Sway Bar bushings
- Thread starter Mtneer001
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zopperman
Moderator
Is he high?
Check out the sway bar bushing upgrade thread. They will be 20 bucks/sway bar and 15 mins of your time. 5 mins with an impact wrench
Hapeacres
New member
When I bought my used 4runner the sway bar bushings were bad and I had them replaced at a Toyota specialty shop since they were doing the timing belt and water pump. The shop charged me 15.09 each for the OEM bushings and 45.00 labor. This was from a Toyota service shop so you should definetely not pay any more than 75.00. The bushings do go bad so I am not surprised, it made a big difference in handling afterwards.
JustSomeName
New member
wheelersoffroad.com sells them with no sales tax either!
if you're gonna replace them, might as well replace both front and back, they're about thirty bucks for both front set and rear set and about an hour of your time. and an hour is a very generous estimation, if you know what you're doing and do it quick, it could get done in half an hour, both front and rear
front set: Energy Suspension: Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 29mm
rear set: Energy Suspension: Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 17mm
if you're gonna replace them, might as well replace both front and back, they're about thirty bucks for both front set and rear set and about an hour of your time. and an hour is a very generous estimation, if you know what you're doing and do it quick, it could get done in half an hour, both front and rear
front set: Energy Suspension: Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 29mm
rear set: Energy Suspension: Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 17mm
NuclearN8
New member
as zopperman eluded to... all you need to know about sway bar bushings are in this thread. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/34115-swaybar-bushing-upgrade.html
measure twice, order once from summit, jegs or your vendor of choice... you can easily do this for under $50 and get a better ride/ product on your 4R than than crappy OEM rubber ones.
while you're at it may want to consider doing the rear end link mod as well
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...sh-extended-rear-sway-bar-links-write-up.html
or post #45 has a cool set of custom rear endlinks as well
Custom(ish) Extended Rear Sway Bar Links Write-up - Page 3 - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
measure twice, order once from summit, jegs or your vendor of choice... you can easily do this for under $50 and get a better ride/ product on your 4R than than crappy OEM rubber ones.
while you're at it may want to consider doing the rear end link mod as well
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...sh-extended-rear-sway-bar-links-write-up.html
or post #45 has a cool set of custom rear endlinks as well
Custom(ish) Extended Rear Sway Bar Links Write-up - Page 3 - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
sonerick
New member
It SHOULD take 15 mins. Unless the bolt heads snap off due to rust, which happened to me this weekend when replacing the bushings on my rear sway bar.
zopperman
Moderator
Sucks man. I feel your pain. More PB next time. This happened on my rear sway bar brackets, still haven't dealt with it.
if it was just the front, you should ditch it anyway. :becky:
sonerick
New member
Yeah, it was a pain to drill the bolts out for sure. Already have the front removed though, so no worries with those bolts!
zopperman
Moderator
How'd you fix the rear? Just drill and tap? I'm gonna take an air hammer to the welded nut and just see if I can use a standard nut/bolt since I really don't want to tap it
Whiplash Willy
New member
What symptoms did you guys have whose swaybar bushings were bad?
sonerick
New member
It was quite the ordeal... luckily I had a spare bolt laying around that happened to be the right size, thread, pitch, etc.
First I tried this bolt extractor I had, which has a burnishing tool on one end and a reverse-threaded tip on the other end. You use the burnishing tool to drill a hole in the broken bolt then the reverse-threaded end to back the broken bolt out. So I drill the hole with the burnishing tool, heat it up with a propane torch and then use reverse-threaded tip, but that broke off inside the already broken bolt. **** me. Somehow I managed to get the broken piece out of the hole with some gentle persuasion from a chisel and hammer.
So then I found some nice sharp drill bits laying around and drilled a hole straight through the broken bolt using the previously burnished hole as a pilot hole. I didn't' have any drill bits that were large enough though, so I still had a bunch of crap in there from the old broken bolt. I tried to chase out the threads using a tap, but there's not much room to work under the truck so I was using an adjustable wrench to turn the tap. Anyways, the tap then broke off, so I had to spend some time getting that out. All the while I'm trying not to destroy the threads of the existing bolt.
Finally, I say **** it and try just threading the spare bolt into the drilled out hole to see if it would clear out the threads and it worked! I bolted everything back together and was careful not to over-torque in case I had damaged the threads too much.
If I were you, I would either go with your method and remove the welded nut completely, or just drill it out with a bit that is slightly smaller than the nut and use a new bolt to chase the threads. Do not waste time with a screw extractor! I'd even be hesitant to use a tap, although if I had access to a lift and a nice garage I might have been successful without breaking it... It's tough working on your back when its 20 degrees out!
sonerick
New member
Clunking when going over bumps a certain way. I also have 160k on her, so I figured the stock ones were probably beat.
