tacoma/4runner parts compatibility

sixstringsteve

New member
Hi guys. New to this forum, but not new to toyotas or 4runners. I've been a tacoma guy most my life. I've got a regular cab '97 tacoma with duals and 35's at the moment, and I want to swap most of the drivetrain over to my new (to me) 4runner.

Tacoma (cuz pics are cool):
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build thread:
'97 tacoma build: Abner


my new runner, a 1999 Highlander:

Here are some pics of my runner.


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Anyway, my plans are to swap the 35's, diffs (4.88s), and any other parts I can from the taco to the 4runner. I had a few questions.

1) are the OME front struts the same between the tacoma and the 4runner?

2) the tacoma has manual front hubs. Is it worth swapping the manual hubs over? I hear the ADD hubs have stronger CVs. I don't wheel it hard, I finesse it (though I wheel it on hard trails).

3) how about the front diff? can I just swap front diffs, or will the 4runner cv shafts not fit into the taco diff? Do the add axles fit into a non-add front diff? In other words, are the diffs exactly the same between an ADD rig and a manual hub vehicle?

4) I just replaced the lower BJs on the taco with toyota factory BJs. Are they the same part as the runner? I'd assume so, but you know what happens when you assume...

5) Will my budbuilt skid for my taco work on my runner?
 
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Every thing will swap over with exception of the rear axle. The diff housing might switch over if you have a 4 banger but if you have a v6, the carrier is too big. If you have a e-locker, the 4runner (if it doesn't already have it) can easily be retro fitted for it.

Front supension is the same, rear is way different. Dual tranfer cases might fit be may have issues with clearance for gas tank.

Manual hubs will fit.

Interior is completely different.
 
I moved every front end suspension part from my tacoma to my 4runner when it was bought back by toyota with no major hiccups. My budbuilts transfered, the belly skid will need about 4" cut off the back edge and you can bolt it to the factory cross member on the 4runner.

There were only two notable differences I encountered in my swap from a 99 tacoma to a 99 4runner.

1. The bolt pattern for the front strut top plate. The bolt pattern is rotated 60 degrees. You have two options, decompress your springs and rotate the plate, or do what I did and drill 3 new holes.

2. If you swap hubs you might do the front brakes, the brake lines are different on the tacoma vs 4runner calipers because of the 16" wheels. Again nothing major but you will need to extend the 4runner hard line to use the tacoma flex lines.
 
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Ill reply to this better when I'm at work tomorrow. I can't see shat on my phone. I can answer all your questions, because I did it. ;)
 
Thanks for the info guys, that's just what I needed.

Apart from being able to unlock the hubs when you're not in 4wd, are there any other advantages to the manual hubs?

Are the manual or auto hubs more desirable?

FWIW, I have a TRD rear axle in my taco (elocker), and an elocker in the 4runner so the thirds will swap. I've done several elocker retrofits and they're not my favorite thing to do. I lucked out in this area.
 
That's a pretty nice taco, what's to stop you from keeping that and building the runner, besides $ of course

There are three things keeping me from doing that.

1) money
2) money
3) money

I love my taco, I just need 4 doors as we're looking to start a family soon. I've had a lot of rigs and my taco is by far my favorite. Hopefully I feel that way about my new 4runner.
 
Every thing will swap over with exception of the rear axle. The diff housing might switch over if you have a 4 banger but if you have a v6, the carrier is too big. If you have a e-locker, the 4runner (if it doesn't already have it) can easily be retro fitted for it.

Front supension is the same, rear is way different. Dual tranfer cases might fit be may have issues with clearance for gas tank.

Manual hubs will fit.

Interior is completely different.

Thanks for the info. The 4runner already has a 3" OME lift in the back, so it'll match the OME coils I'm swapping in from my tacoma.
 
Ok.

Everything, suspension wise, will swap on from the Taco to the 4Runner, except for the NON-TRD rear axles. You have a TRD, which has the e-locker, so it's an 8" diff, same as the 4Runner, so you're good there.

When I did my 4Runner, I found a guy on TTORA who sold me 4.88 with ARB lockers. Put the front diff into the 4Runner, and she went right in. Haven't had any problems since I hooked her up.

The manual transfer case even bolts to the back of the 4Runner trans, as long as you have the same motor.

I'm currently running the manual hub swap, becasue I like it more. With the ADD, there is too much electrical stuff under the truck. I feel more comfortable with the manual hubs and transfer case, because it's all mechanical.

Not to mention, If you snap an ADD shaft on the trail, you better have a replacement. With the manual hubs, you can just cover the holes in the diff and hub and keep driving.

The 4Runner is awesome. You'll be amazed what she'll do for you once you get her built.
 
My runner has 285's on it right now, and I've been doing some research. I think I'll swap the thirds from the tacoma (4.88s) over to the runner and stick with 33's, rather than 35's. It sounds like 33's and 3.88s do well together.
 
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4) I just replaced the lower BJs on the taco with toyota factory BJs. Are they the same part as the runner? I'd assume so, but you know what happens when you assume...

The taco parts will work, sorta.
You will need to use taco BJs and tie rod ends together (same with 4runner). Some 4runner guys are swapping in Taco BJs and TREs BUT some are noticing that you will NOT have the same tight turning radius with these parts, it will be wider.

Stay with 4runner parts. They last 100,000 miles Plus (if you use OE parts).
 
I believe all of your questions have been answered. Regarding ADD vs manual, ADD would be the way to go. The only "positive" of manual is that if you break an axle, you can unlock and drive home (depending on where the break occurs). However, unless you're doing some extreme hard trails and/or you're not too smooth, you will be just fine on ADD. ADD's are stronger. If you break one, just swap it out. Not too hard to do. 20 min job. Just not an issue, for me at least.

Also, are those 285's or 255/85/16's? They look a little skinny, but maybe it's my monitor.
 
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I believe all of your questions have been answered. Regarding ADD vs manual, ADD would be the way to go. The only "positive" of manual is that if you break an axle, you can unlock and drive home (depending on where the break occurs). However, unless you're doing some extreme hard trails and/or you're not too smooth, you will be just fine on ADD. ADD's are stronger. If you break one, just swap it out. Not too hard to do. 20 min job. Just not an issue, for me at least.

Also, are those 285's or 255/85/16's? They look a little skinny, but maybe it's my monitor.

They're 285s.

Also, the diff in my manual-hub taco has the 4.88s. So, rather than swap the R&P into the ADD front diff, it's going to be easier to swap the entire front drivetrain to the 4Runner. Another advantage to manual hubs is the fact that there aren't any wires/vacuum lines to troubleshoot on the trail.

I wheel at least monthly. I don't plan on any crazy trails, but I do want to be able to do: Elephant Hill, Golden Spike, Hell's Revenge, those types of trails. I won't be crawling every weekend, but I do go to moab at least twice a year, and it'd be nice to be able to do some of the fun trails.
 

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