tacoma lift fit on 4runner?

C

cooljello6233

New member
so i have toytec coilovers for a front lift on my 4runner and i am tired of my cv shafts breaking. i also have the diff drop but that doesnt cut it. I dont think u can just put new taller springs on a 4runner and call it a lift because u are throwing all the other components out of wack like the steering and the cj shaft angles. A real lift kit makes sure all drive components are back to stock specs but at the same time giving u a lift. ive seen some Tacoma's with real lifts (the cv shafts were parallel with with the ground and not at a steep angle like my 4 runner) and i was wondering if this lift would fit on the 4runener (just a front lift) i think its a 4inch procomp or something.
can someone help me thanks!
 
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The only way to acheive this is by installing a ProComp 6" lift kit that basically puts in a bracket to give you the lift and keep your CV's from having crazy angles. The down side to having that ProComp bracket installed is that you get the lift but you don't get the ground clearance you'd hope for. It's a trade off.

Personally for me, I don't like them.
 
animal said:
the only way to acheive this is by installing a procomp 6" lift kit that basically puts in a bracket to give you the lift and keep your cv's from having crazy angles. The down side to having that procomp bracket installed is that you get the lift but you don't get the ground clearance you'd hope for. It's a trade off.

Personally for me, i don't like them.
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x2.........
 
the taco lift and others like it that you are referring to will work very well on our 4runners and although some say you won't get ground clearance consider if you were running a solid front axle, the pumpkin stays low straight in line with the hubs, how is that any different than the type of lift you want for your 4runner??

Don't let peoples opinions deter you, the little bit of clearance you get from destroying your cv's will be unnoticed if you pick the right lines while wheeling!
 
Your right... with a Solid Axle up front, itwill limit your clearance. But you will have the ability to run larger tires without wearing down your front Diff and other moving parts that would cause a large amount of stress to move all of that if you stick with an IFS set up. There are draw backs to any lift installed on our trucks. You just have to research and go with what suits your needs best.
 
That olive drab 4runner is what im talkin about its just i thought there was some tacoma lift that was a 4incher but maybe im wrong. i think 6 is too high for me plus i woulnd know how to lift the rear that high
 
i'm sorry but the drop bracket lifts are not "real lifts". yes they lift it but the front crossmember is a rock magnet and you don't gain any ground clearance there.

I don't know what you are doing but i am running with like 4 inches of lift up front and have never broken a CV
 
The "drop CV" lifts are no good for wheelin. They do put your CVs at a straighter angle, but it takes your ground clearance back to about stock and leaves you with a big angular shelf to catch on the rocks. I have seen people snap CVs with these lifts too. In fact at the last TTORA takeover, one guy who had a drop CV lift broke a CV everyday of the event and missed out on most of the good wheelin.

The drop kits are also ultra expensive and no one sells just the front so you would have to get 1/2 of the tacoma lift used or buy the whole tacoma lift and try to sell off the rear leaf springs. All in all, if you do an IFS lift right, it works just fine and a new set of CVs shouldn't have any issues at a ~3" lift.

What is your exact lift set up now? Your sig says "ome coils and billstien shocks in back with spacers up front". Are you running Billy shocks in the front too? What OME coils do you have? Are the fronts adjustable? How big of a spacers do you have up front? If you are running say, OME 882s on shocks that are adjusted higher than stock, then you're already pushing the limit of your CVs. Add in top spacers and that's that even more of a CV killer.

We can help you get the right set up without dropping tons of cash on a crappy Fabtech or ProCrap lift. My guess is you are trying to get more than 3" of lift in the front.
 
I would think he is talking about the Boots. The OEM CV's are pretty bomb proof. I've only seen a couple that blow up on the trail since I've been OffRoading. Sounds like he needs to upgrade his Inner/Outter Boots with proper long travel boots.

If he's using aftermarket CV's (Kragen, O'Reily's, AutoZone, PepBoys, etc.) then that's the problem right there. There's a reason they have a LifeTime Warranty.
 
I have the same setup and same boot problems, yet I haven't found anything yet (link) for a proper long travel inner CV boot. I saw a post earlier for the outer but no inner. Suggestions?
 
yall are right i am breaking my cv boots im sry for not clarifying that and i keep getting my whole new cvs from auto zone (which is free bc of lifetime warranty) but im sick of replacing them
 
cooljello6233 said:
yall are right i am breaking my cv boots im sry for not clarifying that and i keep getting my whole new cvs from auto zone (which is free bc of lifetime warranty) but im sick of replacing them
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What I have done is gone around to different Forums and bought used OEM CV's and repair them with fresh grease and LT Boots. If you still have your OEM ones just repair them and use the VatoZone ones as trail spares or sell them.
 
Or lower your adjustable coil overs to 3" since the majority would agree that is the limit without modified CV axles.
 
The auto parts store CV's use a really cheap boot. I have had people call and say that they have broken a boot within 300 miles of replacing them. the OEM ones are really the way to go and they use a much higher quality boot and joint. basically what i saying is, its not the lift that is causing the boots to break.
 
ok well i am goin to purchase some oem cv's since they are higher quality and wont break as easily. is it hard to put aftermarket boots on them?
 
cooljello6233 said:
ok well i am goin to purchase some oem cv's since they are higher quality and wont break as easily. is it hard to put aftermarket boots on them?
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It's a messy job, but should take around 45min per axle to grease'em up and replace the boots. Remember to have lots and lots of shop rags around.
 
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