Switching oil?

C

Captain

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Just bought a 97 Runner with 235k miles. No idea on maintenance history.

My question is, since I haven't a clue if the engine has had conventional or synthetic oil, what should I start using? I've heard you can have issues when putting synthetic in a vehicle that's only run conventional. Ideally I would start using Royal Purple, but I don't want to if this engine has had almost 250k of regular oil usage.

Any thoughts on what I should do?

I bought it from a dealer, and they had an oil change done on it. (With conventional) So I have no way of knowing the vehicles oil history, unfortunately...
 
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when synthetics first came out, that was an issue, don't hear about it much anymore. but the problem was just oil leaks because of old seals. not bad for the motor if you use the right weight. the oils have become much better with seal conditioners and 'whatnot' lol.

i make the choice on synthetic based on how much i drive. synthetic 12k interval, conventional 5k interval (for me). i don't think synthetic is magic, except it maintains properties longer.

at 250k, you should consider high mileage blend. this will help with seals, lifters, valves. allegedly.
 
Synthetic is by far superior to conventional oil. That being said my 290k mile 96 4runner gets conventional and change it every 5k miles. The wifes Tacoma and my CTS-V gets synthetic and changed every 7500k miles.
 
How does the oil look now? Maybe a nice high mileage oil. I use Maxlife 10w-30 and have since 2011 without any issues.

Changing the PCV valve would be a good idea. OEM only.
 
Keep track of your miles and see how fast the oil turns dark. If it darkens really fast, like in 1000 or 2000 miles, that could be a sign that the PO didn't change it often. Change it more often at first until it stops turning dark in a short time. If it doesn't turn dark fast, the engine is more likely to have been maintained, oil-wise at least, by the PO, and you can feel more free to put the dream oil of your choice in it.
 
pluton said:
On these vehicles, OEM is best, without exception, for all engine and critical running parts. Also, OEM PCV valves are cheap.
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NAPA's are even cheaper and work fine. They fail by getting gunked up, and expensive gunks up just as fast as cheap. Been using NAPA PCVs for 19 years. Never an issue. It's just a ball in a tube, for Pete's sake.
 
Captain said:
Just bought a 97 Runner with 235k miles. No idea on maintenance history.

My question is, since I haven't a clue if the engine has had conventional or synthetic oil, what should I start using? I've heard you can have issues when putting synthetic in a vehicle that's only run conventional. Ideally I would start using Royal Purple, but I don't want to if this engine has had almost 250k of regular oil usage.

Any thoughts on what I should do?

I bought it from a dealer, and they had an oil change done on it. (With conventional) So I have no way of knowing the vehicles oil history, unfortunately...
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I picked up my 97 Ltd with about 350k on the original engine that saw only the cheapest of oil changes infrequently at best and often times not at all for long durations (inlaws owned it so I know how they treated it).

From 350k to its present mileage of 438k, I’ve run mostly Valvoline MAXlife semi synthetic 5w30 or full synthetic without any issues whatsoever. My valve covers leak no matter what oil I use be it conventional or otherwise.

This engine is a beast and I honestly don’t know how people manage to kill them aside from severely overheating them or simply running them out of oil altogether. My engine pulls hard off the line even after all these miles. Someone once said that the 3rd gens are the AK-47s of light SUVs — I tend to agree.

I personally recommend Valvoline MAXlife oil as it is reliable and has added conditioners for your seals etc. But honestly, any modern appropriately specd oil that is changed regularly – will be just fine for these engines in my unprofessional opinion. Use Amsoil if you like or good ol’ Walmart Supertech high mileage oil – just change it regularly and you’ll be golden.
 
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StreetCreeper said:
Use Amsoil if you like or good ol’ Walmart Supertech high mileage oil – just change it regularly and you’ll be golden.
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Hah... there was a time when Mobil was blending Supertech oil.. and before that I believe Conoco Philips. "Cheap" oil isn't always the cheap stuff. Then again, there's a number of sketchy private blenders who will make you anything to a price point.

So... yeah. Do what you feel best with! Personally I run Mobil 1 in all my 4-wheeled stuff, but I buy it and stockpile it when it goes on sale for 50% off.
 
DaMonkey said:
Why OEM only for a PCV valve?
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I did alot of reading on pcv valves recently and it seems that universal pcv valves are a hit or miss. OEM pcv valves are designed to work with the particular engine they are being used on. Some universal pcv's allow too much or too little pressure by. Definitely swap it out for a new one and you will see improvements in idle and performance. Amazon has oem for cheap and they also have the grommet.

Use whatever oil you want to use. Conventional will work fine.Ssynthetic will also work fine but you will probably see oil leaks. I would stick with conventional in an engine that old and that many mileage and maybe bump up to 10w-30.
 
When I got my '99 in 2015 with 260k on it, I switched from whatever my sister was running in it, to mobil 1 and never got any leaks or issues from the switch. I'm now pushing 360k.
 
I like Valvoline maxlife semi-synthetic high mileage (5W30), Walmart has it cheap.

The 99 motor that I put in my 97 was spotless when I did the swap, it wasn't leaking oil anywhere. After I swapped the motor, I put in Royal purple because I had a bunch of it on hand (was on clearance at wal mare for 10 bucks a jug).

After about 500 miles, I had an oil leak from either the oil pan or the rear main seal. What's weird is I replaced the rear main seal with an OEM one before I did the swap.

It appears that it is still leaking but slower now. I can't say for sure its because I used a full synthetic but I'll be switching back to the max life stuff in a few hundred miles. Plenty of people use full synthetic in their trucks on here without issue, even on high mileage motors.
 
I've used Mobil1 since we got our '97 (8 years ago). We bought it with 170-some thousand miles and I believe the PO was an Amsoil guy, but he didn't own it for very long.

Valve cover leakage slowly got worse over the years so I changed the oil, PCV, timing belt, etc., valve cover gaskets, etc. a year ago July. I just checked the oil over the weekend and it still looks like I put it in yesterday. Leaks nothing. I think it's got around 220k on it now.
 
TheDurk said:
NAPA's are even cheaper and work fine. They fail by getting gunked up, and expensive gunks up just as fast as cheap. Been using NAPA PCVs for 19 years. Never an issue. It's just a ball in a tube, for Pete's sake.
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I've had good luck with NAPA as well based on your recommendation years ago. I would've thought all these part stores use the same china crap, but NAPA always seems to have the better stuff.
 
T4R2014 said:
I've had good luck with NAPA as well based on your recommendation years ago. I would've thought all these part stores use the same china crap, but NAPA always seems to have the better stuff.
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Napa is always my non OEM go to for parts. I just wish they used my phone number to track warranties like other auto parts stores.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
T4R2014 said:
I've had good luck with NAPA as well based on your recommendation years ago. I would've thought all these part stores use the same china crap, but NAPA always seems to have the better stuff.
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Like many of the NAPA parts I use, those PCVs are made by Echlin, a long-time US-based supplier of aftermarket parts, and a subsidiary of Dana Corp. since 1998. So not classic Chinese junk.
 
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kevinRR said:
I've used Rotella T6 with oem filter.
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I knew someone would stir this thread up! lol

I'm about to change my oil, and iv'e had T6 in my garage waiting for two weeks because i'm not sure of the condition of my gaskets...

I believe its always had conventional oil, so I may run a 10w-30 conventional instead..
 
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