.
For those wondering, total swap time took about 32 hours over 3 days with 2 guys.
In hind sight I should have swapped the engine in, got it running then put in the URD kit.
What would be very helpful is if I could find a photo of the drivers side inner wheel well where all those vacuum lines converge along with a photo of the top back of the engine where they come around to the throttle body. It's ok if they don't have a supercharger, I just need to see stock for reference.
Thanks
-Separating the engine from the trans was a *****, it took us 2 hours of kicking, wiggling, jacking and cussing to get it apart. No magic method here.
- Changing the oil in the super charger was super easy with it off.
- The headers were a pain to get on the block and get the y pipe married to them. Typical aftermarket - kinda fits. Then we found out that my truck is CA exempt and the downtube to the cat is different then what I was shipped. We spent about 4 hours making a custom flange/exhaust to get that together.
-Putting the engine back in and marrying it to the transmission was a ***** as well, 2 hours of kicking and cussing to make that happen.
-The URD kit is a pain to install. The injector install is a cinch but soldering all the connections to the main wiring harness was not fun and not practical IMO. I would have paid 100.00 more for a plug adapter to piggy back the stock plug. Soldering all the connections in means that pulling the wiring harness through the firewall and leaving it on the engine to remove it (I hope I never have to do this again) is no longer possible.
When it finally came time to fire the truck it wouldn't start. just crank and crank, no fuel, no spark. We spent about 4 hours checking connections, checking the new fuel pump, hooked the OBDII scanner up and nothing then something. Then nothing. We Found a faulty ground, fixed that. Got a cam position sensor code, replaced the cam position sensor. Then got a P1300 code, traced that to the igniter through google/forum posts. Found that that plug was loose. Clicked it in and started the ****er! No codes all good. So I thought.
Everything looks good, no leaks. I shut the truck off and try to restart it. It just keept cranking. Then we pulled the EFI relay and unhooked the battery based on a post I had seen on some forum. Hooked it back up and it sputtered and started. Turned it off and started it back up. It seemed ok. We took it for a ride and it runs really well except for a little hesitation that I believe is due to a vacuum line being hooked up wrong. I drove the truck an hour to get it home last night, shut it of and tried to restart it. It's now just cranking and not starting. I had to work today so now I'm scouring the interwebz for answers.
To sum it up, my problem is as follows. The truck won't start. It cranks/turns over but doesn't fire.
Tonight I will recheck my grounds.
Possibly replace the EFI relay.
Check wiring harness connections
Figure out vacuum lines.
I can't say for sure if it's getting fuel or spark right now. I'm pretty sure this is an electrical issue.
For those wondering, total swap time took about 32 hours over 3 days with 2 guys.
In hind sight I should have swapped the engine in, got it running then put in the URD kit.
What would be very helpful is if I could find a photo of the drivers side inner wheel well where all those vacuum lines converge along with a photo of the top back of the engine where they come around to the throttle body. It's ok if they don't have a supercharger, I just need to see stock for reference.
Thanks
So last night I verified all my vacuum lines are good and in the right places. Tried starting the truck and it fired up. shut it off and tried again with no luck. BUT, I finally got a CEL.
P0335 Camshaft Position Sensor.
I'm going to check it tonight and see what's going on. I'm hoping the plug was not secured well or something of that sort. They are not cheap.
P0335 Camshaft Position Sensor.
I'm going to check it tonight and see what's going on. I'm hoping the plug was not secured well or something of that sort. They are not cheap.
Last Night I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and the truck seemed to be worse. I rechecked all my grounds then finally broke down and called URD. I talked to Gadget over there and his first question was: "How were the connections made on the PCU?".
My buddy who is usually really good with this sort of stuff had wired in the PCU for me. Turns out some of the connections he made were not splices, they were taps. Meaning instead of the PCU intercepting the signal, it was simply adding to the stock signal and effing everything up. After a few cuts and some electrical tape the truck fired right up.
The truck is running excellent now.
My buddy who is usually really good with this sort of stuff had wired in the PCU for me. Turns out some of the connections he made were not splices, they were taps. Meaning instead of the PCU intercepting the signal, it was simply adding to the stock signal and effing everything up. After a few cuts and some electrical tape the truck fired right up.
The truck is running excellent now.
Also, Baker never made it up to help. :blah:
