Swede's Build Thread...

Those tires are mean! I like the voltmeter placement too.

Did you use a write-up when you did your clutch work? I'd like to bookmark it if there's a good one available.
 
Those tires are mean! I like the voltmeter placement too.

Did you use a write-up when you did your clutch work? I'd like to bookmark it if there's a good one available.

Thanks!

I've done clutches before so I never used any write-ups at all but this one here is pretty good : 5VZ Clutch Job - TTORA Forum
The only time I actually opened up the manual was to get some torque specs. There's really nothing to technical about it just a lot of wrenching from your back. :dizzy:
 
Just finished up installing a new set of 5100 Bilstein shocks and all I can say is wow what a difference over the Tokico Trekmaster R/T's that I had been riding on over the last decade or so. Definitely a much more plusher ride than before! The road to where I live is concrete with expansion joints every 15' or so and with the Trekmasters, the ride was quite jarring and I'd also be bouncing a lot in my seat over each joint. Now they are really hardly noticable and the truck also seems more quieter as well! Definitely one of my favorite mods of late!
:clap2:
 
cool videos. ive been thinking about getting a front mounted camera like that.
Spec on it? or website?
How big of card do you have and how longs the record time?
 
cool videos. ive been thinking about getting a front mounted camera like that.
Spec on it? or website?
How big of card do you have and how longs the record time?

I use a few different cameras. The one I have mounted on the windshield is an older Drift HD 170 ( Drift Innovation - Action Cameras ). 32GB card and is usually plugged into a USB port for power though it does have a battery that'll last about 3 hours or so. Shoots 1080p at 30fps.

My other POV cam is a GoPro Hero 3 ( GoPro Official Website: The World's Most Versatile Camera ). 32 GB card and I use a few batteries for it as it sucks them down pretty good, maybe an hour of record time per battery. Shoots 1080p at 60 fps or 720p at 120fps.

I also use a Canon SX1 superzoom and Lumix DMC-ZS20 for other video and still shots.
 
For the airlift, I noticed that you didn't completely cut the bump stop to make up for the added spring lift. Have you had any issues doing that? Also did you run the air line out the top of bottom?
 
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No issues at all with the length of the bump stops. It seems to be perfect the way it is. The airline runs out the top of the coil/bump stop assembly.
 
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I like your wheels, they go really well with the chrome bumpers! You're gonna rattle the kids out of the truck with the sub right next to the third row... maybe that's your intention?
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Well the seat has been removed now as the kids have all grown out of it and I've been thinking about rearranging the cargo area to accommodate a flatter profile so we can camp out in it in the future.
 
Finished up a long put-off project this evening...

I added some 1/4" aluminium checker plate to the top of my sliders. I did this for a few reasons, but the primary one is to permanently get rid of the running boards that I put on every winter to protect the rocker panels from getting sandblasted from all the road salt and gravel that we have to deal with up north here.

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I'll get them installed next weekend when I swap out the studs and put on the Claws.
 
Stupid Imageshack deleted a bunch of my pics so I just spent the last couple of hours loading them up again.

Anyway, plans are in the works for a new rear plate bumper this year, going to have to learn how to weld I guess. Stay tuned :)
 
Just in from breaking them in and here's my impressions.

1st, believe the hype! They make a noticeable difference in braking over stock. When I pulled off the original brakes (and by original I mean that the brakes have never been done before... gotta love a manual tranny) they were in great shape still! Pads were about 1/4 to 1/3 of material left and the calipers were all working normally too. I made 10 high speed stops from 100 km/h to about 10 - 20 km/h. The first 3 or 4 stops had me smiling from ear to ear as the 4Runner stopped almost instantly with the rest of the stops getting longer and longer due to fade but man what a difference! 2nd, as is often reported, application of the brakes is a little later than normal meaning that it takes a little more pedal travel to start to feel the brakes apply. I quickly got used to this and it's not a big deal at all.

Highly recommended!

Yep, I changed out my original brake pads at 133,000 miles. I've never had a problem with my breaks but I'm doing the TBU in a few weeks because of my added weight.
 
Not much to update lately. I've been away in school finishing up my Electrical Apprenticeship for most of the year and now that that's done, time to get caught up on some maintenance on the 4Runner.

What has been neglected lately is the typical leaky valve covers, so I took care of that today...

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Covers off and looks pretty good after 250000 Km's...

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I also had a good look at my TB to see how the washer fix is holding up and I'm happy to report that it's still working perfectly!

https://youtu.be/4p2NYf-eixI

The tie rod ends seem a little sloppy to me so I'll have to get on that and the rear exhaust flange came apart so I'll have to get that welded back up.

The big project this year will be front and rear plate bumpers as my OEM ones are rusting out pretty good. I bought a welder so we'll see how I make out with that...
 
So a little update...

I replaced my UCA's with a set of the SPC brand arms. Stout product with a lot of flexibility when it comes to alignment. After some research I decided to crank my LCA's as far forward as I could to help minimize and rubbing at the pinch well and it also, as an added bonus, reduced my rubbing at the frame (rearwards from the wheel) at full lock! Sweet! I got out the string, tape and level and did my alignment and I'm just waiting now to get an accurate one done at the shop.

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